Ebonol fingerboards

  • Thread starter Thread starter notCardio
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notCardio

I walk the line
Anybody got one?

How do they hold up?

How do you clean them?
 
I've tried them, and I didn't like them. They lack the beauty and depth of real ebony, and working them was unpleasant. I don't use them. I usually go with Maccassar Ebony, which has more color variation than most ebony, which as far as I'm concerned makes it much more beautiful, and it is also more avalible, so you can easily get quartersawn blanks. The more traditional ebony is pretty much impossible to get quartersawn fingerboards any more.



Light

"Cowards can never be moral."
M.K. Gandhi
 
Well, thanks, but

I was actually looking for more from a playing/owning perspective than a building perspective. I'm not looking to make one using ebonol, I just thought about buying one that has it, and wondered if they get chewed up really fast, or get gunky or something.

But thanks for the reply, I'm all for any info anyone wants to throw out there.
 
I don't recommend them if you have sweaty hands. If you don't like finished maple fretboards you won't like ebonol either.

Ebonol doesn't add much to the structural integrity of the neck. Ebony and Rosewood do. That's not an issue if the neck is well constructed and the truss rod is adjustable.

That said I have played a few handbuilt guitars made with ebonol and phenolic(if that's not the same thing). They have held up well, and they hold frets fine.

I'm with Light. Macasser ebony is my favorite. But Madagascar Rosewood, Pau Ferro, and most of the other rosewood substitutes work fine. If you want to get really fancy, try Ziricote.
 
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