"Floating" assembly sections

  • Thread starter Thread starter RICK FITZPATRICK
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RICK FITZPATRICK

RICK FITZPATRICK

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Can anyone provide a link to or information about the correct way to detail the intersection points at wall to wall, floor to wall, ceiling to wall, using resiliant channel? I'm looking for actual section/details at these points. I am also wondering about what
"floating" really refers to. In my mind, a floating ceiling means a suspended ceiling structure that actually "floats between walls, with acoustic/kinetic isolators on the suspension mechanics. Not resting on the wall plates like conventional building. All I have found is Auralux's details, but they suggest resting the wall floor plate, and ceiling joist/perimeter rafter, on a 1/8" rubber strip isolator. That really doesn't seem like "floating" to me. Maybe the wall. But even if you used these techniques, how would you fasten them togeather. As soon as you put a nail or screw/bolt through both assemblys, it seems that you then negate any floating or seperation of the assemblys. I have absolutely NO EXPERIENCE at this, but would like to see these details. There is absolutely none that I can find. Unless these are architectural acoustical "secrets", and are prized by thier designers, or are patented, or some such reason. I see architectural details for MACYS all the time, and some of these CANNOT be reprinted by anyone, without express written consent from FEDERATED. So that tells me something. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
fitz:)
 
Rick,
Go to http://www.owenscorning.com/around/sound/products/pdfs/Install.pdf . Look at the vertical wall drawing on the right a couple of inches down. Keep in mind they're talking about their resilient wall stud. Think of your stud as being nailed to top and bottom plates like the drawing. Your resilient channel would cross your studs horizontally. The sheetrock would be screwed to the resilient channel. The top/bottom of the sheetrock wouldn't touch the top or bottom plates. These small gaps would be caulked. Of course with a staggered stud wall you would use resilient channels on both sides of the wall if desired.

I know that didn't really answer your question. Just my spin. I found some material about a month ago that you place between the studs and sheetrock to block sound transmission into the studs. It's a 1" wide polymer strip with adhesive on both sides. No nailing I assume. They didn't say in so many words. They also had some type of polymer squares you would attach to the backside of the sheetrock to dampen resonent frequencies. They'll send a sample also. Here's the website if you're interested http://www.asc-soundproof.com/

DD

DD
 
appreciation day declared

Thanks, thanks thanks, thats all I can say:D
fitz
 
Rick, here's another site that may interest you - go here -

http://www.kineticsnoise.com/architect.html

and click the "choose one" drop-down box; don't brouse around any other parts of the site, or I'll have to kill you :=)

seriously, if you ask, they will have one of their closest dealers contact you. never hurts to talk to people... Steve
 
Wow, the real stuff

What are you guys trying to do, scare the crap out of me, or slap me in the face with this?LOL
Too good. I saw some of this kinetics stuff back in 82', in a obscure studio book that fell into my possession.(lord forbid, thats what got me started on this journey!) It described some of these things then, so they must have been really new then. Thankyou very much. I don't mean to be so pushy here. I know this is a public forum, and I should be more "chilled" and laidback. I've been trying to get my studio built for a long time, and just now it seems possible. And its not even for making money. Just self satisfaction that I could do it. My way. By myself.
Hey, I steve, I read your posts on Tascams Digital Mixer delima last night.(I am very interested in the DM-24, but maybe go frederics route. $ is what will determine it. Its only for my own fun anyway. But that is one hell of a debate with Tascam about this.
And frankly, you remind me of myself when it comes to these kind of things. I've got a bone to pick with Lexicon right now. But they don't give a damn. I'm sorry about my little dig on you with the "evil eye" thing. No big deal.(I gave into potshot syndrome and I shouldn't lower myself to the ability to hide behind the net) I don't know if you ever read the post to you about Oregon. I'm getting ready to move there soon.
Digital Dan-I like the acronym. And thanks both of you for the help.
Say gentleman, I know this isn't the place for this, but I would like to talk to you if you outside of the forum if you don't mind. May I email you? I just don't like to discuss irrelevant issues here. I'm sure you understand. If not, thats OK. I have a proposal I would like your opinion on, but not here. Ok, till next time, lets see- gap #40933 in the "knowledge search filled..gap #40932 commin up!!! BTW, are either of you musicians?
(or is that another "dumb question" candidate?)
fitz:D
 
Rick,
Sure no problem. Go to my "profile". There's a place you can click on to send an email. Gotta warn you though - no multilevel, buying or selling, etc. My email block list is well over 10,000 I'm sure (75 to 100 daily spams).

DD
 
Not sure if you need this at this point but the US Gypsum website has an online construction handbook with a section on "Resilient Framing". They talk about the proper construction of all joints and have a few schematics. I've found it a good source. They also give details on two-ply construction if you need it.

http://www.usg.com/

Alex
 
Thanks Alex. I'm in the process of printing it out now (all 538 pages - I want it all). My printer?? Of course not - at work.
 
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