DYN5A and YSM1

[CoolCat]

8hrs: 22min-

Power won't be an issue.
Yorks are way..... loud enough for a HR room.

RTA will be done.
the BW303 were done recently and pretty damn flat 100hz to 12-14K without a sub. Sub can filled 70-100hz hole.
this is why i bought the RTA setup, to see whats "flat".
so an RTA is a start...my "room tuner"...
it ain't perfect but helps get a novice in the ballpark.

Active versus Passive:
my ears aren't tuned enough to hear the difference between an Active XO and a Passive XO.
like gasoline...you know the cleaner stuff helps, but you can go 55mph with either kind.
On a human note...Actives can really clean up the wires, the clutter.
Passives are 50% cheaper upgrade...this is a tuff decision.


Merry Christmas and Jolly socks to you all.

 

[CoolCat]

Well, the YSM1P's looked very good under the RTA.
still falling off around 100hz, which was discussed on another thread recently about 6" drivers.
Throwing my sub in and out with the yorks, it didn't seem to be worth it. uncontrollable past 60-70hz...in my room anyway..YMMV.

there was the 150hz bump ~6db, dropped 4db but down to 65hz, 6db 50hz.
which i considered good, my little BW303 drop off from 100hz pretty steep, the Yorks didn't drop so steeply.

RTA:
RTA was easy and difficult. It was easy as nothing was needed to obtain a good graph with the Yorkies.
It was tuff as i couldn't get a 150hz bump out, small bump...probably my room, most likely? the switches on the back were for very subtle changes and i couldn't hear them much.

one shows ysm1p standard.
one sh jpg. shows the 150hz pulled down with 150hx EQ cut Q16 will do it.

for $380 pair Active, pretty impressed still.

 

[bleyrad]

Seems like your room is having a big effect on the bass response. In my room the stock Yorkies actually had a wide dip around 200Hz (as they seem to in most locations), but are also quite flat all the way down to 40Hz. My modded ones are flat to 35Hz and useable to 25.

Keep in mind they are generally "supposed" to be used with the +2 bass switch as a baffle step compensation. This will flatten out <100Hz a bit. Also give the bass drivers some time to break in. Might just be your room though.

What surprises me is the RTA not showing the brightness of the tweeter. I think that maybe a higher density of measurements would bring this out. Did you have the highs on -2?

Looks like your EQ cut is messing with harmonics as well.

 

[CoolCat]

yeah the room can be a big difference. ..thats the whole schanolie of doing the listening in your own room whenever possibel, imo.

I don't know about harmonics, but i noticed the EQ did effect other things than just the 150-175hz bump.

+/-2 db 20-20 ain't going to happen in my HR room??
I was shooting for +/- 4db.
switches were set at -2 LF, Dampened room HF.

Here's the BW303 with and without the sub. done today. No EQ.

I paid for the $10 and got the Allen Heath RTA full version last night.
The trial version was my first go at this stuff, pretty cool. I noticed like MSHilarious's graphs were more detailed, but i didn't want to spend $50-70.
I only checked the sitting position, as I said this is my "room tuner", kinda like those $14 guitar tuners. I love it actually...real time response, much easier than the hand held.

even Allen Heath says the RTA is only part of the equation, your ears make the final call.

 

[xstatic]

One thing to remember about RTA's, is that the quality of the RTA and the mic used can seriouly affect the readings. If you use a software based RTA program, than you also introduce one more variable with your converters. In any case they can still be useful, but without a truly accurate RTA system, a lot of the details may not be fixable. For example, maybe the RTA mic you are using is causing a bump or dip somewhere do to it's own inaccuracy. Also, its a good idea to use a shockmount when running low frequencies so that you don't get exaggerated readings from your mic stand conducting.

When I last RTA'ed my room I used a Klark Teknik analyzer with the supplied KT mic. It's certainly not a cheap setup ($2k or so), but worth it. i would actually recommend that you do what you can with whatever RTA you have, but if you are really serious about it, rent a top notch setup to do the final stuff.

 

[CoolCat]

yeah maybe the "next" level i can up the rta equipment too.
but this is fairly new to me and i like the concept for entry level ~HR
stuff. RTA tracks in real time and tracks pretty good. If someone is obsessing over monitors, i highly recommend it. "room tuner"

another post with portable side trap adjusted, sub added and fine angle tweeks, NO Eq used.

off for the ysm1ps fine tune and then i'm done with the rta for awhile.
mixing time!

left the pink noise on for break-in time.

funny even when both speakers charts look the same , you can still hear a difference? is that what term depth is?
and i can hear more reverbs on the YSM's...

 

[CoolCat]

last rta...YSM1p only, no trap,eq, no sub.
pretty damn good imo.

the 150hz bump makes me curious, if i only do the left or right side by itself the bump is smaller....left+right the 150hz increases ~1-2db...

??so would you call this a "room node" an additive type? any suggestions?


i tried this 2nd time i couldn't get rid of it. .

oh well...now to do some real listening and mixing......

 

[xstatic]

Or maybe the little 150hz bump is also a Yorkville thing, or a combination etc... etc...

 

[bleyrad]

You could try measuring outdoors for near-anachoic response figures.

I realize you may have to make a compromise for your room, but I would be really dissapointed if I had to have the bass on -2 for the Yorkies. Like I said, they are designed to be run at +2 as a baffle step compensation for the flattest and lowest extension possible. At that setting I never feel the need for a sub. You are probably losing about 10Hz of useful bandwidth at the extreme low-end. I would look at changing the placement of the speakers in the room to try and eliminate that bump so you can change the bass setting.

 

[CoolCat]

monitors and room and rta equipment

edity: been mixing on the yorks, first went very well. No ear fatigue, pleasent sounding speaker.
left them on for 3 days now, no heat buildup noticed...seems pretty well built.
1st mix translated well. will re-mix some more and compare.

then figure out how to get some DYN's in the house...hmmmm

 

[CoolCat]

I realize you may have to make a compromise for your room, but I would be really dissapointed if I had to have the bass on -2 for the Yorkies. Like I said, they are designed to be run at +2 as a baffle step compensation for the flattest and lowest extension possible.

i'll try the +2 again. not sure what baffle step compensation is?
....i'll go read up.
laid the room out per Ethans DIY info. so i don't think moving them is a path to take.
I could use more 703traps to pull some more 150hz out?

appreciate the inputs.

bleyrad,
so what kind of cost did you throw into the yorks on the upgraded speakers?
sounds like it went really well.
how did you decide on those specific drivers?
thats a big statement, as the DYN's are sweet by themselves.

Monitors?
just listening, i can hear more than the rta shows.
the rta doesn't really capture depth, and reverb tail clarity or whtever it is with sound, anyway the rta doesn't capture everything, imo.

i'm just at a novice level so take all this as it is.
if you've seen my other posts, its a 10x11 or something room, standard spare bedroom. so i was told bass is difficult and never expected a really flat low-end bass response.

 

[bknot1]

so how did they compare to the Dyn's

 

[CoolCat]

damn thats an old post!

not only was there zero response by others on actual side by side,
but i ran out of money and never got the BM5's home either!
(why I tell people never procrastinate on getting the gear or something will come up financially and screw up the deal! IMO)

still happy with the yorks.
i'm playing with a sub sometimes too. i already had this.

the yorks have been zero problems hardware wise and i like the sound personally, and the mixes have been alright with me. easy to work with I'd say.

p.s. I have been made aware the RTA on this post, may look better than actual because of the poor resolution of the $10 RTA....its still fun/cool beginner level, but Ethan recommended a $150RTA that is much more "real", he often uses it. so again, good cheap stuff at the $150 range. can't recall the brand off the top of the head, its mentioned over on the studio building forum somewhere, but its obvious there's more resolution to the graph...........