How to handle roof

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tmix

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If I build up my roof for mass, how do you handle venting the heat out of the attic cavity. It would seem that cutting holes for heat turbines would defeat the purpose of building up the mass, or am I wrong?

Does the increased mass of the roof still keep low frequency T/L down even with a few turbine holes?

How would one handle the eaves and soffits?

This will be on new construction, where I can do pretty much what I want.

Tom
 
You really have no choice on venting the attic. If you don't then (over time) you'll damage the roof, shingles, etc due to heat buildup. On top of that you have to have it vented to get the moisture out or you'll have mold and eventually rot. Keep in mind the heat has to go somewhere. If it can't get out through vents it'll work it's way down into the rooms.
Is this a wood frame type building or metal? I have a 1200sqft metal (butler type) building. I don't have any vents on top because the zigzag gap (like ruffles potato chips) where the outside wall meets the roof seems to ventilate the attic OK. I have considered putting vents at each end of the building to move more air but I haven't done it yet.
The building is heavily insulated (more than my house) and with resilient channel mounted sheetrock walls inside. The guitars, etc seem to stay inside the building but the kick and bass guitar will pass through the exterior walls. I live in the country so it's not a problem.

Hope some of this helped.

DD
 
If you use ridge and soffit vents, then you should be able to isolate right below the rafters, just like you would a wall.
 
Does the increased mass of the roof still keep low frequency T/L down even with a few

Does the increased mass of the roof still keep low frequency T/L down even with a few turbine holes?
Does the increased mass of the roof still keep low frequency T/L down even with a few turbine holes?
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Excellent question. I suspect this a conundrum issue. :eek: I'll leave this one for Rod, as I've only read one other thread relating to it. I admit my lack of experience and knowlege in regard to this, but I will say,......I asked it myself over a year ago on anoither forum and recieved NO answers :confused: I think I'll ask again on three other forums I visit. Hope an expert will reply here. It would appear my suggestion to increase the roof mass would make no sense in relationship to its use as a leaf in a two leaf system if vented. Only a sealed attic would qualify it as an "airgap", which is impossible when vented. I have heard of designs where the roof is a THIRD leaf, whereby the roof is vented, and the "actual" second leaf is drywall applied directly to the trusses, and the "interior" leaf suspended via Risc isolators and hat channel. This seems the only viable way around this, however my disclaimer is in FULL force here.

I am truly sorry when my lack of thinking exposes gaps in my suggestion validity. But I'm sure this can be solved soon. I'll be back. My apology Tom.
fitZ
 
DD
Yeah I live in the country as well!
The closest neighbor will be about 100 feet away. I have had the studio in my garage for 10 years now with minmal treatments and gotten away with it, since I record primarily Jazz / Celtic / Country stuff, and the volume is low. The Bass / and Kick seem to be the big factor at my place as well, so with the place I am planning to build I hope the increased wall mass with double wall single sided 2 leaf layered construction will take care of enough transmission loss to not bother the neighbors in the years to come.

I can see you are right about the heat buildup. Here in Texas it would routinely be over 140 degrees (in the attic) by 10 in the morning during the warmer months.

MS,
I think I understand what you are saying. What I am planning on doing is building a freestanding structure with just perimeter walls and trusses (10 ft wall height) and double rock the ceiling (insulating above), then create freestanding inner rooms at 8 ft heights or so with double sheetrock on the inside walls but the exterior parts just the exposed insulation. That should give a good amount of dead absorptive space to help trap the sound (I think).

Thanks for ya'lls input. I am sure ther are a million more questions to ask.

Tom
 
tmix said:
MS,
I think I understand what you are saying. What I am planning on doing is building a freestanding structure with just perimeter walls and trusses (10 ft wall height) and double rock the ceiling (insulating above), then create freestanding inner rooms at 8 ft heights or so with double sheetrock on the inside walls but the exterior parts just the exposed insulation. That should give a good amount of dead absorptive space to help trap the sound (I think).
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Oh I see. I thought you were going for a cathedral ceiling. Anyway, with an isolated ceiling, and with respect to Rick's post, yeah I think I'd drywall the ceiling with plywood on the trusses above, and ignore the roof itself. Then you could vent the attic any way you liked.
 
Hello guys, I just posted a drawing and question regarding this "conundrum" on the studiotips site. As there are ongoing discussions relating to the transmission loss of isolated slabs as a function of interior leaf MASS/matching, I am curious myself, how the exterior leaf/ SECOND LEAF(between roof and interior leaf) must address this MASS/TL at the slab, and how to support this MASS of the second leaf. Fundamentally, engineering the trusses is NOT the question. It is this MATCHING the exterior wall mass to any TL of the slab that is the question Here is a TYPICAL drawing that I posted to illustrate where I am referring to. Also, the HVAC comes into play here also, as penetrations by ducting etc must be addressed also, if HIGH SPL isolation is to be accomplished. No? :confused:

Anyway, maybe we will get some PRO answers to this soon.
 

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Thanks MS. Like I said, it is NOT the real deal, just an illustration for the questions I asked. Personally, I think there is a lot of questions to be answered
before truely designing a studio from the ground up. But this has to do with all the data such as neighbor distance, music db profile, available budget etc etc. I'm certainly not suggeting this drawing as an "actual" build. Which in reality is most typical of residential "after the fact" homestudio builds. If it were me, and I had the budget, I would build a concrete tiltup, or concrete filled block walls and lift lightweight concrete ceiling slabs(or poured) and build a roof over that suppored by the wall perimeter. But how much money do you have? :D As well as need?
Anyway, as usual, I'm just poking my nose into this stuff to bring out the questions that have'nt really been addressed before just for the sake of learning myself. Hadn't it been for Paul Woodlocks thread(studiotips site) in regards to transmission loss of floating concrete floors, many questions regarding floating wood floors would NOT have come to light, at least for DIY's. Lots of threads have appeared in the last 5 years here suggesting floating a room on lightweight wood structures, and walls which did NOT match in TL, which left floors performance actually amplifying certain frequencys to the outside world, while allowing resonace to remain higher than the walls/ceiling. It is in that light that I ask these type of questions NOW, as "net fact" solutions could waste peoples time and money shoud they actually use them. Or so it seems. I've been guilty of this myself and am only now become leary of suggesting things as this thread illustrates :rolleyes: Anyway, thats why I pursue these threads.
fitZ
 
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