M
MCRhythm
New member
I am looking for information on the best way to get my vinyl and audio cassettes to CDs. I have an external Sony CD Writer. Would appreciate any advice. Thanks
L
lkmuller
New member
Hi,
I just got through writing you a detailed description of how to do this, and I pressed a key and lost it! Aauuuurrrgh!!
ANYWAY, I've transfered vinyl to CD with pretty good results, using techniques I've picked up on the web, and I'll try to share them with you. Here is the process I've been using. Realize, however, that there may be better or more efficient ways of doing this, but this is the way that I've learned and it works for me.
1. CLEAN THE RECORD - Most important step! Use a solution of isopropyl alcohol/distilled water (half and half). Wet a soft cloth to the point where it's dripping, than wipe the record in a circular motion, being careful to avoid wetting the label. Rinse with another soft cloth soaked in distilled water, then let dry (a plastic dishrack would be perfect). You'll be amazed at how many "clicks" and "pops" you'll eliminate with this simple step.
2. CONNECT THE TURNTABLE - You'll need to connect your turntable to your computer. It should be connected to the "input" of your soundcard in the back of the computer. Remember, turntables need a preamp, so if your turntable isn't powered, you'll need to connect to an amplifier, than connect the amplifier to the input of your souncard. I got my connections from Radio Shack - just tell them what you need, they'll get it for you. (you'll probably need a cord with 2 RCA jacks on one end, and a stereo 1/8" jack on the other)
3. RECORD THE MUSIC - I use a program called "Cool Edit" to record the music from the vinyl, but any any recording program would do. Cool Edit is just really simple. Just remember to record the music as "hot" as possible. In other words, as loud as you can without the meter going into the red. If you have a hard time doing this, you can always use a process called "normalizing" later (found in most recording programs).
4. CLEAN THE MUSIC UP - Once the music is recorded (it should now be a wave file), I use a process within Cool Edit called "noise reduction" to get rid of any clicks, pops or hisses that may still be there.
5. PUT THE WAVE FILES ONTO THE CD WITH YOUR BURNER SOFTWARE.
That should do it. Now I gotta tell you, the easiest way to listen to vinyl recordings on CD is to buy a remastered version already on CD. But if you can't, and the recording on the vinyl is special to you, than this is the way to go.
Good luck, let me know how it turns out.
Lee Muller
http://leemuller.iuma.com
I just got through writing you a detailed description of how to do this, and I pressed a key and lost it! Aauuuurrrgh!!
ANYWAY, I've transfered vinyl to CD with pretty good results, using techniques I've picked up on the web, and I'll try to share them with you. Here is the process I've been using. Realize, however, that there may be better or more efficient ways of doing this, but this is the way that I've learned and it works for me.
1. CLEAN THE RECORD - Most important step! Use a solution of isopropyl alcohol/distilled water (half and half). Wet a soft cloth to the point where it's dripping, than wipe the record in a circular motion, being careful to avoid wetting the label. Rinse with another soft cloth soaked in distilled water, then let dry (a plastic dishrack would be perfect). You'll be amazed at how many "clicks" and "pops" you'll eliminate with this simple step.
2. CONNECT THE TURNTABLE - You'll need to connect your turntable to your computer. It should be connected to the "input" of your soundcard in the back of the computer. Remember, turntables need a preamp, so if your turntable isn't powered, you'll need to connect to an amplifier, than connect the amplifier to the input of your souncard. I got my connections from Radio Shack - just tell them what you need, they'll get it for you. (you'll probably need a cord with 2 RCA jacks on one end, and a stereo 1/8" jack on the other)
3. RECORD THE MUSIC - I use a program called "Cool Edit" to record the music from the vinyl, but any any recording program would do. Cool Edit is just really simple. Just remember to record the music as "hot" as possible. In other words, as loud as you can without the meter going into the red. If you have a hard time doing this, you can always use a process called "normalizing" later (found in most recording programs).
4. CLEAN THE MUSIC UP - Once the music is recorded (it should now be a wave file), I use a process within Cool Edit called "noise reduction" to get rid of any clicks, pops or hisses that may still be there.
5. PUT THE WAVE FILES ONTO THE CD WITH YOUR BURNER SOFTWARE.
That should do it. Now I gotta tell you, the easiest way to listen to vinyl recordings on CD is to buy a remastered version already on CD. But if you can't, and the recording on the vinyl is special to you, than this is the way to go.
Good luck, let me know how it turns out.
Lee Muller
http://leemuller.iuma.com
S
Scheisskopf99
New member
See here
Everything you need to know about transfers you can find here: http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~abcomp/lp-cdr.htm
Everything you need to know about transfers you can find here: http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~abcomp/lp-cdr.htm
M
MCRhythm
New member
I have tried to access the following site since yesterday morning and it is either down or no longer a working site http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~abcomp/lp-cdr.htm. Does anyone have any further info about this site? Thanks
S
Scheisskopf99
New member
Its the period
The period at the end of the link is not supposed to be part of the link. Try it with the period removed. Sorry.
The period at the end of the link is not supposed to be part of the link. Try it with the period removed. Sorry.
M
MCRhythm
New member
Not the Period
The link is not up. I have tried it many times without the period. I also found the link on other pages I have visited and it is not working. Must be down or out...
The link is not up. I have tried it many times without the period. I also found the link on other pages I have visited and it is not working. Must be down or out...
S
Scheisskopf99
New member
Works for me
I have no problems with the site. Try one more time: http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~abcomp/lp-cdr.htm
I have no problems with the site. Try one more time: http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~abcomp/lp-cdr.htm
S
sagwayman
New member
vinyl to CD / analog to digital poping,
Yes the site worked fine for me too.
I'm trying to copy my vinyl to CD or MP3's.
WHAT IS THE CAUSE, of a regular "poping sound" that's clearly above and beyond the "surface" noise on the record, is in fact RYTHMIC in it's consistancy and, AND, SEEMS to get proportionately worse with the level of surface noise.
Again this DIFFERENT from and in addition to the normal surface noise but does seem to be "triggered" by it....
Yes the site worked fine for me too.
I'm trying to copy my vinyl to CD or MP3's.
WHAT IS THE CAUSE, of a regular "poping sound" that's clearly above and beyond the "surface" noise on the record, is in fact RYTHMIC in it's consistancy and, AND, SEEMS to get proportionately worse with the level of surface noise.
Again this DIFFERENT from and in addition to the normal surface noise but does seem to be "triggered" by it....
M
MCRhythm
New member
I tried it tonight and it worked. I do not know why I could not get the site to open previously. There is a lot of good advice in there. Thank you to all.
SPINSTERWUN
Active member
A word to the wise....DO NOT USE ALCOHOL ON YOUR RECORDS!!!
Even if you dilute it with water, you run the risk of f#%!ing up/damaging your records.
Also, Radio Shack is the WORST place to buy ANY electronic equipment, cables, cords, adapters, etc.
lkmuller provided you all with solid advice, but I reiterate the fact that you should not use Isopropyl alcohol on records (I've been DJ'ing for 18 years.)
Peace
SPIN
Even if you dilute it with water, you run the risk of f#%!ing up/damaging your records.
Also, Radio Shack is the WORST place to buy ANY electronic equipment, cables, cords, adapters, etc.
lkmuller provided you all with solid advice, but I reiterate the fact that you should not use Isopropyl alcohol on records (I've been DJ'ing for 18 years.)
Peace
SPIN
L
lkmuller
New member
Hello Spinsterwun,
Gee, thanks for the heads up on the alcohol. Let me clear something up first - you're right about alcohol not being good for records, but only certain records - SHELLAC BASED 78s. So if anyone out there wants to clean shellac based 78s, don't use an alcohol based solution.
I'm just going to list two links right now, but can give you more if you'de like, all recommending isopropyl alcohol and water to clean records. The first is http://www.musicfinder.com ,they deal in vintage records and clean them for a living (but maybe for not as long as you've been spinning them). The second link is http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/fluids.html . You see, that's how I learned about cleaning solutions for vinyl - I researched it out.
As far as Radio Shack being the worst place to buy any kind of cables or electronic equipment, I have to admit that they do not carry monster cables or anything of that caliber. BUT, to record a 45 minute vinyl onto a computer? Their cables will suffice.
Anyway, don't get me wrong, I don't want to get into a debate about old records. Just wanted to let you know where I get my info from.
Aloha and Happy New year to all.
Gee, thanks for the heads up on the alcohol. Let me clear something up first - you're right about alcohol not being good for records, but only certain records - SHELLAC BASED 78s. So if anyone out there wants to clean shellac based 78s, don't use an alcohol based solution.
I'm just going to list two links right now, but can give you more if you'de like, all recommending isopropyl alcohol and water to clean records. The first is http://www.musicfinder.com ,they deal in vintage records and clean them for a living (but maybe for not as long as you've been spinning them). The second link is http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/fluids.html . You see, that's how I learned about cleaning solutions for vinyl - I researched it out.
As far as Radio Shack being the worst place to buy any kind of cables or electronic equipment, I have to admit that they do not carry monster cables or anything of that caliber. BUT, to record a 45 minute vinyl onto a computer? Their cables will suffice.
Anyway, don't get me wrong, I don't want to get into a debate about old records. Just wanted to let you know where I get my info from.
Aloha and Happy New year to all.
S
sagwayman
New member
Vinyl to CD copies
IMHO one the best things you can do which I've never seen ANYONE else mention is this. If you have even the SLIGHTEST doubt as the condition/amount of wear, or even just the original quality of your phonograph catridge/stylus, then GET A NEW ONE. Give your old vinyl the best possible leg-up. Don't spend less than $40.00 If $40 hurts you might just stay with whatever you have now unsless it's REALLY shot, in which case you find a $30 upgrade worth doing but that's as cheap as they get. Here's a good site to get one on-line if you think you need one.
http://www.lylecartridges.com/phonocartridges/
Don't even look at anything except STANTON, SURE or AUDIO TECHNICA. You won't even believe the prices on those other ones. I know I didn't///
IMHO one the best things you can do which I've never seen ANYONE else mention is this. If you have even the SLIGHTEST doubt as the condition/amount of wear, or even just the original quality of your phonograph catridge/stylus, then GET A NEW ONE. Give your old vinyl the best possible leg-up. Don't spend less than $40.00 If $40 hurts you might just stay with whatever you have now unsless it's REALLY shot, in which case you find a $30 upgrade worth doing but that's as cheap as they get. Here's a good site to get one on-line if you think you need one.
http://www.lylecartridges.com/phonocartridges/
Don't even look at anything except STANTON, SURE or AUDIO TECHNICA. You won't even believe the prices on those other ones. I know I didn't///
M
MCRhythm
New member
Thanks for all of your advice.
I have downloaded the demo version of Cool Edit 2000 and have tried to record off of an audio cassette. It recorded about 30 seconds of music and stopped. I know that there is a timed record but have searched the preferences and do not see where to turn it off if that is the culprit. I also do not see where to get rid of the hisses.
I recorded the song via Windows Sound Recorder and got the wav file on my hard drive. I opened the wav file and in Cool Edit, attempted a run at noise reduction. What was left was somewhat of a trembling vocal with little music. Is this because it is the demo version? When I open it it only allows me to select 2 of the options at a time. Can I get rid of the hissing as I record or should I do that after it is recorded?
Also, is there a better editing software?
Thanks!
I have downloaded the demo version of Cool Edit 2000 and have tried to record off of an audio cassette. It recorded about 30 seconds of music and stopped. I know that there is a timed record but have searched the preferences and do not see where to turn it off if that is the culprit. I also do not see where to get rid of the hisses.
I recorded the song via Windows Sound Recorder and got the wav file on my hard drive. I opened the wav file and in Cool Edit, attempted a run at noise reduction. What was left was somewhat of a trembling vocal with little music. Is this because it is the demo version? When I open it it only allows me to select 2 of the options at a time. Can I get rid of the hissing as I record or should I do that after it is recorded?
Also, is there a better editing software?
Thanks!
M
MCRhythm
New member
Okay I now can record an entire song using Cool Edit. I am currently working with an audio cassette not an LP and find that no matter how I adjust the recording levels in the Windows mixer I am getting that noise--can't quite describe it--that I have heard many times before when recording onto cassettes where the volume is too loud and the music or vocals bounce back at you. It is not throughout the entire song only when the song gets loud especially at the end of the bar. I do notice the red bars on the bottom of the Cool Edit screen are at times going all the way across even when I have the volume at 5. Any suggestions for eliminating this?
I haven't tried to reduce this noise once the file is recorded. As I stated in my previous post the noise reduction feature took away most of the music... Maybe I am doing this incorrectly. I am working on it!
I haven't tried to reduce this noise once the file is recorded. As I stated in my previous post the noise reduction feature took away most of the music... Maybe I am doing this incorrectly. I am working on it!
L
lkmuller
New member
McRhythm,
I think you need to cut down the output from the cassette side. There are no level controls in Cool Edit. I'm not sure how effective the controls in the windows mixer are, but I know if you cut back on the output from the cassette, the level meter on the bottom of the screen in Cool Edit won't peak out like they're doing now.
As far as the noise reduction - did you get a noise profile before you applied the reduction? Also , try reducing the level 5% at first, then maybe 10%, and so on. Eventually you will reach a point where it's sounding bad (around 25%+). Read the help file about where to get the noise profile from.
Hope this helps. Keep trying, the results will be worth it. It's worked for many of us out here and it will work for you.
I think you need to cut down the output from the cassette side. There are no level controls in Cool Edit. I'm not sure how effective the controls in the windows mixer are, but I know if you cut back on the output from the cassette, the level meter on the bottom of the screen in Cool Edit won't peak out like they're doing now.
As far as the noise reduction - did you get a noise profile before you applied the reduction? Also , try reducing the level 5% at first, then maybe 10%, and so on. Eventually you will reach a point where it's sounding bad (around 25%+). Read the help file about where to get the noise profile from.
Hope this helps. Keep trying, the results will be worth it. It's worked for many of us out here and it will work for you.
S
sagwayman
New member
Hiss and Over Modulation
McRythm, the single best way to reduce hiss, without losing fidelety in the bargan is to maximize your levels. But if your already OVERMODULATING, which it sounds like you are, then you need to pull it back a bit. I'm not familure with "COOL EDIT" but it's probably designed without level control because it's expected to react just fine to the Windows (or your sound-card's own), mixer, there should be a slider for the "AUX" or "line-in" or whatever your using to connect the external source. I use Sound Forge, which is pretty "high-speed" (not shareware) and IT doesn't have any internal level control EITHER but since it responds just fine to the "system" mixer, doesn't need one. Back the Hiss, all after-the fact filters are just that, FILTERS and will always, proportionately, take the sound quality down with the hiss. Usually the best answer is let it fly untouched, and fix it at listening time with good-ol' Mr.Trebble control. I will say this, DOLBY-3 is probably the best noise reduction for tape that wasn't a straight filter process. SO IF, your cassettes were recorded with the DOLBY ON, (which they should have been) the best thing you can do is playback-when-recording with the DOLBY ON.
Especially if you're having problems with excessive hiss. And lastly, if way-back-when, you saved a few-bucks by buying "normal bias" tapes, be prepaired to pretty much bite the bullet on hiss now. Good high-bias, Crome or metal tapes are well worth the investment. Short-term or years later.
McRythm, the single best way to reduce hiss, without losing fidelety in the bargan is to maximize your levels. But if your already OVERMODULATING, which it sounds like you are, then you need to pull it back a bit. I'm not familure with "COOL EDIT" but it's probably designed without level control because it's expected to react just fine to the Windows (or your sound-card's own), mixer, there should be a slider for the "AUX" or "line-in" or whatever your using to connect the external source. I use Sound Forge, which is pretty "high-speed" (not shareware) and IT doesn't have any internal level control EITHER but since it responds just fine to the "system" mixer, doesn't need one. Back the Hiss, all after-the fact filters are just that, FILTERS and will always, proportionately, take the sound quality down with the hiss. Usually the best answer is let it fly untouched, and fix it at listening time with good-ol' Mr.Trebble control. I will say this, DOLBY-3 is probably the best noise reduction for tape that wasn't a straight filter process. SO IF, your cassettes were recorded with the DOLBY ON, (which they should have been) the best thing you can do is playback-when-recording with the DOLBY ON.
Especially if you're having problems with excessive hiss. And lastly, if way-back-when, you saved a few-bucks by buying "normal bias" tapes, be prepaired to pretty much bite the bullet on hiss now. Good high-bias, Crome or metal tapes are well worth the investment. Short-term or years later.