I'm building a new guitar

I don't mask when grain filling because I like to get the filler into every possible pore and that includes those right up and into the binding channel.
 
I was careful to reveal just a little of the binding so everything would fill. I don't the the subsequent coats will be as messy. I knew I wouldn't touch it for about twenty hours, so I piled it on pretty well. My scraper's are sharp, and I've got fresh abrasives. We'll see how this goes.

I just stepped in for some lunch. I've got 6 more doors to do to finish the job. I'm free to work on guitars after that.

I went to my wood supplier yesterday. Someone had come in and bought all of the African mahogany, but I did pick up a magnificent piece of figure maple. I got enough for one top, but I'll probably go back tomorrow and get the rest of the piece. I'm hoping that it's still there.

Now that this one's in the finish stage, it's time to start another. I've got a figured maple neck blank that's only big enough to do a bolt-on so I'm thinking of doing a Mustang shaped, 25.5, single pickup, single knob. I want to use a modified tele bridge pickup mounted at the neck. I have everything sitting around to do this one except for tuners, and some white plastic.
 
I've been busy working for a living these last few days, but I did have time to experiment with the finish, and gain enough confidence to proceed. It didn't mix well at all with straight alcohol. When I tried blending it by hand it seemed blotchy. By far the best results I got were with an airbrush. I like that the dye's don't dry out in the gun, and cleanup's easy. I'll have to get a better picture tomorrow after I get some sealer on it. My attempt at a Honeyburst.

 
Here it is after a little touch-up, out in the daylight, with a wet coat of sealer on it for a better idea of the color. This being my first attempt with the aniline's was a little nerve wracking, but I came out of it with a new gained confidence (Thanks muttley), and many ideas about where to go from here. This is not expensive at all. The dye kit I purchased for $13 has enough material to do several guitars in any color you can dream up.


And again a sexy pose laying on my sometimes wobbly, usually unstable workbench that's on casters. The sealer dries to a flat finish.
 
Soley observations and in no way meant to be critical.

It does look airbrushed. with any spray gun you get a spotted graduation. When you tried to rub them on and it got what you described as blotchy, what prep did you do? Did you wet the surface first? Both those will give you more time to blend the colours... You need to prep down to maybe 1000grit minimum and wetting the surface with alcohol or water depending what you cut the dye with slows down the "bite"

If I was you now I would maybe try and push the burst in a bit around the waist. It looks a little bit shallow there. A traditional burst is egg shaped to some degree if you can picture that. The graduation does not follow the waist but runs a line in from there to the neck... I aim for the corners of the neck pickup route.

As I said please dont take this as criticism. It's not meant to be. I'll leave that to some other members that have shown up here lately...;)
 
I'm not offended at all. I value your opinion, and appreciate your help. As with using the aniline's, I'm an absolute beginner at much of this. I can build cabinets, and do door and casework like a fucking Ninja, but making guitar's is a different skill set. I'm sure I could struggle on without critique, but I wouldn't learn as much.

I'll continue to experiment with the dye's. This is just my first go at this, but I'm not at all discouraged. I've got some good practical experience with it now, and I'm looking forward to the next time.
 
muttley said:
If I was you now I would maybe try and push the burst in a bit around the waist.
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I held back there on purpose. I wanted some asymmetry, and to keep more of the yellow towards the front. Sometimes I have difficulty in knowing when to stop.
 
JCH said:
I'm not offended at all. I value your opinion, and appreciate your help. As with using the aniline's, I'm an absolute beginner at much of this. I can build cabinets, and do door and casework like a fucking Ninja, but making guitar's is a different skill set. I'm sure I could struggle on without critique, but I wouldn't learn as much.

I'll continue to experiment with the dye's. This is just my first go at this, but I'm not at all discouraged. I've got some good practical experience with it now, and I'm looking forward to the next time.
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Next time try washing the work with whatever solvent (water alcohol) you are using as a carrier. That will allow you to do two things. Work longer and blend slower. It will also stop the stain from biting and going blotchy. I also found that if I get it going blotchy then I can cut the colours even thinner. Every bit of timber is different though and some are a pig to get right. Sometimes you just have to accept that it is what it is.

Also remember that what can look pretty rough in the white will look much better when it is clear coated. I always evaluate the look when the work is fully wet cos thats what is going to be there when the clear goes on..

A good hand rubbed sunburst is a thing to behold and you WILL learn to accept no less...:D

It's looking good though but move that waist in a bit...;)
 
I really can't wait to do this again. I need to devote some time to practicing when I'm not trying to complete a project. My OCD is hard to reign-in at times. I'm happy with the way it is. I didn't try to do a uniform, perfectly symmetrical pattern.

I know what you mean about "looking like it was airbrushed". I'll get better at this, don't worry.
 
JCH said:
I really can't wait to do this again. I need to devote some time to practicing when I'm not trying to complete a project. My OCD is hard to reign-in at times. I'm happy with the way it is. I didn't try to do a uniform, perfectly symmetrical pattern.

I know what you mean about "looking like it was airbrushed". I'll get better at this, don't worry.
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It looks great.. don't sweat it.. It's just our sawdust filled eyes....;)

What are you planning on clear coating with?
 
muttley600 said:
It looks great.. don't sweat it.. It's just our sawdust filled eyes....;)

What are you planning on clear coating with?
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The last couple of times I've clearcoated has been with this DPC eCatalog It's easy to work with, super clear, and polishes quickly. I've never used it over natural wood, only solid colors. I bought some of the Behlen components for this. I picked it up from a local supplier, but it's the same that stewmac sells. I got a quart of each; vinyl nitro sealer, and stringed instrument lacquer. I also got a half pound of blonde shellac while there, so I have options. We'll see how the lacquer samples do...
 
Did you use the aerosol cans or a spray system?

I used Behlen's nitro in aerosol cans on my first project. I kept having problems with it bubbling the paint underneath. :( Whatta dumbass I can be sometimes; the paint wasn't lacquer. :eek: Doh!! I thought I had bought a lacquer paint for the sunburst. Eventually, I will strip it back and repaint with lacquer and then coat with the Behlen's products.

Where I didn't use paint, I used Behlen's sealer then the nitro stuff. I left the grain open and it came out pretty cool.
 
Chili said:
Did you use the aerosol cans or a spray system?
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I'm using a spray gun, but I also bought a can of the aerosol sealer for spot stuff. The jury's still out, but it seems ok. The like sealer. It builds quick, and sands clean. So far , so good.
 
JCH said:
I'm using a spray gun
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Oh good. would you mind sharing with me what you use and where? Like do you have a booth setup or do you do it out in the open?

I have a compressor and am thinking of buying a spray gun.
 
Chili said:
Oh good. would you mind sharing with me what you use and where? Like do you have a booth setup or do you do it out in the open?

I have a compressor and am thinking of buying a spray gun.
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I've got a harbor freight spray gun. One of these>Gravity Feed Spray Gun - 20 Oz. HVLP You can't beat them for the price. The one I have is a few years old. I've painted a couple of cars, and M/C's, and a bunch of other stuff with it. I should pick up a new one while they're cheap.
 
If you don't have a decent spray booth I would do it outside with a curtain around the work area. Nitro can be harmful and I know of two people that have nearly killed themselves doing it half assed.

If you get a decent HVLP gun with a good tip you would be good. You would ideally want an oil trap in the line too. Not an expensive addition. Some of the brushing lacquers are good if you dont want to go that route and nitro can be pulled over by hand to do the main bulk of the leveling if you go that route.

When shooting ove existing paint or lacquer you always want to test the bond on a hidden area and I would normally use a lean barrier coat to avoid reactions between the two like you describe. That would normally be a few coats of shellac which stick to anything..
 
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