Jackson Professional King V won't stay in tune...

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VESSEL2020

VESSEL2020

Somewhere in Space
My guitarist bought another Jackson Professional King V off junkbay,
and it is in excellent condition. There are no signs of any dings or cracks.

He waited to find this exact guitar, because it is exactly the same as the one he had for years,..but unfortunately his "ex-wife" pulled a "Pete Townsend" guitar smash with it (the old one), in an argument.

Well, what I'm tryin' to find out is...

Does anyone know how to turn / tune the "truss rod" or whatever it's called, to straighten the neck out? Do you turn it to the right or the left?

The new V will not stay in tune...and I'm not a professional, or anything close to it, but I've worked on a couple guitars and had some success in the past..

So,..I'm thinkin' the springs in the back may need tightening, or the tremolo system may need adjustment. My guitarist thinks it's the rod in the kneck.
I don't see any curve in the neck at all...so, I don't think it's the rod.

One of his other guitars, had this same problem...but I fixed it by, tightening the springs in the back, and lowering the tremolo system. Now that guitar stays in tune.

Anyone have any suggestions? The guitar still has a new smell to it, as the original owner has taken very good care of it and almost never even used it. It spent most of it's life in the case.

I know this is kinda hard to evaluate, without the guitar in front of you,..but anyone have a clue as of why it might not stay in tune?
 
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Are there no "guitar wizards" out there?

Just like to get a couple opinions from others who might have had a similar problem.
 
Suggestions:
Replace the tuning keys if they slip
Tighten the springs
Lubricate the nut
Block the trem
 
Don't mess with the truss rod! The tremolo and the nut are the likely culprits.
 
Take it to a tech, see if he'll let you watch a set-up. Your proposed solutions are very off-base.
 
Thanks,...That's the kinda feedback I was lookin' for.
 
Don't bother with the truss rod if the neck is straight. All it will do is bow the neck.

If it has a locking trem system, you need to make sure the locking nut is actually locking the strings at the nut. You should also balance the spring tension so that the bridge is floating flat.

If it doesn't have a trem system, make sure the strings aren't binding in the nut or the saddles of the bridge. If they are, take it to a tech because he will have the tools and expertise to fix the problem.

Also make sure the strings aren't binding up in the bridge somewhere. Actual floyd bridges had a clamping mechanism, some of the knock-offs have the string feeding through it with the ball of the string holding it in. The string path should not have anything that will catch on the string as it moves through it. If the strings are binding in the bridge or nut, take it to a tech. He will have the proper tools to fix that.

If it has a bolt on neck, make sure the neck isn't shifting around in the joint.

Of course the most obvious thing is to stretch your strings.
 
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If it has a locking trem system, you need to make sure the locking nut is actually locking the strings at the nut. You should also balance the spring tension so that the bridge is floating flat.

Pardon the nitpick, but if the bridge is floating, the tension is what it is for a particular gauge set of strings. You can adjust the spring rest position, but but not the tension.
 
Pardon the nitpick, but if the bridge is floating, the tension is what it is for a particular gauge set of strings. You can adjust the spring rest position, but but not the tension.
That's what I meant by balancing the tension of the springs. I should have said balancing the spring/string tension so the bridge rests flat.
 
It has the higher end Floyd Rose.

The locking nut is secure.

The little clamping block in the tremolo system is not impared by anything.

I'm not gonna mess with the truss rod.

Strings were stretched

I'm about to take the back off, and take a look at the springs.

It seems as if the tremolo system is NOT laying flat.
 
It seems as if the tremolo system is NOT laying flat.

1] Use something like a popsicle stick to prop up the back of the tremolo so it sits in a flat position.
2]Then tune the strings.
3] adjust the spring tension until the stick falls out.
4] re-tune the strings.
 
I'm about to take the back off, and take a look at the springs.

It's not the springs. Setting the spring rest position so the the bridge is flat is a good idea (you'll need to check your intonation after you change that), but it won't affect whether the guitar stays in tune or not. Going to heavier gauge strings might help.
 
It depends on how 'not flat' it is. If it's up too far, it will effect the intonation because the strings are probably too high as a result. Also, because there isn't enough spring tension against the strings, it makes it easy to pull the strings out of tune while you are playing.
 
1] Use something like a popsicle stick to prop up the back of the tremolo so it sits in a flat position.
2]Then tune the strings.
3] adjust the spring tension until the stick falls out.
4] re-tune the strings.

Gonna try that
 
It depends on how 'not flat' it is. If it's up too far, it will effect the intonation because the strings are probably too high as a result. Also, because there isn't enough spring tension against the strings, it makes it easy to pull the strings out of tune while you are playing.
Maybe it's just a semantic point, but you do know that (for example) as long as the bridge remains floating, tightening or loosening the claw screws on a Strat bridge assembly doesn't change the tension in the springs except for temporarily (until you tune the guitar), right?

The reason I perhaps belabor the point is that I often see incorrect references to "changing the spring tension" on a floating bridge assembly. The tension in the springs is determined by the tension in the strings, not the rest position of the assembly (which is what you are changing by tightening the claw screws on a Strat).

Changing the rest position of the bridge assembly does affect intonation significantly.
 
Changing the rest position of the bridge assembly does affect intonation significantly.

Just got done doin' that.

Didn't mess with the springs yet.

On my way to the music store to get a couple new packs of strings.

I'll post the result after I'm done tuning. ( Hopefully it'll stay in tune )
 
Maybe it's just a semantic point, but you do know that (for example) as long as the bridge remains floating, tightening or loosening the claw screws on a Strat bridge assembly doesn't change the tension in the springs except for temporarily (until you tune the guitar), right?
I'm not explaining myself very well. :( You and I are on the same page.

Anyway, make sure the knife edge is seated in the posts correctly. That could keep it from returning to the same position.
 
...

Make sure the tuning pegs, keys, machines (whatever you want to call them) are tightly mounted and cinched down in the headstock.:spank::eek:;)
 
Make sure the tuning pegs, keys, machines (whatever you want to call them) are tightly mounted and cinched down in the headstock.:spank::eek:;)

Thanx Dave! Yup,..That was one of the first things I did,..and yeah, They were loose!

It seems as if someone bought this guitar quite some time ago, and played it a couple times, then put it back in it's case (which is a very rare Charvel/Jackson case)...to sleep for a very loooooong time!
 
(which is a very rare Charvel/Jackson case)

Is it the tweed and brown one like this?

80.jpg
 
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