Help-- trouble with Tascam 38

D

Deaaaath

New member
So I got my Tascam 38 fully serviced at the end of August, and everything was working great until late November. After threading the tape and pushing play, the Shut off arm and pinch roller would engage as usual, but the tape would not move-- I believe the capstan shaft would not engage as per usual because even when simply lifting the shut off arm, I wouldn't hear the usual hum of the motors working. Anyways, Fast forward and rewind still worked fine; just no play. I would disengage and the shut off arm, re-engage it, and after a few fast forwards and rewinds, eventually the tape would play and all would be fine. I probably should have taken it in to get looked at at this point, but money, of course, is an issue. This problem persisted, and eventually I would just get the tape to play by pushing the play button and then manually starting up the reel with my hands. Tonight, not even that would work. Half way through writing this, it occurred to me to take a video of the problem.
https://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v211/Supplies/?action=view&current=tascamwoe.flv
If anyone has any advice, even if it's just "Bring it in for professional repair" I would really appreciate it. Thanks.
 
Hmmm, almost looks like the brakes are not releasing. Maybe it's the brake solenoid? Does the pinch roller engage completly or does it get stuck?
EDIT: Maybe there are some dirty contacts somewhere, or the signal is not being sent to disengage the brakes on play, I don't think it's anything serious, but you may need to get it diagnosed by a pro.
 
Huh, huh annnnnd huh!

Thanks for putting up the video. That is relly an effective way of presenting a problem.

SO...

  1. Is the capstan shaft spinning?
  2. Can you do what you're doing and manually encourage the supply reel at all or are the reel motors dead?
  3. Didja check your fuses (and I mean with a multimeter...check for continuity from pole to pole on those fuses)?
  4. What happens if you leave the reels off and manually raise the tension arm and hit play?
  5. It looks like the 30-series use the same rubber "cushion" washers between the body of the solenoid and the solenoid shaft...keeps them things from clacking something awful when the solenoid shaft retracts. Anyway, they can get sticky and turn to goo. Can you check those out? I can give you more specifics if needed. They're not hard to get to...
 
sweetbeats said:
Thanks for putting up the video. That is relly an effective way of presenting a problem.

SO...

  1. Is the capstan shaft spinning?
  2. Can you do what you're doing and manually encourage the supply reel at all or are the reel motors dead?
  3. Didja check your fuses (and I mean with a multimeter...check for continuity from pole to pole on those fuses)?
  4. What happens if you leave the reels off and manually raise the tension arm and hit play?
  5. It looks like the 30-series use the same rubber "cushion" washers between the body of the solenoid and the solenoid shaft...keeps them things from clacking something awful when the solenoid shaft retracts. Anyway, they can get sticky and turn to goo. Can you check those out? I can give you more specifics if needed. They're not hard to get to...
Click to expand...

Good point about the solenoid cushion. I had to remove the one on the brake solenoid in my 42 as it did not seem to be retracting enough to release the brakes fully causing a drag. I removed this felt and it's now fine, just a little noisier.
 
sweetbeats said:
Thanks for putting up the video. That is relly an effective way of presenting a problem.

SO...

  1. Is the capstan shaft spinning?
  2. Can you do what you're doing and manually encourage the supply reel at all or are the reel motors dead?
  3. Didja check your fuses (and I mean with a multimeter...check for continuity from pole to pole on those fuses)?
  4. What happens if you leave the reels off and manually raise the tension arm and hit play?
  5. It looks like the 30-series use the same rubber "cushion" washers between the body of the solenoid and the solenoid shaft...keeps them things from clacking something awful when the solenoid shaft retracts. Anyway, they can get sticky and turn to goo. Can you check those out? I can give you more specifics if needed. They're not hard to get to...
Click to expand...
1. No, it is not spinning.
2. Up until last night I could start the reels by manually winding them when in play. Now when I do that it plays super slow for a second and then slowly fades to a stop.
3. I haven't checked the fuses, nor do I think I really could haha.
4. I haven't done that specifically yet (I will later), but I can tell you that when I leave the reels off and manually raise the tension arm, the capstan shaft does not start to spin like it used to.
5. Very interesting! Unfortunately I don't know how to check for this... could you give me some directions if possible?

thanks so much!
 
I would check the fuses before doing anything else. Do you have or can you get a simple multimeter that will test for continuity? Even one of the cheapy ones ($10 ~ $15) will do...

Do you have a full manual for the deck?
 
Yeah, I have the full manual.
I can get a multimeter from a friend I think. Will checking the fuses be a simple enough process? I am pretty empty on knowledge in regards to that stuff haha.
 
It looks like the fuse board is likely on top of the supply reel motor housing. Can anybody confirm or disconfirm that? I don't have a 38 service manual but I have the 32 service manual and that's what it shows.

Disconnect the 38 from its power source (i.e. unplug the thing) but leave it switched on. This will help to drain residual power from the guts.

Deaaaath, you'll have to get the "Bonnet Panel" off...that's the one that goes around the top and sides. If it is like the 32, there are 7 screws that hold the upper "Rear Panel" on. Take those off, and then there are 3 screws on each side of the deck...take those out and you should be able to get the Bonnet Panel off. See below.

Borrow the multimeter from your friend and have him show you how to test for continuity. You'll set it to continuity and then you'll put one probe on one side of the fuse, and the other probe on the other to see if the fuse will pass electricity (yes you could just look at the fuses, but sometimes they may not look blown when they are). If they are all good, rotate each one in its fuse holder in case there is oxidation. If it still doesn't work then we'll go from there. If any fuses are bad, rotate the good ones, take out the bad one(s) and bring it/them to your local electronics shop. Get several replacements in case it blows again when you put the good one in the deck. If it/they do blow again then its a bigger problem that will likely require a repair tech.

Keep us posted.
 

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Sweetbeats, thanks so much for bearing with me and giving such detailed responses! They've been very, very helpful.
I'll borrow the multimeter later today/tonight and let you know how it goes. Hopefully we'll figure something out!
 
Just incase...I do have alot of spare internal parts for a 38. From the fuse block to the brakes and just about all the internals. So if you need anything I could help out...
 
I would also suggest you look at the capstan belt, as Herm suggested. It can be off or slipping or it has additionally turned to goo and has gummed up the capstan motor shaft [as you mentioned you can't hear it, right?]. If it's the belt then it would easily explain your problem.
 
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Yeah...right-right-right...Deaaaath, you'll be able to see that stuff (I think) when you take the upper "Rear Panel" off...I totally missed Herm's suggestion about that.

The possibility of a toasted capstan belt being the cause could be reinforced when you test what happens with the deck unloaded (no tape). Again, if you manually raise the takeup tension arm and hit PLAY, the supply reel table should spin madly in a clockwise fashion, and as you slowly lower the takeup tension arm the takeup reel table should spin up (right, guys? :confused:). If that happens then I'd bet Herm and cjacek are right that the belt is bad. It would also explain why the problem didn't happen instantly right? It came on gradually?
 
sweetbeats said:
Again, if you manually raise the takeup tension arm and hit PLAY, the supply reel table should spin madly in a clockwise fashion, and as you slowly lower the takeup tension arm the takeup reel table should spin up (right, guys? :confused:). If that happens then I'd bet Herm and cjacek are right that the belt is bad. It would also explain why the problem didn't happen instantly right? It came on gradually?
Click to expand...

I did this about five minutes ago. Raising the take-up arm and hitting play caused both reel tables to spin madly, and they both came to a stop when I lowered the take-up arm. Is this reinforcing the bad capstan belt idea?

Yes, the problem came on gradually, and only came to this totally useless point after a month or so of gradual decline.

Can I access the belt by taking off the FRONT panel like my intuition (which is usually pretty worthless) tells me or through the upper REAR panel like sweetbeats said?
 
Looks like it's a bad belt...

If the 30 series is all the same [and as my 34] then you gain access from the front panel. I'm actually gonna try to find a link where I changed the belt on my 34, if it would help you. Hold on...
 
Oooo nice work, Daniel. That's right...you helped johnbilben out with his 38 capstan belt issue.

Thanks for correcting my hunch on the access point.

Deaaaath, you can do it! I think johnbilben had about the same experience and comfort level as you and he tackled it and everything worked out great with cjacek's help, so there's a bit of encouragement for ya.

I love it when a plan comes together!! :D
 
If it's like the 32, there will be a recessed nut underneath the varispeed knob. This pins down the front and has to be removed with a pair of pliers or something. Apart from that and removing all the knobs, rollers etc it's pretty straightforward to remove.

If memory serves, you might also have to remove the block containing the heads to get at the capstan belt. This should just be screwed in place.
 
Ugh yeah, that nut is being really annoying. I can't remember where I put my needlenose pliers, so I'm currently stuck on trying to remove that dang nut.
 
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