drossfile
nope
PhilGood said:Under $100 I would go with an SM-57, a GLS ES-57 (1/3 the price) or a condenser like the SP B1.
I will tell you what I think are the most important lessons I have learned in micing a kit.
1. Let the drums be drums. Do NOT try to make them sound like a recording before you mic them. Let them speak in the most natural way they can. Just the same as they were right out of the box. Tune them well, then after that leave them alone. Seriously. Don't try to weigh them down and dampen the sound with wads of tape and tissue and foam. Changing head types is the most effective way to get the sound you want.
2. Get good cymbals. You CANNOT make bad cymbals sound good. Period.
3. Use good mics and very little (if any) Equalization. EQ can be very bad and destroy the sound. Don't put the mic as close to the drum as you can thinking that is going to get the best sound. Drums sounds are a composite of the materials that make up the drum. If you put the mic close to the skin, all you're going to hear is the skin. Let the sound develop before it reaches the mic. Play with placement rather than screw with the EQ. I just recently figured out that the body from my snare is captured by my tom mics and the mic on my snare picks up the articulation. Overheads get the crispness. Everything has to work in concert.
4. A good room. You don't realize the havoc a bad room can have on the sound when there are more than one or two mics recording. Get your acoustics in order.
Sorry for the diatribe, but I have been working on my drum sound for a long time and have gotten to be very proud of it. Now if I could just play ONE track without a mistake...
LOL As I read this, I was struck by how every single word resonates with me. I second this post--especially point #2 and the final comment!


