
halfred
New member

OK. I'm experimenting with recording myself on my S&S B )classical solos from the romantic era--Rachmaninoff, Granados, Chopin etc. etc.). I started with Pulsar 11's because they were cheapo and got good reviews. I heard a recording online using them and it sounded great. A reviewer said they were suprisingly good copies of Neumann k184's except with more "sparkle in the mid-range." I've been experimenting with them in ORTF. They are too noisy. I have to go out from the open piano lid at least five feet to get the blended sound of the piano and especially to not pick up the damper noise. Then I decided to buy a newmatched pair of NT1a's (cheaply.) I thought they might have a richer sound and they did. I loved it and they were totally quiet. Only problem now is that I have to move them at least 6-7 feet back from open lid, and they just seem to loose too much detail .They sound great! closer up, put they pick up the damper noise. I'm stuck! Any suggestions? I started thyis dialogue back in "recording techniques" where I got a lot of great suggestions. I was even warned about using LDC's given the recording circumstances.
So what about a spot somewhere between "6-7 feet back" and "closer up"?
The other thing is to reconsider your thoughts about the piano sound. For exaample, every musical instrument has its suite of mechanical noises associated with being played: finger squeaks on guitars, pads and valves opening and shutting on wind instruments and so on. You might like to think of these (and consequently your piano-playing noises) as part of the performance, and just live with them.
I'm curious what the rest of your setup is. What preamps are you using? What are you recording on?
I wouldnt use them in the exact same spots...and you might use felt and lubrication to deal with the dampers the best you can...you should get adivice from a piano tuner for the latter...but you may use a pad on the mics and use them farther away from the damper.
So what about a spot somewhere between "6-7 feet back" and "closer up"?
The other thing is to reconsider your thoughts about the piano sound. For exaample, every musical instrument has its suite of mechanical noises associated with being played: finger squeaks on guitars, pads and valves opening and shutting on wind instruments and so on. You might like to think of these (and consequently your piano-playing noises) as part of the performance, and just live with them.
A common mantra is buy cheap buy twice. And you might be attacking the problem from the wrong end. What is your backend like? Preamp? Converter? I went from laptop soundcard to a usb interface to an after market PCI soundcard to a DSD field recorder until I got results that I was semi-happy with. With very similar complaints, noise floor and detail. Of course it helps to have nice front end too. i.e. Studio Monitors to hear how the recording actually sounds. Not that you don't have this covered, but we don't know because you didn't state those details.
Thanks that is a good idea. I'm having the piano regulated and voiced soon and I'll discuss that with the Steinway Tech. What do you mean by pads on the mics?
Most of the time the mics will have a pad switch which will make them less sensitive...I guess if I remember right the NT1 didnt have any switches...but you might have one in the chain somewhere...I have them on my pres too.
I have the lady from our city's ballet next week and Ill be doing a similer job with 2 AT3035 mics and a line6 ux2.
It helps if you have someone else play the paino while you try a few things out in terms of mic placement and such. That's a much faster learning curve than recording one way each rehearsal and finding out that it wasn't that great after the fact. Microtrack II? Is that the one with auto gain staging. If it is, that must kind of suck for classical piano. No dynamics and all. I have a Korg MR-1000 myself. Stellar converters, and the preamps aren't too shabby either. Sometimes I'd want to get my hands on a sound devices equivalent, but I'm probably going to settle on an external battery powered preamp to feed the Korg. It really depends on how my lottery tickets play out.
SDCs are prefered since they tend to have flatter response curves. i.e. sounds like a piano through the entire register of notes. And not like a string bass on the low end and a harpsichord on the high end. OMNI's if you want to have room ambience. Close mic'd with Omni if you want to have it weighted in favor of the piano sound. Cardioid if you want to focus in on just the piano. I guess it just depends on if you want to feel like you're in the same room as a piano, or actually inside the piano. Think of Omni as an audio lantern, where Cardioid is more like an audio flashlight. But you probably knew that already.
Yeah, the MR-1000 is a DSD recorder. Supposedly a larger dynamic range than 24 bit. And a sampling rate of 192k x4 or something like that. The files end up being about 1GB for every 12.5 minutes for a stereo image. i.e. It's great at getting all of that detail of sound that you think that you're missing. It even keeps that detail when down sampled (or maintains the illusion of detail anyway). But the onboard preamps supposedly lack a little low end and other quirks that are fixed by a mod, or by using an external preamp. IMO my mics lack a little low end, whether that's the mics or the preamps has yet to be proven. I tried feeding it with a DMP3 on the front end, and there really wasn't much noticeable difference in results. I still liked the Korgs preamps slightly better though. As an MP3 player the Korg rules the roost. It really brings out the highs and lows that gets stomped on by low end gear.
You might try using a Samson Zoom H4. It's much more affordable, and very respectable. And popular so you should be able to pick one up reasonable. And if you get something better, it should be fairly easy to offload. You could also try feeding the microtrack with a different preamp, say a DMP3. Lots of options to squeeze out every little bit of detail. If you have high hopes, you might not be quite satisfied until you have the best of the best in all dimensions. At which point it might be cheaper to rent studio time, than to actually buy the cow.
right, no switches on the NT1A's. But the Pulsars have them. Which switch are you referring to? You seem to use those A 3035's a lot. What do you like about them? I see that they've been discontinued. Are the 3035's now called 2035's?