cephus
Slow Children Playing
i set the intonation with the saddles once and every time it needed tweaked since, I just push the entire bridge back and forth. UNless you pin them, they can slip slide around a little.
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ggunn
Crystal Flavolian
Once you get it in the right position, mix up a little epoxy and talcum powder to hold it in place...
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haymedic
New member
+1.
and the next time you pull out the wire cutters, you might want to consider cutting and replacing the strings one at a time. haha
if you need to borrow a blow torch and chisel to change the pickups, let me know.
don't worry... i pulled the same thing off when i got my gretsch... but i just used the excuse that i had to get the little piece of foam out from under the bridge! when i put it back on, i put the bridge on upside down. the saddles did quite a number to the paint job!
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haymedic
New member
also... if there is one thing i can't stand the sound of... it's a gretsch guitar with the bridge not lined up with the nicks. if i go to a show, and see a guitar without the bridge lined up to the nicks, i just turn around and walk right out. i know that if i stay i'll have a huge headache and sore ears from that poorly intonated piece of shite.
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getuhgrip
Bring Back Transfat!
getuhgrip
Bring Back Transfat!
Well, two things apply here: one - I learned something I wasn't aware of, and 2 - I wanted to remove the foam under the bridge anyway.
This whole thing kinda causes me to experiment a bit also. I'm gonna try both the f-hole thing, and the equadistant nut/12th-12th/ nut configs and see what I get.
Gonna save the torch heat up the tubes in my amp. I learned this trick on youtube where you lightly toast the tubes to get 'em to saturate quicker.
miroslav
Cosmic Cowboy
Not sure if this is a faux pas...but the way I do it on my floating bridge guitars is to first find the position and bridge angle that works best...
...then I mark the position of the corners of the bridge with a pencil, on the body (no harm comes to the body or finish).
Then I loosen the strings, remove the bridge and apply a light layer of white Elmer’s Glue to the base of the bridge and using the marks on the body, I place it in the correct position and slowly tighten the strings.
The small dab of Elmer's does NO damage to the body/finish, and does not permanently glue the bridge to the body...but it DOES keep the bridge in its proper place and from moving around during string changes or even lighter bumps while playing.
If you ever want to remove/adjust it...just push on it a bit harder and the light layer of Elmer's will give easily enough.
Additionally, the light layer of Elmer's helps fill out any micro-spaces between the bridge and body, giving a more even/solid contact area.
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Terry Wetzel
New member
I'm probably getting in late on this but,
Does the same bridge placement apply to Gretsch guitars? I own a Gretsch Electromatic, the cheapo made in Korea model. Don't laugh. I bought it at a local music store, used but in like new condition for $80. It had the Gretsch aluminum fixed bridge which I replaced with a tuneomatic. Since then I've had problems with inotation. The bridge has a tendency to lean forward at natural pitch tuning. Stewart McDonald sells a bridge positioning gauge which is supposed to put it exactly in the correct place but I'm sure the saddles would still need individual adjustment Your advice on this plese.
Does the same bridge placement apply to Gretsch guitars? I own a Gretsch Electromatic, the cheapo made in Korea model. Don't laugh. I bought it at a local music store, used but in like new condition for $80. It had the Gretsch aluminum fixed bridge which I replaced with a tuneomatic. Since then I've had problems with inotation. The bridge has a tendency to lean forward at natural pitch tuning. Stewart McDonald sells a bridge positioning gauge which is supposed to put it exactly in the correct place but I'm sure the saddles would still need individual adjustment Your advice on this plese.