"Who looks in a freezer for gear?" - A hungry burglar??!? :=)
I agree about the isolation; I ran a (pretty non-scientific) test last year on this; I cleared a shelf in my frig, set a boom box inside (playing on batteries, no cord messing up the door seal) and, with the door open, cranked it til my spl meter read 90 dB(C) on peaks; then, without moving anything, I closed the door (typical newer magnetic seal) and dropped the spl to 54 dB(C) - so we're looking at 36 dB reduction (YMMV, of course)
I posted this info here probably a year ago in response to a similar question, along with SoMM's basic recommendations, but the whole thing's probably lost in the ether somewhere; in addition to SoMM's suggestions, I'd look for a large enough (inside measurements) box to have room for some thick rockwool instead of the foam;
Also, if you can get a FREEZER that's no longer alive, ditch the compressor and extra crap, and lay the box on its BACK; this lets you put the (reasonable sized, NOT
Marshall double stack) amp near one end, and have plenty of room for some space between the mic and the speaker, and plenty of insulation to kill the high frequency flutter, modal problems, etc -
The reason for a freezer instead of a frig; all one area inside, better sound, more room. The downside to a full size box (instead of a "dorm" size one) is obviously floor space, so if you're cramped this won't work...
Reason for laying the box on its back - you can open the door (may need a prop stick or something while it's open) and arrange amp, speaker, mic, etc, without disturbing anything else; then, when you lower the door, everything inside will stay as it was; plus, gravity helps the magnetic seal work a bit better (no, I don't have measurements on this part :=)
Keep in mind when shopping for a "boutique" amp with low wattage - THERE AREN'T ANY??!?
OK, let me clarify that - it takes 10 TIMES as many watts to get 6 dB louder - so, going the other way, dropping from 50 watts to 5 watts only lowers the SPL by 6 dB; if the 50 watter can play 100 dB (at "11" for best crunch) then the 5 watter will STILL be (under the same settings) at 94 dB - then, a HALF-watt amp would crank out 88 dB at full volume...
I've seen one little "boutique" (spelled E-X-P-E-N-S-I-V-E) amp, forget where, that put out 1/4 watt and cost something like $600 or something - just plain ridiculous. So, unless you're rich enough to afford real roadies and RBDG for your studio design, the box approach makes a lot more sense in most cases.
After listening to a few "V-amps" (no, not
Behringer; couple of pods, 3 by Digitech) I've come to the conclusion that one of the things missing is what you bought the sim box for in the first place - REAL interaction between room, guitar, and speaker. without this variable, I've not heard an amp sim that really brings it home. I've seen posts by a couple other guys who've experimented with this; concensus was that an amp sim sounds fine, as long as you RUN IT THROUGH SPEAKERS AND MIC THE SPEAKERS ??!?... (Can you say, "Guitar Amplifier"...) kinda defeats the purpose, no?
So, is using an amp sim and running it through speakers and micing it a total waste of time? Nooo, if you don't need much isolation and DO want a plethora (sometimes a plethora and a half :=) of tonal choices, and STILL want something that's portable enough to throw in a bag and stay mobile, and that you can use to blow your own brains out at 2 AM using phones...
What's the point of all this freakin' rambling? Damned if I know... Steve