i got the b55 esp five string bass, its cool and all but its got a buzz on the a string that i cant seem to get out ive tried raising and lowering the saddles n bridge ive adjusted the truss all to no prevail its only the A string, if i loosen the truss a ton itll lose all of its action and still buzz around fret 7 down if i tighten the truss itll buzz even open but none of the others do, i tried raising the saddles all the way up and it still does it could it be abad string? is filing frets possible ive heard of it being done but i dont know if its a good idea or not any help appreciated before i ripp my hair out!!
help me damnit
- Thread starter scottyd
- Start date
Toki987
Rock Steady
You possibly have an improperly cut nut. (that sure sounds odd huh? 
). That means the nut at the top of the neck by the headstock was cut too deep for the A string, if you get buzzing from the 7th fret down on just one string. This is not a job you want to do yourself unless you are experienced, or willing to pay the costs of education. Nor do you want to go polishing frets down unless you know what your doing. Improperly cut grooves and failure to mic' the frets after installation could also be of issue as well.
I would think your best option is to give it back to the the dealer you bought it from first, I know I would. It is defective, and never should have gotten past the initial setup for market with a problems like that. If you ordered it and want to keep it, you could get someone to put a new nut on it for you, which is most likely the problem.
Light would be the most qualified to shed some light on this.
). That means the nut at the top of the neck by the headstock was cut too deep for the A string, if you get buzzing from the 7th fret down on just one string. This is not a job you want to do yourself unless you are experienced, or willing to pay the costs of education. Nor do you want to go polishing frets down unless you know what your doing. Improperly cut grooves and failure to mic' the frets after installation could also be of issue as well. I would think your best option is to give it back to the the dealer you bought it from first, I know I would. It is defective, and never should have gotten past the initial setup for market with a problems like that. If you ordered it and want to keep it, you could get someone to put a new nut on it for you, which is most likely the problem.
Light would be the most qualified to shed some light on this.
Last edited:
thanks
well i reset the truss AGAIN im still getting the buzz but only open to the 9th fret?? if i use a pick i get no buzz, fingers or thumbs itll buzz like hell, (im sure this is besides the point cause ive always played with my fingers) all the other strings are perfect dead on beautiful action, id hate to have to pay shipping on this bastard to send it back just for them to fix it if its defected,(they wont give me a new one) there(music 123) policy is you have to report it defected within 72 hours of recieving it!! i got the thing for christmas, my wife ordered it and had it put up till then. but ill gripe like hell to get my way too but i just wanted to see if anybody had a cure for it i was missing
thanks
well i reset the truss AGAIN im still getting the buzz but only open to the 9th fret?? if i use a pick i get no buzz, fingers or thumbs itll buzz like hell, (im sure this is besides the point cause ive always played with my fingers) all the other strings are perfect dead on beautiful action, id hate to have to pay shipping on this bastard to send it back just for them to fix it if its defected,(they wont give me a new one) there(music 123) policy is you have to report it defected within 72 hours of recieving it!! i got the thing for christmas, my wife ordered it and had it put up till then. but ill gripe like hell to get my way too but i just wanted to see if anybody had a cure for it i was missing
thanks
Clive Hugh
New member
Before you go and replace the nut there is a simple check you can do yourself.
Get a set of feeler gauges, you can get them from a mechanics supply or hardware store.
To use them you keep sliding them under the string by the nut. When you get the right thickness you will get a slight resistance. This is called "interference" It should be the same "feel" or resistance on all the strings. This is how most people cut a groove, you get the desired thickness spacer or gauge and file down the nut till you touch the gauge. If you have quite a difference on the A string it is a nut problem, but from my experience of many years repair work, fret problems are more common. To check that you need a straightedge, but a quick check for you.
Fret the first fret and the 12th. fret,( both at the same time) check the gap under the strings in the middle, there should be clearance of up tO .015" for guitar and bass can be up tp .030" but I prefer to stick to around .015".
Anyway check all the strings out and see if there is a noticeable difference, this would indicate a fret filing is req. Unless you are skilled in filing take it to someone else, I get most of my repair work from jobs people have started and totally fucked up.
Good luck
Clive
Get a set of feeler gauges, you can get them from a mechanics supply or hardware store.
To use them you keep sliding them under the string by the nut. When you get the right thickness you will get a slight resistance. This is called "interference" It should be the same "feel" or resistance on all the strings. This is how most people cut a groove, you get the desired thickness spacer or gauge and file down the nut till you touch the gauge. If you have quite a difference on the A string it is a nut problem, but from my experience of many years repair work, fret problems are more common. To check that you need a straightedge, but a quick check for you.
Fret the first fret and the 12th. fret,( both at the same time) check the gap under the strings in the middle, there should be clearance of up tO .015" for guitar and bass can be up tp .030" but I prefer to stick to around .015".
Anyway check all the strings out and see if there is a noticeable difference, this would indicate a fret filing is req. Unless you are skilled in filing take it to someone else, I get most of my repair work from jobs people have started and totally fucked up.
Good luck
Clive
scotty, I've been playing bass and guitar for 35+ years, worn a few out, here is a quick fix that I've used, sure isn't technical but usually tells if you have a worn out nut cut. Loosen your string, take a matchbook, tear off a piece and put it in the nut, tighten the string back up to tune, if the buzz is gone there's your problem. I've had to play several instruments like this, because of lake of funds or time to repair. just a quick fix. Ralph
Sounds like the slot is too deep - Try 87PRS's suggestion, if that fixes it, you might want to try my cheap easy permanent fix below. Its a reprint of a post I wrote a while back for somebody's guitar with a low slot. Disclaimer: I have not tried this with a graphite style nut yet, not sure if the super glue would stick well to that or not.
For the nut slot, you can either replace it and try to file it down to perfection, or you can cheat like I do to fix this - fill in the missing material. I use super glue and a little bit of paper. The paper's purpose is to provide reinforcement strength, like glass fibers do in fiberglass. Clean the slot with rubbing alcohol to insure good adhesion. Use masking tape to protect your fretboard and headstock from any super glue spillage. Cut a sliver of paper, about as wide as the slot, soak a patch of it with super glue, and apply a bit of the super glue to the bottom of the nut slot. Set the soaked paper in the slot, and tamp it down with a small screwdriver, or whatever is about the width of the slot, so that any air pockets are eliminated. If it needs a couple layers, I would wait until the first one is dry to touch, and then repeat the process. After it is dry, you can trim the excess paper flush with the surfaces of the nut. Don't put the string back in there for 24 hours, it may be dry, but not cured and still soft until then.
I have done this on a couple guitars with good success. At the worst, you can still take it to someone for a complete replacement or do it yourself if it doesn't work out for you.
I got the idea from Dan Erlewine, I read one of his articles where he built up some missing plastic on something using super glue, that stuff gets really hard when all the way cured. I'm just too lazy to get a whole new nut and take the time to install it and file the slots, etc. for one or two low slots...
For the nut slot, you can either replace it and try to file it down to perfection, or you can cheat like I do to fix this - fill in the missing material. I use super glue and a little bit of paper. The paper's purpose is to provide reinforcement strength, like glass fibers do in fiberglass. Clean the slot with rubbing alcohol to insure good adhesion. Use masking tape to protect your fretboard and headstock from any super glue spillage. Cut a sliver of paper, about as wide as the slot, soak a patch of it with super glue, and apply a bit of the super glue to the bottom of the nut slot. Set the soaked paper in the slot, and tamp it down with a small screwdriver, or whatever is about the width of the slot, so that any air pockets are eliminated. If it needs a couple layers, I would wait until the first one is dry to touch, and then repeat the process. After it is dry, you can trim the excess paper flush with the surfaces of the nut. Don't put the string back in there for 24 hours, it may be dry, but not cured and still soft until then.
I have done this on a couple guitars with good success. At the worst, you can still take it to someone for a complete replacement or do it yourself if it doesn't work out for you.
I got the idea from Dan Erlewine, I read one of his articles where he built up some missing plastic on something using super glue, that stuff gets really hard when all the way cured. I'm just too lazy to get a whole new nut and take the time to install it and file the slots, etc. for one or two low slots...
Chris Shaeffer
Peavey ROCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
87PRS said:
^^^^^^^
What he said.
I've got a guitar I've been playing for 16 years that's almost dead. Paid $200 for it used back then, and its not worth sinking too much into to keep alive.
I've been playing it now for about a year with a little bit of the string envelop folded up under one string. Works just fine.
If it slips out, I get buzz ip to the 3rd or 4th fret- but its a guitar and the strings don't move as much as a bass.
Replacing the nut is *easy* but you can just as easily screw up the nut as you cut it. Its probably a pretty inexpensive fix for a good luthier.
Of course, its new- so I'd bitch like hell and tell Music123 where to shove thier shipping costs. The thing is defective, you found out as soon as you could- and let us know what they say.
(Evil consumer grin....)
take care,
Chris
Just in case the world runs out of match books...
... you can take the strings off using painters tape, mask off the headstock and fret board leaving the nut exposed and fill the groove with a 2 part epoxy [comes in a double tube for $5 or so and you'll find it in the glue section of any store close to the crazy glue] let it set up and cure overnight and file the groove down to the right depth with a jewler's saw or a peice of "A" string.
This is what a tech will most likely do instead of replacing the nut.
... you can take the strings off using painters tape, mask off the headstock and fret board leaving the nut exposed and fill the groove with a 2 part epoxy [comes in a double tube for $5 or so and you'll find it in the glue section of any store close to the crazy glue] let it set up and cure overnight and file the groove down to the right depth with a jewler's saw or a peice of "A" string.
This is what a tech will most likely do instead of replacing the nut.
Light
New member
It sounds to me like you just need a good setup, though I can't say for sure with out seeing the guitar. However, if the string is buzzing when fretted, didelling with the nut is not the only part of the fix (it is probably part of the issue as this is a new guitar), as the nut is not the cause of the problem. An improperly cut nut will only cause buzzing on an open string. Here is a short list of some of the most common reasons for a guitar to buzz (thanks to Frank Ford at Gryphon in Palo Alto for the list):
1. Low action at nut
2. Low action at saddle
3. Action too high, can’t fret cleanly
4. String too light
5. Nut low, not enough relief, buzz behind fret
6. Backbow neck
7. String interference above nut (tuner posts, etc.)
8. String rattles against sides of nut slot
9. Flat saddle top
10. Poor break angle over saddle
11. Uneven frets
12. Flat frets
13. Frets too low
14. Loose truss rod
15. Loose string ball
16. Loose brace
17. Loose top or back
18. Loose plies on laminated instrument
19. Loose pickguard
20. Loose bridge
21. Loose truss rod cover
22. Loose string winding
23. Loose gear part
24. Operator error = poor technique
25. It just does = string’s natural “noise”
26. They all do = other similar instruments make the same noise
Which is to say, take it to a professional and have it setup right. It will probably cost you about $60 to $90, but it will be right, and much better than you can do yourself. As far as what the problem is, neither I nor anyone else on this or any other board will have any clue until we have looked at it, which means holding it in my hands and taking a few minutes to check it out. Do not expect good advice from anyone who has not actually looked at it.
A couple of other things. First of all, do not expect to get an instrument from a dealer which is setup right. It almost never happens. There are just too many variables. The first thing that should be done with almost any instrument (the only exceptions are really high end hand made instruments, which should be right) is to take it to a good repair shop and get it setup. This will involve adjusting the neck relief with the truss rod, adjusting the nut slots (which should be right from the factory, but never are), adjusting the action (which is not adjusted by the truss rod, BTW), and on electric guitars adjusting the intonation and electronics.
Second, feeler gauges are totally unnecessary and useless when adjusting nuts. I know many very fine Luthiers use them, but as near as I can tell all they do is insure the nut is set improperly. It is a basic concept of woodworking. If you want it as close as you can, measure, but if you want it perfect you never measure. You fit. You take away small amounts of material until it is perfect. The primary "measurement" devices needed for checking a nut are your eyes and ears. You use your eyes if the guitar is strung up, and you fret just in front of the second fret, which creates a straight edge with the string between the second fret and the nut. This straight edge should just about touch the first fret. If it is actually touching the first fret, the nut is probably too low. The other test is, with the string out of the way (off or moved to one side) you use a small, thin straight edge (we use the back of a little "razor" saw or an Exacto saw with it's back removed). You rest this straight edge along the path of the string from the nut towards the bridge. You slide this towards the bridge, and listen to the click when the straight edge leaves the nut slot and clicks against the frets. This will get you a more accurately cut nut than anyone could ever do with a set of feeler gauges.
Paper, superglue, and epoxy will all wear out very quickly. Take the instrument to a good repair person and get the right fix. Also, putting paper in the nut can screw up the intonation by changing the contact point, which is a big deal.
And can I just say that Otis Reading is the best damn singer ever to live. (Can you guess what I have on the shops stereo right now?)
Sorry for the long reply.
Light
"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
1. Low action at nut
2. Low action at saddle
3. Action too high, can’t fret cleanly
4. String too light
5. Nut low, not enough relief, buzz behind fret
6. Backbow neck
7. String interference above nut (tuner posts, etc.)
8. String rattles against sides of nut slot
9. Flat saddle top
10. Poor break angle over saddle
11. Uneven frets
12. Flat frets
13. Frets too low
14. Loose truss rod
15. Loose string ball
16. Loose brace
17. Loose top or back
18. Loose plies on laminated instrument
19. Loose pickguard
20. Loose bridge
21. Loose truss rod cover
22. Loose string winding
23. Loose gear part
24. Operator error = poor technique
25. It just does = string’s natural “noise”
26. They all do = other similar instruments make the same noise
Which is to say, take it to a professional and have it setup right. It will probably cost you about $60 to $90, but it will be right, and much better than you can do yourself. As far as what the problem is, neither I nor anyone else on this or any other board will have any clue until we have looked at it, which means holding it in my hands and taking a few minutes to check it out. Do not expect good advice from anyone who has not actually looked at it.
A couple of other things. First of all, do not expect to get an instrument from a dealer which is setup right. It almost never happens. There are just too many variables. The first thing that should be done with almost any instrument (the only exceptions are really high end hand made instruments, which should be right) is to take it to a good repair shop and get it setup. This will involve adjusting the neck relief with the truss rod, adjusting the nut slots (which should be right from the factory, but never are), adjusting the action (which is not adjusted by the truss rod, BTW), and on electric guitars adjusting the intonation and electronics.
Second, feeler gauges are totally unnecessary and useless when adjusting nuts. I know many very fine Luthiers use them, but as near as I can tell all they do is insure the nut is set improperly. It is a basic concept of woodworking. If you want it as close as you can, measure, but if you want it perfect you never measure. You fit. You take away small amounts of material until it is perfect. The primary "measurement" devices needed for checking a nut are your eyes and ears. You use your eyes if the guitar is strung up, and you fret just in front of the second fret, which creates a straight edge with the string between the second fret and the nut. This straight edge should just about touch the first fret. If it is actually touching the first fret, the nut is probably too low. The other test is, with the string out of the way (off or moved to one side) you use a small, thin straight edge (we use the back of a little "razor" saw or an Exacto saw with it's back removed). You rest this straight edge along the path of the string from the nut towards the bridge. You slide this towards the bridge, and listen to the click when the straight edge leaves the nut slot and clicks against the frets. This will get you a more accurately cut nut than anyone could ever do with a set of feeler gauges.
Paper, superglue, and epoxy will all wear out very quickly. Take the instrument to a good repair person and get the right fix. Also, putting paper in the nut can screw up the intonation by changing the contact point, which is a big deal.
And can I just say that Otis Reading is the best damn singer ever to live. (Can you guess what I have on the shops stereo right now?)
Sorry for the long reply.
Light
"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
juststartingout
New member
Oh for god's sake, go buy a nut. It's 5 bucks. A no brainer.
a no brainer?
no thanks ill think ill just leave it like it is or follow lights advice, and no its not a no brainer on a new bass, with a new nut, fresh out of the fucking box, sure it would be if it was a few years old, this is my first five string bass, and if you didnt know there a little different than a normal one, my main concern was that it had too much stress on the neck for all i know it could have a fret out or the fretboard could be fucked up either way itll prob. go to the shop before i tear into it, i only asked to see if some one else had the same problem, and what to check. before I took it to a shop,
FOR GODS SAKE!!!!!!!!!!
no thanks ill think ill just leave it like it is or follow lights advice, and no its not a no brainer on a new bass, with a new nut, fresh out of the fucking box, sure it would be if it was a few years old, this is my first five string bass, and if you didnt know there a little different than a normal one, my main concern was that it had too much stress on the neck for all i know it could have a fret out or the fretboard could be fucked up either way itll prob. go to the shop before i tear into it, i only asked to see if some one else had the same problem, and what to check. before I took it to a shop,
FOR GODS SAKE!!!!!!!!!!
Light
New member
juststartingout said:
Um, no not even kind of. Five bucks won’t even buy you the material for a good nut. We charge about ten bucks for the bone for a five string, plus another $70 to make the nut. Nuts are NOT a drop in replacement, ever. They need to be custom fit to each guitar. It take a lot of skill, some special tools, and most importantly, time.
Of greater concern though is the fact I don't think the nut is the only problem he is having. If the only problem was with the nut, he would not be having buzzes on fretted strings. A low nut slot will only cause an open string buzz.
Light
"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
juststartingout
New member
Re: a no brainer?
If it's a new bass, the place you got it should fix it or replace it at no cost to you!!! Every place I have ever bought from, would do this.
Sorry Light, I don't mean to dis your career field, but when I buy an insturment, I do expect it to be set up right. When I buy a car, I expect it to run right or I take it back, and insturments are no different.
scottyd said:
If it's a new bass, the place you got it should fix it or replace it at no cost to you!!! Every place I have ever bought from, would do this.
Light said:
Sorry Light, I don't mean to dis your career field, but when I buy an insturment, I do expect it to be set up right. When I buy a car, I expect it to run right or I take it back, and insturments are no different.
juststartingout,
Light has a very good point about your new guitar needing a proper setup... A setup is required for a person's personal playing style and guitars coming from the factory just basically get a super quick... in the ballpark setup...
This would be like you buying a car and if the seat, mirrors, tire pressure etc. etc. were not set up for you.... you would take the car back...
If however your put in a order for a Custom strat at the Fender custom shop... and wait the 9 month's to get it... and pay the big $$$ for it... It will come to you set up... just for you... but then you still pay for the setup... MUCH more than $60 to $90!
Shred
Light has a very good point about your new guitar needing a proper setup... A setup is required for a person's personal playing style and guitars coming from the factory just basically get a super quick... in the ballpark setup...
This would be like you buying a car and if the seat, mirrors, tire pressure etc. etc. were not set up for you.... you would take the car back...
If however your put in a order for a Custom strat at the Fender custom shop... and wait the 9 month's to get it... and pay the big $$$ for it... It will come to you set up... just for you... but then you still pay for the setup... MUCH more than $60 to $90!
Shred