homemade mic mount

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frederic

frederic

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Unpainted/test fitting:
micmount1.jpg


Primed:
IM000835.JPG


Painted:
IM000836.JPG


Installed:
IM000837.JPG



Of course in the rush to get it done, I forgot to install the headphone hook on the bottom :(

Grrrrr @(*#$@(*#$!
 
freakin awsome!!!!
Ditto :D Love the corner bracket for shear bracing. Mahvelous dahling! :p
Oh, one thing. The wall mount XLR outlet!! ;)
fitZ
 
RICK FITZPATRICK said:
Ditto :D Love the corner bracket for shear bracing. Mahvelous dahling! :p

Yep, the advantage of a corner bracket is that it will be much more difficult to pull off the wall as it's tied to two walls.

RICK FITZPATRICK said:
Oh, one thing. The wall mount XLR outlet!! ;)
fitZ

Already made :)

IM000838.JPG
 
Are the XLR and TRS sockets wired together? Or are the TRS headphone feeds?
 
Rick - Yeah, you should have. I wasn't going to post that picture yet because I have to copy off the assembly "how to make this" series of pictures yet.

DCWave - right now its a long rectangular box with 8 TRS and 8 XLR jacks, with a 1" hole on the back for the wires to come in. Haven't soldered a thing yet. I just finished powdercoating the box this morning :)

IM000839.JPG


Essentially the "box" is very thin-wall aluminum rectangular tubing extrusion, with two equally thin endcaps brazed on, and a larger, also thin faceplate that was drilled out for the jacks. I used small self-tapping screws, so I didn't have to bother threading the faceplate holes on the box, or for the XLR jacks. Once done, I powdercoated it black and attached the jacks.

Would have been less work just painting it with aluminum specific primer, then going over that with a spraycan color of choice (hunter green like the wall mount bracket), but why do things the easy way. Powdercoating (and anodizing) lasts longer anyway.

BTW, to avoid nasty, large welding beads, I used my oxy/acl jewlers torch and this product here: http://www.durafix.com which is neat stuff, its great for "soldering" anything non-ferrous, like aluminum, brass, copper, etc. I've used it for years fixing aluminum radiators rather than replacing them, for example. Also soldered aluminum gear covers, aluminum water pumps, etc. Works well on thin material too, flows nicely. Just don't believe their hype about using a propane torch. You need a mapp/oxy torch as a minimum, since most non-ferrous metal whisk the heat away from your soldering area very quickly. A jewelers torch (oxygen-acetelyne) is excellent for this. Small flame in a very small hand held torch that's easy to control and manipulate, minimizing the heat damage you do to the part. Using the full size torch is like trying to peel an apple with a viking axe :)
 
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I got one of those, sorta - actually made for the purpose by Luxo, the lamp people - used it for a live mic stand for couple years (attached to a keyboard stack) - thing had a nasty resonance around 5-6 kHz, so I stopped using it. Still, for a talkback or slate mic, very handy ONLY when you NEED it to be... Steve
 
Frederic, you have me intrigued. I have two of those type of mic stands (freebees from a few years back) and I've been trying to figure a way to exploit them. Hmmmmmmmmm.........
 
Powdercoating

RICK FITZPATRICK said:
Hey frederic, how do YOU powdercoat? :eek: :confused: OR anodize?


I have black powdercoat left over from another project, for aluminum. I put some of it into my airbrush, attach that to my compressor, set the regulator to 10psi.

I have a high voltage power supply which positive connects to the stainless airbrush gun via an alligator clip, and negative goes to the piece of work. Turn on power supply, and spray the items. The items are hanging from a coat hanger. I then take the pieces, carrying them by the coat hangers, into the kitchen and hook them inside the stove, which has been preheated to 450. Close door, wait 5 minutes, turn stove down to 400, wait 30 minutes, turn off stove, take items out before wife notices I've baked more parts in her oven :)

The electrostatic part makes the powder stick consistantly and evenly - the powder only sticks to bare metal - not to itself, so you can get a perfectly even coat. Baking it in the oven, melts the powder and it sticks to the metal permanently as well as to itself, with no drips, runs, sags, unlike spraying paint, because the amount of powder that sticks to the material is exactly the right amount. No more, no less.

I haven't done anodizing in a really long time... if you want to know how to do it, I'd be happy to dig out my notebook and explain it in usable detail. It is something the DIY fanatic can do at home, affordably too.
 
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knightfly said:
I got one of those, sorta - actually made for the purpose by Luxo, the lamp people - used it for a live mic stand for couple years (attached to a keyboard stack) - thing had a nasty resonance around 5-6 kHz, so I stopped using it. Still, for a talkback or slate mic, very handy ONLY when you NEED it to be... Steve

I'm anticipating some resonance. I've already purchased thin poly washers to go in the screw fittings :) I'm also going to replace the two adjustment knobs. They are too small for my fingers, so I might have to dig out my lathe. But I'm going to worry about that later on... I could spend all week making perfect pretty knobs and not getting anything else done!!!
 
Track Rat said:
Frederic, you have me intrigued. I have two of those type of mic stands (freebees from a few years back) and I've been trying to figure a way to exploit them. Hmmmmmmmmm.........

Corner mounts are easy to make as you can see. It's just a piece of angle iron with a triangle welded to the top, with a solid round piece in the center, that you drill the same diameter as your "post" on the bottom of your mic arms.

If you want I can make you one like mine... but you can buy a wall mount here: http://www.proaudio.com/product_info.php?products_id=1781 for $20 a pop, though it's not as thick/massive as mine nor is it a corner mount.

I could make a different design if you want something less massive or a different shape...

micmount3.jpg


But it won't be "perfect" looking. Industrial, reasonable, indestructable yes :)


Cutting and welding the pieces are easy, and quick. Grinding off the beads is time consuming. Other than that, piece of cake. If you want me to make you one, I'd need the diameter of the post of the arm you have, if the post is solid or hollow, slotted or not, and when fully contracted, the distance of the post to the back of the arm (i.e. how far from the wall do you want the post to be). Or, I can just guess :) I bet this would make a nice paperweight too!
 
God, I love this place! I'm gonna dig them out when I get home from work and do some brain storming (I can smell the smoke already :D ).
 
God, I love this place!
:D :D :D Ditto.

Frederic, by the power vested in me, I hereby Crown you "KING of the DIY'ers" :p You ARE unfreakingbelievable.(whispering to friend .........Do you believe this guy, DIY powdercoating and anodizing! I wonder whats next, braiding his own cables and coating them in neoprene or building his version of a Neuman?........ :eek: :eek: :cool: )
fitZ
 
Heheh, thank you.

I definately have the "Oh, I can make that" attitude. But it does get me into trouble sometimes, because confidence should never replace ability. There have been things over the years I've made that... well... resulted in a useless mass of materials which I ended up buying new anyway. Sometimes the DIY aspect is significantly more costly than just buying the item in the first place.

Like for example, the jack-box I made for the vocal booth, cost me about $70 to make including the powder coating materials, the jacks, the thin aluminum, etc. Not very pricy in and of itself, except to make the perfectly rectangle box, and hand machine out the opening for the face plate, was very time consuming. I probably have about 150 hours into the jackplate box by itself. Why?

I spent 30 minutes each way driving to/from the metal supplier. I spent 2 hours there picking through their scrap to find materials I liked that were close enough in size to minimize my cutting needs. That's 3 hours right there and I haven't made anything yet!

Then cutting out the hole in the extrusion was more complicated than I thought. The first one I just cut the rectangular hole with an air saw, but unfortunately it wasn't straight. Does it matter? no. Did it annoy me? Yes. So I made another 30 minute each way trip to the metal supplier and got another piece. Then I spent 6 hours making a router jig out of steel, slapped in a carbide bit into the router instead of a wood bit, then routed/ground out the opening to be a nice rectangle. Picture a dremel on steroids. So while it only took 15 minutes to make the rectangular hole, I wasted six hours making the "system" in order to make the hole. I probably could have bought a router table for $100, then clamp on wooden stops, and slide the extrusion over the router (facing up) and had it done quicker, but nooooooo. So now I have this weird metal contraption to cut up and toss back into the scrap pile LMAO.

I could have primed this with aluminum-suitable primer in about a minute (or two), then painted it twice with a spray can (2-4 minutes). No, I had to set up my five igloos and spend several hours going through the powder coating process, mixing chemicals and spending a good hour scrubbing the two pieces inside and out with a toothbrush. And I got some lye on the floor, and I stained my fingers a little bit, and my garage smells like a chemical plant now. And I ticked my wife off baking it in the oven, and the kitchen smelled like a chemical plant for a day until I was bright enough to open the windows. The TRS jacks were easy - drill holes. The XLR jacks required three holes. Two very small diameter holes for the self-tapping screws, and one big hole for the body. Not a big deal, but its difficult to free-form drill these holes correctly and consistantly. So, I had to measure one of the XLR jacks with a micrometer, document the three centerpoints, then make a template in Visio, then print that out, and spray-glue it to the surface of the aluminum, then centerpunch carefully all the center points of the 24 holes. Then drill them out without scratching the aluminum plate. And it's thin, so it has a tendency to warp a little from the drilling heat, so one has to go painfully slow (125 rpm). Then drill out the jack body holes with a hole saw. Then hand-deburr the jack holes, and zap through a self tapping screw into each of the mounting holes to thread them, then toss that screw and use new ones when it's done, painted/powdercoated, etc.

The sad thing is you can buy something equally flimsy on e-bay for about $40 plus $10 shipping. $50, it's shipped tio your door, and I could have saved a lot of time and energy.

I like making things for some reason, and often it backfires. Trust me, I never show pictures of 'bad things' LMAO
 
So while it only took 15 minutes to make the rectangular hole, I wasted six hours making the "system" in order to make the hole.
Ha! THAT is the norm in an architectural mill. It ALWAYS takes much more time to insure accurate templates than the actual machining. I helped make a template for some ELIPTICAL showcases, that was 8 sheets of 3/4" MDF, fastened to the concrete floor of the shop. It was for machining eliptical showcase decks. But since they were a complete showcase line, everything had to line up PERFECTLY. We're talking $75,000 for this particular line. Anyway, they spent a freakin week building this jig. Took 3 guys to guide the router brackets through the jig. Wierdest contraption you ever seen. Only took a couple of hours to machine the parts though.

Of COURSE, this was 10 years before CNC. Once the shop had CNC, people start to forget how to do this stuff by hand. We did a similar unit a few years ago. I laid out the machining in CAD, and had the parts by the end of the day. The guy running the CNC scratched his head when I told him we did it by hand a few years back. :D
 
Oh, BTW, I have some 12' lengths of Stylmark aluminum extrusions that are made for storefront glass systems. Preanodized too. They form a box when put together. I simply cut to length and add ends. Makes for great custom rackmount boxes. Even the front panell is part of it. Easy too. Of course, they are only 2" wide on the front, and 4" deep. But I use it for all kinds of stuff. Right now, I'm using some of it to build a vertical panel saw for the shop.
fitZ
 
dcwave said:
Are the XLR and TRS sockets wired together? Or are the TRS headphone feeds?

Just to follow up on my answer and make it more clear, since the wiring will be a "straight through" to one of the patch bays, I can use all of the jacks for any purpose. Microphones, line outs of synths, amps, and what not, passthrough of wordclock, aes/ebu and s/pdif, guitars, midi, etc. Would require some interesting patch cords, however for me it's fine. I don't mind making a few spares of the "funky" patch cords for this purpose. Even though digital audio is a little particular about impedence, I've found a short 4' run like this (the box to the patch bay) doesn't seem to make a difference. Wordclock is a lot more picky, so I'll run coax for that, and probably replace one of the TRS jacks with a BNC, just to do it correctly.
 
Watching Frederic's threads is like an online course of "Studio Building 101"! :D
 
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