Just sharing...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kingofpain678
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Kingofpain678

Kingofpain678

Returned from the dead
I found THIS site and I thought I should share it here. It has some DIY yourself pedal Ideas and some mod information for factory pedals.

I'm personally gonna make this within the next few days using a wooden enclosure and the few parts mentioned. I'm gonna avoid using the LED's because I don't really care much if they are there or not and it will shave a few pennies off of my final build price.
 
OK, but by the time you stuff the inside with copper tape, you'll wish you'd used metal! :p
 
Possibly.

But laziness is of the utmost importance in this project. Wood is much faster and easier to work than metal.
 
Kingofpain678 said:
Possibly.

But laziness is of the utmost importance in this project. Wood is much faster and easier to work than metal.
Click to expand...

Steel yes, aluminum no. This is why most stompboxes are built into diecast aluminum cases. Doesn't take any more time to drill a hole in aluminum than wood if you have the proper tools (drill press, step bit). And there is zero box fabrication time, zero time spend on shielding.

Now, if you're using spade bits and a hand drill, probably you don't want to try that with aluminum . . . :eek:
 
If you have to drill some holes in metal for jacks etc... do yourself a favor and get yourself a step drill bit.

Huh?
this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900026/

I bought an Irwin for $55 and would never have bought one unless I'd needed it. Now that I have it, I've found a lot of uses for it and it is the cat's meow for drilling holes in metal - no distortion and perfectly round holes.

I saw them at Checker Auto for something like $10 but who knows the quality.
 
I do a bit of racking/building projects in rack cases and the best tools I've come across include an Autopunch, Graph paper (for lining up/laying out my panels), and my drill press.

I typically layout my holes on the graph paper, then tape that to the panel, then use the auto center punch to make guide marks. Remove the paper, then set it up on the drill press with some Locking C Clamps, then drill an 1/8" pilot hole. Follow that with the larger bit, then clean it up with a file or burr removal tool.

OK, I guess there are a few tools involved, but I have a Harbor Freight store down the street. Cheap chinese crap for the most part, but they have a variety!

I think a wood box would look cool, but be rather susceptible to interference, as mentioned. If you're going to go to the trouble of putting something together, why not build it to work properly and last a long time?
 
I have the 1/8"-1/2" and 1/2"-1" bits. The latter is needed for XLR holes, and I like the 1/8" starting size as that reduces the size of the required twist bit for a pilot--I start with a punch, then a 3/16", then 1/8", then the step bits. Usually I can get within 0.5mm tolerance on the hole center location. In aluminum. I hate working on steel enough that I don't do it often.
 
mshilarious said:
I have the 1/8"-1/2" and 1/2"-1" bits. The latter is needed for XLR holes, and I like the 1/8" starting size as that reduces the size of the required twist bit for a pilot--I start with a punch, then a 3/16", then 1/8", then the step bits. Usually I can get within 0.5mm tolerance on the hole center location. In aluminum. I hate working on steel enough that I don't do it often.
Click to expand...

Steel is a pain, unfortunately most of the cases I work on have an aluminum face plate, but steel for the rest of the enclosure, where the XLRs go! It is a pain, but a little oil on the bit helps (I haven't found a true cutting fluid at Harbor Freight, but motor oil works ok, just a pain to clean up!)
 
mshilarious said:
I have the 1/8"-1/2" and 1/2"-1" bits. The latter is needed for XLR holes, and I like the 1/8" starting size as that reduces the size of the required twist bit for a pilot--I start with a punch, then a 3/16", then 1/8", then the step bits. Usually I can get within 0.5mm tolerance on the hole center location. In aluminum. I hate working on steel enough that I don't do it often.
Click to expand...

Steel is a pain, unfortunately most of the cases I work on have an aluminum face plate, but steel for the rest of the enclosure, where the XLRs go! It is a pain, but a little oil on the bit helps (I haven't found a true cutting fluid at Harbor Freight, but motor oil works ok, just a pain to clean up!)

I think you meant 1/8, then 3/16th, or 1/16th, then 1/8th?
 
johnsuitcase said:
If you're going to go to the trouble of putting something together, why not build it to work properly and last a long time?
Click to expand...

because it's only an a/b box that is only gonna take me 5$ (if that) to make.
once I finish it and I find that I really like it and get alot of use out of it I'll go back and build something respectable.

I might go back and make an aluminum enclosure and put the LED's in it.
 
Good tip on the graph paper johnsuitcase.

I often put masking tape on things, do the layout and make dimples with a punch, then tape off the tape.

johnsuitcase said:
... I have a Harbor Freight store down the street...
Click to expand...

That must be funny, at least you can take back the stuff instead of sending back. I've got good and bad stuff from them, mostly good.

this ran on Saturday:
DENNIS.jpg
 
johnsuitcase said:
Steel is a pain, unfortunately most of the cases I work on have an aluminum face plate, but steel for the rest of the enclosure, where the XLRs go! It is a pain, but a little oil on the bit helps (I haven't found a true cutting fluid at Harbor Freight, but motor oil works ok, just a pain to clean up!)

I think you meant 1/8, then 3/16th, or 1/16th, then 1/8th?
Click to expand...

No, I really meant 3/32"! I think 1/8" is too big for the pilot, it can wander too much.
 
dintymoore said:
Good tip on the graph paper johnsuitcase.

I often put masking tape on things, do the layout and make dimples with a punch, then tape off the tape.
Click to expand...

I leave the tape on while drilling, keeps the face from getting scratched by shavings. Gums up the bits, but oh well, lacquer thinner fixes that.
 
The problem with wooden enclosures is that the wood is usually too thick to mount Pots, switches or Jacks , most pots,switches,jacks have about a max of 1/4in of threading and with 1/4 in plywood you won"t be able to get the Nuts on the threads , one solution is to counter sink an area the size of the switch/pot were you are going to mount the component so that the wood is thinner there but it also makes the wood a lot weaker , ...

You can get a small plastic enclosure at Raidio Shack for a couple bucks that will be a lot easier to work with and cheaper in the long run and if you use Shielded cable you shouldn"t have problems with interferance ....


Cheers
 
Minion said:
You can get a small plastic enclosure at Raidio Shack for a couple bucks that will be a lot easier to work with and cheaper in the long run and if you use Shielded cable you shouldn"t have problems with interferance ....
Click to expand...

I'll have to check that out, thanks for the heads up minion :D
 
Minion said:
... You can get a small plastic enclosure at Raidio Shack for a couple bucks that will be a lot easier to work with and cheaper in the long run and if you use Shielded cable you shouldn"t have problems with interferance ...
Click to expand...

Who hasn't used Tupperware at some point. Snaps open and try to break it. I still use stuff I made in pill containers and 35mm film canisters.
I never had any problem using wooden or plastic electronic project cases. I actually prefer wood as ghastly as that would seem to some.

During the Commodore 64 Era, all my stuff was mounted in Samsonite suitcases and it always had the Unabomber look.
 
dintymoore said:
Who hasn't used Tupperware at some point. Snaps open and try to break it. I still use stuff I made in pill containers and 35mm film canisters.
I never had any problem using wooden or plastic electronic project cases. I actually prefer wood as ghastly as that would seem to some.

During the Commodore 64 Era, all my stuff was mounted in Samsonite suitcases and it always had the Unabomber look.
Click to expand...

Pictures?

I have a reamp box that I built into a metal candy box for Almond Roca!

(I still think metal is best for anything that might be passing audio singals, but taht 's jsut me...)
 
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