Drywall, Sheetblok, etc.

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scarr3d

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hi all,

a friend and i are rebuilding our studio in a 23' x 30' space. this is my first time doing this, so i have a lot of questions that i couldn't find answers for.

the space will be divided up into a live room, control room, and an isolation room. we're doing the framing for the main wall currently with 2 x 4 studs.

here's the plan for the walls, so far: in between the studs, use spray cellulose to fill the gaps, affix Auralex Sheetblock to the studs, affix the drywall to the Sheetblok, lay down another sheet of drywall on top of the other with caulk.

my questions are:

what thickness of drywall should we use?
is spray cellulose the way to go for the insulation?
should we use acoustic caulk, or just silicone caulk? we need to screw in anything?
how do we do the seams? i've heard things about tape and mud...
are resilient channels necessary? if so, how?
what is the best way to affix the Sheetblok to the studs?

in the live room we'll have a drum kit, bass amp, and 2 Marshall stacks. we're trying to keep out sounds from the warehouse. but more importantly, keep it quiet enough for people to work downstairs. i'm sure i'll have more questions as the work progresses. i'll have to post separate threads for the wiring and door questions. =]

thanks for reading!
 
after getting a price quote for Auralex Sheetblok i decided against this. guess i'll just look for some loaded/leaded vinyl at Home Depot...
 
Why not use either the staggared stud design or the single stud design using resiliant channel, I wouldnt use cellulose, rigid fiberboard is a much better choice. Acoustic caulk is a must.
Search a thread titled "Quiet Zone" theres a lot of great info that may help.
 
Stagarred stud-2x3studs sharing a 2x6 base.

Insulation- use the fluffy stuff. Rigid fiberboard has no real acoustic affect inside wall cavities. It will be just a waste of "alot of money".

Rsilient channels-Auralex sells 8-10 8foot sticks for around $120. Not a bad price! Wish I did some opf my own walls with that. It's pretty easy to put up. Not sure how far 8-10 sticks will get ya.

Later
Casenpoint
 
Rsilient channels-Auralex sells 8-10 8foot sticks for around $120. Not a bad price! Wish I did some opf my own walls with
Click to expand...

Not a bad price?:eek: FOR WHO? HOLY SHIT! Thats $10 per length. What the heck do they think this stuff is made of, gold?:rolleyes: :mad: In 1992, I paid $1.20 per length. The manufacturers must have looked at the gas companys, and decided to do what they do. Price gouging. At that price, thats $50 per linear 8'-10' of wall. It takes 5 lengths. That is NOT cheap in my book. Especially once you consider the insulation, the gyp board, and labor.....ha! For my little room, that would cost $350 for the RC alone. #$&&*)%^@!!#$!!! Over my dead body.:mad: Thievery comes in many guises.

fitZ
 
Just priced RC-1 @ local drywall supply 2 days ago, $2.16 per 12' piece. Forget Home Depot, mine never heard of it.

Only buy from an acoustic supply place if you can't get things from normal places - if the above price quote isn't reason enough, I'll give you my address and you can just send ME all your money... :=)
 
$2.16 per 12'
Click to expand...
WHEW! There is some sanity left in the world afterall.:D Thanks for the economy stableization Steve. I thought I woke up in hollywood for a minute.:p
Never can tell though. If the crooks that run these corporations have it their way,soon, NO ONE will be able to afford dinner, let alone gasoline.

fitZ
 
Wanna feel good about the price you paid for ANYTHING? Just go to "super-sound-spoofing.CON", some of their prices are DOUBLE what other WEB sites charge - Plus, they'll try to sell you RC for BOTH sides of a wall, etc - buncha pervs... Steve
 
"let alone gasoline" -

Got a design goin' fer a methane powered truck - has a hose that sticks up through the driver's seat, comes with a year's supply of Stagg's chili (extra hot), gets about 30 MPC (Miles Per Can) - only thing is, the engine tends to kind of stumble when you're driving on really bumpy roads if your seat belt isn't tight enough ... (think about it)

hehehehehehehehehehehehehehehe....
 
Come to think of it I wasn't really shopping for the rc channels. I just happend to ask how much they "guit centre" could get it for. Sound reasonable at the time. When compared to lets say RIGID INSULATION and ya find that it cost an arm and a leg to cover your studio walls. So it didn't sound all that bad at the moment. BTW that was a great end to a long day. Where do I get one of those vehicles?

Casenpoint
 
"Where do I get one of those vehicles?" -

Still workin' on EPA certification, somethin' about the seal around that hose - gotta get that one fixed, or no smog certificate - so don't hold your breath (second thought, ya prob'ly SHOULD... :=)
 
Prob'ly happens from driving too fast, beans don't get a chance to fully "atomize"... :=)
 
hey Magpie99...

I checked out the entire web site. They seem to have a lot of stuff that is comparable to Auralex. Have you had any experience with them?
 
I haven't, but their Solara stuff doesn't seem to be close to the same thing as Sheet Blok, spec-wise... Steve
 
casenpoint said:
Stagarred stud-2x3studs sharing a 2x6 base.

Insulation- use the fluffy stuff. Rigid fiberboard has no real acoustic affect inside wall cavities. It will be just a waste of "alot of money".

Rsilient channels-Auralex sells 8-10 8foot sticks for around $120. Not a bad price! Wish I did some opf my own walls with that. It's pretty easy to put up. Not sure how far 8-10 sticks will get ya.

Later
Casenpoint
Click to expand...

our plan so far:

1. R 13(?) insulation inside frame.
2. affix leaded vinyl mats to the studs with silicone caulk.
3. drywall affixed to vinyl mat with silicone caulk
4. another layer of drywall caulked onto the 1st layer.

i don't want to screw/nail anything correct? this sound like a decent plan?
 
Sorry, but there's no adhesive I'm aware of that is rated for fastening panels to framing - construction adhesives are meant to HELP nails and screws, in that they fill any irregular cracks and keep things from rattling or leaking air.

For a better idea of what/how/where, you can go here -

http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/index.php

and check out the Construction forum - in particular, read the "stickies" at the top of the page, mainly this one

http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=598

and this one next -

http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=839

The second one starts out about floors, but grew into a lot more... Steve
 
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