intermittent amp drop out

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nate_dennis

nate_dennis

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My newly acquired Hot Rod Deluxe is showing signs of its age. I'm a bit frusrated by this fact. Anyway, every now and then all guitar signal goes out and the amp produces loud pops, buzzes, and just noise. I can turn it off, let it chill for a few seconds, turn it back on and it's golden. Can anyone give me any ideas whats causing it? (My initial thought is maybe tubes going out, but I'm just guessing.) Thanks.
 
Cold solder joints failing. $50 fix for a tech.


lou
 
hmmmmm. Any idea where that would be? Is it something that an electronically adept friend could help with? Thank you.
 
It's a pretty common thing. I'm not familiar with that amp but Lt.Bob is. Ask him for specifics. I don't touch my amps beyond changing tubes and to be honest I haven't even done that in years. The tube amps I own now I haven't had long enough to burn 'em down.


lou
 
My newly acquired Hot Rod Deluxe is showing signs of its age. I'm a bit frusrated by this fact. Anyway, every now and then all guitar signal goes out and the amp produces loud pops, buzzes, and just noise. I can turn it off, let it chill for a few seconds, turn it back on and it's golden. Can anyone give me any ideas whats causing it? (My initial thought is maybe tubes going out, but I'm just guessing.) Thanks.
I already told ya' what that is in the earlier thread about you trading for the amp.
As Lou said ..... it's bad solder joints. Sorry ....... it is pretty common with that series of amps.

It can be in two main places on that amp ..... it could simply be the surface mounted jacks ....... but more likely it's the ribbon connectors that run from the preamp section to the power amp section.

All that you need to do is reheat the solder joints ..... maybe add a tiny bit of solder to them to get it to flow properly. TINY I said! :mad:
Try the jacks first ..... if that fixes it great.

If not ....... then you'll have to drop the preamp section to get to the joints for the ribbon connectors because they're on the back of the preamp board and where they join the power section board is hidden behind the preamp board.

You'll have to pull all the knobs ..... remove all the nuts that hold the pots and jacks in place and drop that board down out of the chassis. Then the board will be hanging from the ribbon cables and you'll be able to get to the joints of those cables.

In my DeVille there's 4 of them if I remember correctly ...... 3 eight conductor ribbons and one 4 conductor. Maybe there's only 2-eight conductors ..... I haven't opened mine in about 6 years because I got tired of fixing it and after fixing it the third time I just replaced all the ribbons with individual wires.

Anyway ..... reheat all those joints ...... put it back together and it should be fine 'till the next time it does it.

Put the amp up on something so you can sit comfortably while you do it ........... first time through it's gonna take several hours. Later on you'll get quicker at it.
Anyone that's adept at electronics can do this ..... if you've never soldered anything I wouldn't try it but it's a pretty simple fix ....... the hardest part is pulling all those knobs and nuts and then putting it all back.
 
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So it might be more than $50 for a tech to do it. :p

I have three first series Vox Valvetronix and all three of them had the same problem - it's well known with those. Three different guys fixed 'em and it was $40 - $45 - and $50. The beauty of the Vox fix is that they stay fixed. ;)


lou
 
I already told ya' what that is in the earlier thread about you trading for the amp.
As Lou said ..... it's bad solder joints. Sorry ....... it is pretty common with that series of amps.
Sorry. I must have missed that part.

It can be in two main places on that amp ..... it could simply be the surface mounted jacks ....... but more likely it's the ribbon connectors that run from the preamp section to the power amp section.
So if it's the surface mounted jacks it would still be the solder joint? Or just a dirty/shoddy jack? (Is my newness to amp maint. showing yet?) The last time this happened I put it back in standby and the sound continued till I powered it all the way down. I don't know if that helps identify the location of the bad joint.

Thank you all so much for the help.

Nate
 
Modern PCB manufacturing uses a system/method where all the bits are stuck on the board with glue or something and then the whole board is "soldered" in one go. (My knowledge here is limited but that's the idea.) QC is critical to get every single joint good and permanent. Failures show up down the line with heat cycles. The joint cracks and as it heats up contact is lost. As ElTee says the Fender issue is known and occurs in one or two places. A tech will know this and probably just hit 'em all. I would think they should stay fixed but I imagine a lot of that will go down to the construction. As I said the Voxes stay fixed. Fenders may not.


lou
 
Sorry. I must have missed that part.
no sorry needed ... I was just reminding you of it. It's a predictable prob with these amps. They don't ALL do it apparently but it's a common issue.
So if it's the surface mounted jacks it would still be the solder joint? Or just a dirty/shoddy jack? (Is my newness to amp maint. showing yet?) The last time this happened I put it back in standby and the sound continued till I powered it all the way down. I don't know if that helps identify the location of the bad joint.

Thank you all so much for the help.

Nate
Yes ..... the solder joints where the jack is soldered to the circuit board.
If the sound continued once the amp was in standby long enough to where it should have gone silent, then I'm gonna think that it's gonna be those ribbon connectors and their solder joints.
But, if I remember correctly .... the joints for the jacks are right there, easy to get to once you pull the back off so you may as well just try them first.

Hate to tell you though, my money's on the ribbons.
 
Well, at least now it's diagnosed. I'll see what I can get done on it. Thanks a lot. I really do appreciate it.
 
Modern PCB manufacturing uses a system/method where all the bits are stuck on the board with glue or something and then the whole board is "soldered" in one go. (My knowledge here is limited but that's the idea.) QC is critical to get every single joint good and permanent. Failures show up down the line with heat cycles. The joint cracks and as it heats up contact is lost. As ElTee says the Fender issue is known and occurs in one or two places. A tech will know this and probably just hit 'em all. I would think they should stay fixed but I imagine a lot of that will go down to the construction. As I said the Voxes stay fixed. Fenders may not.


lou
another thing is vibration and flexing. A jack gets plugged into and the plug removed a lot which flexes that joint. And those ribbon cables they use are super stiff so the weight of the cable continuously flexes those joints eventually fracturing them. My deville never did stay fixed more than around 6-8 months until I got rid of the ribbons.
But once again, I gig more than nate's going to so I imagine it'll stay fixed as long as he doesn't bang it around TOO much.
 
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