Dr. Varney
Pimp
What format do I need to make a CD that will play on an ordinary CD player and what software would I use?
Dr. V
Dr. V
The Wav was 24bit though. What difference will this make?
Incidentally, it sounds awful. It was just a test, to see how this mix would sound on a hi-fi system. Way too much bass, which it didn't have when I mixed it.
Somehow, I've got to try and compensate for this when I come to master it. It sounds totally different on the amp and speakers I'm using with my DAW.
Chances are, it did have that much bass when you mixed it. You can't mix what you can't hear properly.Incidentally, it sounds awful. Way too much bass, which it didn't have when I mixed it.
There's your answer. The importance of room treatment cannot be over-emphasized, yet it remains the one thing that too many people new to this will ignore.Room treatment (broadband - Not foam), proper calibration, etc. No shortcuts on those.
The difference is that a CD player won't play a 24 bit wav. To burn an audio CD, you need 16 bit Wav. files. Didn't we go though all this already in another thread????
Backing up - Keep in mind that many consumer programs (as well-intended as they are) do NOT create compliant discs. iTunes is one of the bigger problematic programs. It might play, it might not, it is NOT to be used as a replication master by any means.
What's the room got to do with it?
Only up to a point, RAMI. I made the CD off a 24bit WAV and it worked fine. If it will only accept 16bit, then the computer must have converted it, somehow.
Dr. V
ROFL!!! Almost everything. And I'm not exaggerating for effect. You don't have to like it, but it's truth.
It's like someone saying "I want to lose weight and get in shape, but I have too many other things to worry about, so I'm not willing to change my eating habits or do any exercise". OK, that's fine, that's your business, but don't expect to get anywhere near the results you're hoping for. It's that simple.
(Of course, you can always try to "compensate" by wearing baggy clothes with vertical lines. )
"Compensating" by turning up or down your bass sounds like an easy solution, but it's a recipe for even worse disaster, like it or not.
I know none of this is what you want to believe, but I'm trying to help you. And one day you'll be telling other newbies the same thing I'm telling you. I guarantee it.
Without question, the most effective absorber for midrange and high frequencies is rigid fiberglass. Owens-Corning 703 and 705, or equivalents from other manufacturers, are the standard absorbing materials used by professional studio designers. Besides being extremely absorbent they are also fireproof and, when applied to a wall, can even retard the spread of heat. Rigid fiberglass is available in panels 2 by 4 feet and in thicknesses ranging from 1 to 4 inches. Larger sizes are available, but 2 by 4 is more convenient for most studio applications, and can be shipped more economically. As with all absorbent materials, the thicker it is, the lower in frequency it will absorb to. That is, 703 fiberglass one inch thick absorbs reasonably well down to 500 Hz. When two inches thick, the same material is equally absorbent down to 250 Hz. See the sidebar Measuring Absorption for more information about how these measurements are made.
Having said that, I know people who do nothing to their rooms and get very good results.
I know it's been pounded in, but it can never be pounded in enough.What's the room got to do with it? Can't I just turn the bass up on the monitors? For me, it's a case of getting a monitor set up that more closely resembles the hi-fi system in my lounge.