Gretsch Catalina Club Jazz

DrummingGuitar

New member
Hey guys, I am looking for a set of drums for my home studio and saw a set of catalina club jazz drums for sell at a good price. I don't play jazz but mainly rock and I sometimes record soft rock with others. Will these drums suffice in the studio for this? I know that they have the catalina club rock but they are 200 more and I have a good deal on this used jazz set. Thanks in advance for the help. I have been stalking these forums for a while despite me just joining. There is a lot of useful info here
 
Our #1 kit at studio101nola.com is a Gretsch Catalina Maple kit- I've looked at the Jazz kit and like the smaller sizes it has. I think you can't go wrong with that kit.
 
Is that the one with the 18" kick? Meh. Unless you're playing really soft "jazzy" kind of stuff, you're gonna want a kick with more power. You said you're playing rock, and for most rock drummers, an 18" drum is a floor tom, not a kick. The smallish toms are fine, but that kick is gonna be a real weakness. I'd scrape up the extra 200 somehow and get the dimensionally bigger kit.
 
Is that the one with the 18" kick? Meh. Unless you're playing really soft "jazzy" kind of stuff, you're gonna want a kick with more power. You said you're playing rock, and for most rock drummers, an 18" drum is a floor tom, not a kick. The smallish toms are fine, but that kick is gonna be a real weakness. I'd scrape up the extra 200 somehow and get the dimensionally bigger kit.

So it won't be enough power even if the kick is miked? Sorry I am not very knowledgeable on this because up until now i've just used an electronic kit.
 
So it won't be enough power even if the kick is miked? Sorry I am not very knowledgeable on this because up until now i've just used an electronic kit.

An 18" kick will sound like an 18" kick. Kind of wimpy. Not terrible in some scenarios, but not right for rock. The diameter gives you the pitch. Bigger, more typical sized kicks - like 20" to 24" - have the low end punch to hold down the bottom end in typical rock songs. The depth matters too, but it's mostly the diameter. 18" kicks work for some styles and songs, but for rock, a 20"-24" would be better. Deeper, thumpier, more balls.
 
An 18" kick will sound like an 18" kick. Kind of wimpy. Not terrible in some scenarios, but not right for rock. The diameter gives you the pitch. Bigger, more typical sized kicks - like 20" to 24" - have the low end punch to hold down the bottom end in typical rock songs. The depth matters too, but it's mostly the diameter. 18" kicks work for some styles and songs, but for rock, a 20"-24" would be better. Deeper, thumpier, more balls.

Gotcha thanks. Is there anything used in the 500 or below you recommend?
 
Me personally, I don't get too caught up in brands and shell materials. If it's in decent shape and a major brand name, it'll be good enough.......provided you get the right sized drums. You probably won't find any DW's or Ludwigs that cheap, but you might find some Tamas, Pearls, or PDP's. Look for something with a 22" kick. That Gretsch kit you mentioned would be fine if it weren't for that floor-tom sized kick.
 
///That Gretsch kit you mentioned would be fine if it weren't for that floor-tom sized kick.

Even before I read that, I was thinking he should buy the Gretsch kit, and supplement it with a 20 or 22 kick drum, which could be had for less than $200.

Just a thought.
 
Even before I read that, I was thinking he should buy the Gretsch kit, and supplement it with a 20 or 22 kick drum, which could be had for less than $200.

Just a thought.
So far i am thinking that might be the best option. I don't really like the sound of other sets in that price range.
 
They also make a version with a kick that is 2" deeper. Would this help much?

I don't think so. The depth of the kick drum matters with resonance and projection, but not too much with pitch. Try to find a kit with a bigger diameter kick or get that kit you mentioned and a separate kick.
 
Shell depth will make the drum will make for a longer attack sound, because it takes the sound waves longer to reach the resonant head, but it will still sound like a jazz kick. If you can find a 20" kick that would be good. 20" is a really punchy kick and would work fine in rock, especially in the studio. 22" is a bit more versitile if you want to play in several styles.

you said you didn't like the sound of other kits in this price range. Just curious but what have you looked at? I know the Pearl Visions are a great deal in this catagory, and Tama just came out with a new line called Silverstar, and those were really good as well, although the heads aren't as good as what's offered on the Visions.
 
PDP's are pretty decent too and plentiful in that price range. Plan on probably changing the heads no matter what you get.
 
Shell depth will make the drum will make for a longer attack sound, because it takes the sound waves longer to reach the resonant head, but it will still sound like a jazz kick. If you can find a 20" kick that would be good. 20" is a really punchy kick and would work fine in rock, especially in the studio. 22" is a bit more versitile if you want to play in several styles.

you said you didn't like the sound of other kits in this price range. Just curious but what have you looked at? I know the Pearl Visions are a great deal in this catagory, and Tama just came out with a new line called Silverstar, and those were really good as well, although the heads aren't as good as what's offered on the Visions.
I've heard the pearl forum and export. And from the ones i heard i didn't really like the sound. I haven't really looked at the vision but will definitely give it a listen. From tama i heard i think one called the stagestar and thought that didn't sound very good. Then again i don't know what heads the people were using and the cymbals on the pearl export i heard were terrible. I appreciate all the help you guys have given to me, i'm pretty naive when it comes to drums and i'm just trying to retain all the info. I am more of a guitarist just coming into the "real" drumming world and finding out how darn expensive it can be.
 
and the cymbals on the pearl export i heard were terrible

You can't really judge a drumkit based on the cymbals. That's kinda like judging the steak based on the potatoes. If you've been testing kits out at the store, keep in mind, most kits on display aren't properly tuned and sound like shit. It's imperative you take a tuning key with you to make minor adjustments if you're serious about a certain kit.
 
And also, I find it a little hard to believe that you can't find anything you like in Tama, Pearl, and PDPs. Either you have an extremely high threshold when it comes to drums, or you haven't been listening to the right kits. You could buy the Jazz kit and replace the kick, or you could just buy a kit with a bigger kick.
 
And also, I find it a little hard to believe that you can't find anything you like in Tama, Pearl, and PDPs. Either you have an extremely high threshold when it comes to drums, or you haven't been listening to the right kits. You could buy the Jazz kit and replace the kick, or you could just buy a kit with a bigger kick.

Yeah i haven't been listening to the right kits. I went last night to a music store last and listened to a few more kits and liked them more. I think tuning might have something to do with it, i will definitely take a tuning key next time. I think also i didn't like many kits because most of the kits i was listening to were the ones listed on craiglist and a lot of the ones for sell on there are starter kits.
 
I've heard the pearl forum and export. And from the ones i heard i didn't really like the sound. I haven't really looked at the vision but will definitely give it a listen. From tama i heard i think one called the stagestar and thought that didn't sound very good. Then again i don't know what heads the people were using and the cymbals on the pearl export i heard were terrible. I appreciate all the help you guys have given to me, i'm pretty naive when it comes to drums and i'm just trying to retain all the info. I am more of a guitarist just coming into the "real" drumming world and finding out how darn expensive it can be.

forums, I believe are made with 100% poplar. Poplar is a non tonal wood so the shells can sound a little dead. People loved it on the old ludwigs when they used it as an inner ply with Maple, but it was more to stabalize the mid range tones to make the drums a little less ringy.

Exports have been discontinued since 2007 I believe. The older exports made with phillipine mohogany sounded great. Later they switched this out to poplar and they just didn't sound as good. Now the visions are made with birch, sound much better.

Stagestar is about equivalent to Pearl Forum (i.e. bottom of the line). The Swingstars are a mid range kit and are much better built, have better shell material.

Also keep in mind the cheaper the drum, the less accurate the bearing edge is. The bearing edge is the equivalent to a bridge on a guitar. This is where you get the majority of your tone from the head. You can get them recut if they're not accurate, but if your shelling out the money in the first place, better to have them done right the first time.

And yeah as someone mentioned check PDP. They're build to DW specs, but made in Mexico where the labor is cheaper. Some very good stuff I've seen from them.

Regarding cymbals, don't go cheap here. You're better to go out and buy some used Zildjian/Sabian/Paiste/Meinl than to buy anything that's a brass cymbal, or even B8 pro, ZBT, etc. If you must buy a student cymbal pack look at Sabian X's, Zildjian ZHT, and Paiste Alpha.

High quality cymbals are made with bell bronze or what they call B20 bronze (Zlidjian A, A Custom, K, K Custom, Z, Sabian AA,AAX,HH,HHX) Paiste and Meinl use B8 bronze (i.e. sheet metal), but their manufacturing process for these lines is much better than what Zildjian and Sabian do for their sheet cymbals. The B8 or B20, refers to the amount of tin in the alloy (i.e. B8 = 8% tin/92% copper, B20 = 20% tin/80% copper) My preference is for cast B20 cymbals (I play Zildjian K's), but there are good sounding Paiste's and Meinl's out there. Sabian X's are the only student model cast cymbal made, but they have a cheaper lathing process (what makes the grooves in a cymbal) and they are not hammered, so they vary wildly between the same model cymbal. Zildjian ZHT is a specialty B12 Bronze, and is a little less ultra high frequency than some of the other student model B8 cymbals.

As I said with cymbals my recomendation on a budget is buy used if you're on a budget, or shell out of a good quality cymbal pack. A new Zildjian A pack will run around $650, but you will get 14" hats, 20" ride, 16" crash, 18" crash and a cymbal bag. The other manufacturers have similar priced packages.
 
Good info from DenverDrummer.

I'm of the opinion that the shell material doesn't matter much. Birch, maple, poplar, oak, etc all have their own characteristics, but the type of wood isn't as critical to the overall sound as the bearing edge shape, type of heads you use, and how you choose to tune them. All woods will sound good when the heads are tuned properly and you must choose a head depending on how and the type of music you plan to play. Tuning and heads play a huge role. Poorly tuned clear G1's on a custom DW kit will sound like ass no matter how perfect the shells are or what they're made of.
 
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