Ghost Wind-noise on condenser microphone

S

skuan893

New member
Have been using a blue spark condenser mic for the past two years or so. had no problems till recently. when i boost the gain to usable levels i hear very bad wind noise that peaks the mic. Here's an audio sample.
View attachment Noise.mp3

The noise clip is only during the first 25 secs. Normal expected sounds are the clock ticking in the background and the hum from my aircond. The issue is the intermittent buffeting noise (as if there was a gust of wind), any ideas?
 
The drop' out is similar but none the low or sub' frequencies you get when a condenser sees even just a bit of breeze. (Is the mic's low filter on?
Try lightly blowing at it- same same?

Hello by the way
 
No the low cut filter isn't on. The mic registers wind noise when I blow lightly but no clipping. Drop outs are still there and comes at random. I read somewhere that this could be due to a damp diaphragm? Tried storing the mic in a very dry cabinet with loads of silica gel but the problem is still there.

Thanks for the quick response. Any ideas on what I can do to resolve this issue? It renders most of my takes on this mic useless due to the clipping, really frustrating
 
Noises on condenser mics are usually (but not restricted to) Bad Phantom (funny I watched Bad Santa again on the weekend) which can be caused by a connection in the mic cable XLR's sometimes a bit dirty. Cheap mic cables insulation breaking down, Humidity on the mic capsule, Bad capacitors in the mic.

Have you got a different mic cable to try? Can you put the mic in a warm dry place for 24 hours?

Cheers
Alan.

Oh and ghosts.
 
Dude this is EXACTLY the same problem i was having with my condensor for a while, then it turned into a much worse squeeling sound intermittantly, which i posted about a few days ago. Never been able to work out the problem, if you find out PLEASE lemme know, its so bloody frustrating because you just never know when it'll appear and when it'll go away. I've tried different cables, so its not that.. unless the connection problem is at the mic itself. I notice the drop outs if even the slightest breathe hits the diaphram too, not sure if thats a normal symptom or just condensor mics in general. Both my stereo project mics have this ghost wind problem, tho if I swap them when the noise is happening sometimes the problem goes away.. so it makes me think its not the USB interface, but an intermittent mic problem.

final note.. if i cut power to my usb interface, my monitors will actually release a similar squeal.. which makes me think its a power related problem.. capacitors maybe?

Do you get this squeal too? Im quite certain ghost wind and the squeal are related.

my post:
https://homerecording.com/bbs/general-discussions/newbies/what-squeeeeeling-350528/
 
Hi guys
I had this phantom wind noise and it was something on the PCB that was kaput.

Dags
 
Yeah, there's got to be something wrong when you crank the gain on the pre and the mic picks up every little thing. Or there's nothing wrong at all.
 
Hegs said:
what is the PCB and is it fixable? cheaply?
Click to expand...

Not to be snarky but if you have to ask "what is the PCB?" then you can't fix it yourself, and therefore it can't be fixed "cheaply."

That's assuming it isn't one of the other suggested problems.

Also, if the mic has been in a damp environment, try taking the mic into a dryer part of the building for a day or two and try again.
 
Hi Hegs (and Skuan who made the initial posting)
The PCB is the Printed Circuit Board inside the condenser mic and unfortunately only the company or a repair agency of the company will be able to get a replacement unit.
I was lucky in that the mics were still under warranty so the PCB replacement was covered.
Get it sent off to be fixed if it is still under warranty.
Or if it isn't under warranty and you paid less than $200 for the mic, buy another one as the repair cost will likely be around the same price as buying a new one.

Dags
 
Dags said:
Hi Hegs (and Skuan who made the initial posting)
The PCB is the Printed Circuit Board inside the condenser mic and unfortunately only the company or a repair agency of the company will be able to get a replacement unit.
I was lucky in that the mics were still under warranty so the PCB replacement was covered.
Get it sent off to be fixed if it is still under warranty.
Or if it isn't under warranty and you paid less than $200 for the mic, buy another one as the repair cost will likely be around the same price as buying a new one.

Dags
Click to expand...

@Hegs I guess I was being snarky after all. :-O

Thanks Dags for being more civil.

If there is an issue on the PCB, repair may not necessarily be difficult if you're handy with a soldering iron and the problem is obvious (cold solder joint on a wire, detached wire, visually obvious bad component.) However, troubleshooting if the defect isn't obvious may be more trouble than it is worth, even if you had the test equipment you'd need to troubleshoot, and you'd also more likely need a schematic which may or may not be easily available. Otherwise you'd be left with warranty service as Dags indicated. Depending on the warranty/non-warranty vs repair/new mic cost breakdown, you may still be able to sell the non-working microphone to someone looking for a "donor body" for a mic project. But make sure you follow all of the troubleshooting suggestions made above first.
 
Dags said:
Or if it isn't under warranty and you paid less than $200 for the mic, buy another one as the repair cost will likely be around the same price as buying a new one.
Click to expand...
If I had this problem, the last thing I would do is buy another one just like it. The fact that a $200 dollar mic comes with a wood case, shockmount, and pop filter tells you that the mic itself is worth even less than you think. (no offense, just brutal reality)

For $200 bucks you can do a LOT better. An AT 2020 would be a far better bargian than this blue mic......but that's just my opinion and a topic for a different thread. Don't buy another blue, whatever you do.
 
I had this issue before with a bad m-audio interface, managed to narrow it down to a certain pre-amp that was defective. As said before it could also be the cable or the phantom power going to all pre-amps.

Hope that helps!
 
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