How to hang those acoustic panels that I built ?

S

Soulgolem

Member
Hi guys, I just finished building Roxul acoustic panels (wood frames with rockboard 40 inside wrapped inside textile), I now want to hang them in some places (built 15 of them).

Only thing is that I don't know how to go about this (hanging them). 6 will go on walls, 2 on the ceilling, 3 in upper ceilling/wall corners (in diagonal). Most of them are 2x4 rectangles, some are thicker depending where they'll go, kinda did my research on placement.

Any ideas on how I can do this easily ?
 
The best would be to see pictures of how you guys hung yours, I know a lot of people here built similar things but when I look at your studio pictures, I don't see the science behind the panels that's holding them up there.
 
Go to any hardware store or crafts store --- you can get heavy wire and drywall bolts (that go into plastic wall plugs) for hanging heavy pictures and mirrors.

Same thing....
 
I wanted to keep mine movable so I used eye bolts in the walls (smaller ones on the backs of framed panels) and mason's twine to hang them. Pretty simple and easy to rearrange them if I need to.
 
I was trying to come up with something, but then just stooped for the simple, Brass Plated Round Glass Plates. You see them, and the screws, but no-one really notices. It's the easiest way imo.
 
I think this would depend on whether or not the room was built with isolation in mind(RC or other decoupling), as care must be taken when penetrating and sealing the drywall for iso type construction. OR, shorting out the decoupling via a fastener. If this is just standard residential construction, there are lots of ways.

Is there a panel on the back of these "frames"? If so, use a "hook cleat" for the wall units. If not, probably use "picture frame" wire, although I think that is a terrible way to hang these types of frames. This is one of those "not thinking ahead" type projects I see all the time here. Post fabrication solutions usually are bunk. Had you thought ahead, you could have "built in" the solution. If there is NO panel, then your solutions are limited to hardware store "after the fact" crap hardware, that at best is usually a pain in the ass, and or unsightly. :rolleyes:

Anyway, if the back of these units is "open", or exposed fabric, the frame rear edge is the only place to fasten hardware

. Maybe two of these per frame would be your best bet. At least on the walls.
fitZ
 

Attachments

  • hwr_sawtoothdemo1LG.jpg
    hwr_sawtoothdemo1LG.jpg
    15.6 KB · Views: 762
I'm at the same stage as you in fact, my traps are built & I'm going to use the picture frame method for walls & hooks connecting the traps with light duty chains - so that I can adjust them.

I may try hellium filled baloons :p

How thick is the insulation? I was surprised how heavy my completed 100mm thick traps were & am a little concerned about them coming down on me!! I'll be using plasterboard plugs to screw the hooks into though, so hopefully I wont get concussed.:D
 
RICK FITZPATRICK said:
I think this would depend on whether or not the room was built with isolation in mind(RC or other decoupling), as care must be taken when penetrating and sealing the drywall for iso type construction. OR, shorting out the decoupling via a fastener. If this is just standard residential construction, there are lots of ways.

Is there a panel on the back of these "frames"? If so, use a "hook cleat" for the wall units. If not, probably use "picture frame" wire, although I think that is a terrible way to hang these types of frames. This is one of those "not thinking ahead" type projects I see all the time here. Post fabrication solutions usually are bunk. Had you thought ahead, you could have "built in" the solution. If there is NO panel, then your solutions are limited to hardware store "after the fact" crap hardware, that at best is usually a pain in the ass, and or unsightly. :rolleyes:

Anyway, if the back of these units is "open", or exposed fabric, the frame rear edge is the only place to fasten hardware

. Maybe two of these per frame would be your best bet. At least on the walls.
fitZ
Click to expand...
Would they work for ceilings and corners though FitZ? That's why i went for the glass plates, coz they do them all
 
_brian_ said:
I'll be using plasterboard plugs to screw the hooks into though, so hopefully I wont get concussed.:D
Click to expand...
I used the plasterboard fixing scews too. Making any hole in an isolated room is a nono though, but in most cases it almost has to be done.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top