DIY Plate Reverb Unit nearly finished.

  • Thread starter Thread starter pathdoc
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I was interning at an amazing studio that had plates stores in the basement. They were patched into all of the studio so with a simple patch you could get in and out of them. I never bothered to hear them myself, but from what I hear, they sound fantastic and every new intern who starts recording usually runs EVERYTHING through them. lol.
 
I want one. How much you lookin' for to make 'em... I was just talking about an actual plate reverb in my home studio....it'd be killer...you really should sell them. Thanks dude!

-Joel
 
The cost of materials, wood, steel, hardware, tranducer, pickup runs about $300. You'll need a few other items you already have in your studio ie direct box, small power amp to power transducer, mixer and cables.
The biggest issue is getting the unit to your studio. Shipping would be insane.:eek:
 
I don't see how you could get a true stereo signal out of one plate. I'm sure they'd be two different-sounding signals, but not stereo.

I'm starting to consider undertaking such a project, since I have some materials to get rid of. I'm hoping that one could make a stereo unit by putting two plates in one enclosure and thereby save some space and some cost in materials.

Cheers,

Otto
 
i see no reason why you couldn't mount two plates in one enclosure as long as you address the following:

1. The tension on the frame will be double, so your gussets and bracing should be able to handle the tension

2. I would acoustically isolate each side of the enclosure (l/r) as well as i could.

3. You will need 2 amps as well
 
I think it would be much easier and simple to run the right channel mono through the unit then run the left channel separately. You'd cut your investment by 1/2 and it would only take a few more minutes. Just a thought.
 
i am :)

at least i really want to.

and i wasn't busting on you, i figured it might help those that might take this project on.

All of that said, it's not a tremendously expensive project, but it takes up a lot of room.

I know Steve Albini's at Electric Audio is in the basement of the studio, and he ran cables up from the dampening pads. i think that's pretty cool

Oh, I knew there was no bustification - I just literally don't have the room for it, nor would i want to spend the money at the moment.

Really cool idea though.

I think a much larger unit is required.

"Why does the floor of the basement look like a sheet of steel?"
"Because it is a sheet of steel"
"So, can I walk on it?"
"Oh, you can't use the basement - its a plate reverb - 40' by 30' plate :D"
 
I think it would be much easier and simple to run the right channel mono through the unit then run the left channel separately. You'd cut your investment by 1/2 and it would only take a few more minutes. Just a thought.

If I'm mixing from 4 tape tracks on 1/2" down to 1/4" 2-track and don't have room to print reverb to tape, then it's not an option, so a stereo unit would be handy. OTOH, it would work if I track in the box or port over from the tape and mix in the box, since I can print the reverb into a track in the DAW one channel at a time before mixing. Thanks!

Cheers,

Otto
 
Oh, I knew there was no bustification - I just literally don't have the room for it, nor would i want to spend the money at the moment.

Really cool idea though.

I think a much larger unit is required.

"Why does the floor of the basement look like a sheet of steel?"
"Because it is a sheet of steel"
"So, can I walk on it?"
"Oh, you can't use the basement - its a plate reverb - 40' by 30' plate :D"

"where's your control room?"

"Control room? No no, we have this plate reverb that's it. It's the largest in the world."

"i want to record my guitar playing though"

"HAHAHAHAHAH. Listen buddy, this plate reverb is for pro's ok....get out."
 
If it sounds good, I'd still be interested. I don't have time to take on any more "projects" LOL. Lemme know,

-Joel
 
Hey Guys,

I'm going to try to make a smaller version. I bought a 3x6 ft piece of sheet metal from lowes (the kind used for duct work). Seems thin enough, as I get the thunder sound when I pick it up. I'm going to drill two small holes in the top corner, and suspend it with fishing wire from a wooden frame.

I'm planning on using an old 35 watt Kenwood amp to power a Ghost transducer to the back of the plate. Then I'd use a 9v powered acoustic guitar transducer pickup on the edge of the bottom somewhere (dabbed on with hot glue probably).

Before I go ahead and buy the Ghost speaker, any thoughts on how I can improve this design? BTW, i'm not expecting more than about a 1/2 second of reverb out of such a small piece of metal. I'm also expecting i'll need to EQ both the amp and the input to get a decent sound out of it.

-Chuck
 
Hey Guys,

I'm going to try to make a smaller version. I bought a 3x6 ft piece of sheet metal from lowes (the kind used for duct work). Seems thin enough, as I get the thunder sound when I pick it up. I'm going to drill two small holes in the top corner, and suspend it with fishing wire from a wooden frame.

I'm planning on using an old 35 watt Kenwood amp to power a Ghost transducer to the back of the plate. Then I'd use a 9v powered acoustic guitar transducer pickup on the edge of the bottom somewhere (dabbed on with hot glue probably).

Before I go ahead and buy the Ghost speaker, any thoughts on how I can improve this design? BTW, i'm not expecting more than about a 1/2 second of reverb out of such a small piece of metal. I'm also expecting i'll need to EQ both the amp and the input to get a decent sound out of it.

-Chuck

A properly tensioned plate will probably yield better results than the loosely hanging plate design you have in mind (check out the TapeOp article earlier in this thread).
 
I never saw a plate reverb before, I didn't know they were that big.
 
The studio I worked in when I was a kid had an EMT plate reverb.

It sounded like when someone dives into the water - a beautiful "splash" sound. In one word it sounded "expensive".

It was huge and took up most of a back room. I go by that studio now and it's all gutted and guys are working on BMW's in there.
 
I've built a few plate reverbs and learned a lot from the experience. The first was a very crude 2 x 4 frame with a cheap piece of thin galvanized steel from the hardware store, just to test the concept. The driver was a speaker with the cone ripped out, and it was coupled to the plate with a paper-towel cardboard tube glued on both ends. It sounded amazing!

The second was a more sturdy double 2 x 6 frame with a 5 x 3 steel plate suspended under enormous tension -- basically a wooden version of an EMT. It sounded okay, but the plate was too thick and it didn't have the magic of the first, crappy crude version.

I kept wondering why plate reverbs were rectangular instead of round, like a gong. After all, there's a reason why resonant objects like musical instruments have rounded edges and not square corners, right?

I knew a guy in town who owned a small metal fabricating shop, so I convinced him to let me use his hydraulic bender and bent two half-moon shapes out of 2" steel pipe, then welded them together. Then I cut a circular plate with a plasma cutter and assembled a round plate reverb.

It wasn't long until I realized why plate reverbs are not round! With a rectangular plate there is a great degree of randomization which causes the reverb to decay somewhat naturally, similar to how reverberation decays in a real room. A circular plate resonates so much, like a cymbal, that the reverberation builds up into a giant mess of mush, like a room with a million standing waves. The detail is totally lost and the effect is basically undesirable.

So, now I have a nice sculpture in my shop that doubles as a somewhat dangerous, spinning playground object when my nephews visit:

plate.jpg


plate2.jpg


Some things I learned along the way:

1) Use the thinnest plate possible that will still be strong enough to hold up to tension. (Desiring an ever-thinner plate is what prompted the original inventor to design the EMT 240 with the thin gold-foil sheet.)

2) Use as much tension as possible. I've heard that the proper way to tension an EMT or Echoplate is to tighten the tensioning bolts, while counting the turns, until the bolt breaks. Then, replace the bolt and tighten it one less turn.

3) Stick with rectangles!
 
That was a pretty cool idea (trying out a round design). I figured there had to be a reason the EMT was a rectangle. Are you going to build another one? You've got great metal working skills.

My plate had reinforced corners. This allowed me to really tighten the plate. I'm sure I'm nowhere near the tension of the original EMT's but that's okay, I'm happy with the current performance.
 
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