Good CD-RW recommendation?

  • Thread starter Thread starter warble
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warble

warble

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Hey all-
I currently have a Yamaha CRW2200E (20/10/40) drive. It has worked like a rock for me, and I'm hoping I can use it to record CDR's to send out for mastering. Anyone using this drive or another drive with great success?

I guess my main concern is using a drive that will create reliable, and accurate CDR's. I'm thinking I need to record at lower than 4x speed for greater accuracy? Maybe 1x speed?

Thanks.

Warren
 
I think Yamaha's are pretty solid drives - I don't have one (I use Sony), but I think they make a quality product. I almost bought a Yamaha not too long ago.

Burning software has a lot to do with the quality of your burns as well.

I always burn audio at 1x. Any faster, and I sometimes get artifacts.

I burn data discs as fast as I can, but I always go 1x when burning an audio disc. Cuts down on the manufacture of studio coasters.


Brad
 
Yamaha CRW-F1 Blue Laser
Nero interface
I burn at 1x also...sometimes 4
Plextor make very good drives as well.
 
I was looking into the Yamaha CRW-F1, but they're not in ample supply it seems (at least at a decent price and most I've found are refurbs).

I do use Nero 6 for burning, but have used SF CD Architect as well. I imagine CDA would be good for my purpose?

Thanks for the replies so far...
 
Correct me if I am wrong, but I have the impression that the quality of your burnt CDR doesn't not really for mastering/replication, as there is a error correction process before it goes to glass mastering.

Your burnt quality will only matter if your burnt CDs goes straight to listeners...
 
I also use the Yamaha F1, I record at 8X in mastering mode (makes longer pits) was more expensive but worth it!
 
Two Yamahas here, one - like yours and 3200E.
The 3200 is quiter than 2200, and it has 4x Audio Master mode. None of the drives ever failed on me.
As it has been already mentioned here, unlike most todays cheap drives they have all speeds starting from 1x.
I have yet to came across media that these drives would refuse to work with. "Imation" brand appears to be the worst - I would get 1 bad disk out of about 30 burns.
 
Just a question about the Yamaha "Audio Master" stuff: does it matter if you send out that master CD for duplication, etc? I understand the technology of the burning, but if I made a bit for bit copy of that Yamaha Audio Master burned disc on another CDRW drive, would it burn the pits and landing like the Yamaha did?

Hope that makes sense....in other words, is there really an advantage to the Audio Master burning of the Yamaha's? Same thing with Plexor, they have some kind of special recording mode too that is suppose to create more compatible, and better burned CD's

Warren
 
So far as brands, I have no problem recomending Plextor, TDK, or Liteton. I have no experiance with Yamaha.
 
I have 100% satisfactory experience with the TDK Velo series burners. As of this writing, they are $65 after rebate at Best Buy.

I've owned multiple Yamaha burners in the past, and still own them. They work very well, but are harder/pricier to find.
 
bgavin said:
I have 100% satisfactory experience with the TDK Velo series burners. As of this writing, they are $65 after rebate at Best Buy.

I've owned multiple Yamaha burners in the past, and still own them. They work very well, but are harder/pricier to find.

I heard TDKs are actually Lite-Ons or Plextors anyway, don't know if that's true or not.

I love Lite-Ons, they are fantastic drives for the dough.
 
That could be true. The thing is, those companies sell the complete driver-platform(plans or completed product), with all the electronics and software designed. The other company puts it name on it, and markets it as it's own product.

They all use chipsets of the same companies too. I used to test those chips. -shiver- About a year ago... -shiver again-

All I can say is DON'T get a philips. They suck. The site where they used to design them closed down(because they were the main reason for sucking :rolleyes: about 1500 people on the street, and I KNEW that was comming all along, they just sucked all along.)
I don't know which site is doing the design now, but I don't think they got up to the point where companies as plextor are (that just buy the chipsets from philips or the concurrent and design their own software).

Plextor is good, I don't know about the others. I banned all that out of my memory. BAD memories. Think good. Think jamfest. aaaaaah
 
warble said:
Just a question about the Yamaha "Audio Master" stuff: does it matter if you send out that master CD for duplication, etc? I understand the technology of the burning, but if I made a bit for bit copy of that Yamaha Audio Master burned disc on another CDRW drive, would it burn the pits and landing like the Yamaha did?

Hope that makes sense....in other words, is there really an advantage to the Audio Master burning of the Yamaha's? Same thing with Plexor, they have some kind of special recording mode too that is suppose to create more compatible, and better burned CD's

Warren

"Audio Master" is just a brand name of the process. I think it is very possible that Plextor does essentially the same thing with minor technical differences to avoid patent infringement, and calls it differently.
"Audio Master" involves hardware and software processes. For example Nero version, that came with 3200 drive was specifically tailored for that drive. When I tried to use this drive under generic Nero, the drive worked, but the "Audio Master" mode did not appear in the options.
On the hardware side, the drive needs to be capable of doing longer lands and pits. Therefore, if you dub a disc using a regular burner, all your ones and zeros will be faithfully reproduced, but lands and pits will be burned of standard size.
I think.
How does it sound, you may ask. Again, my personal opinion: it sounds smoother with lower bass. Is it better sound or not? It depends on the type of music and there is no simple answer. Some songs I liked more with "Audio Master", some - not. I think good analogy would be a distortion, which you may use in one song, and completely avoid in another.
 
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