T
travelin travis
New member
Tim Brown said:
sounds like a good idea.
sounds like a good idea.
T
travelin travis
New member
bump..........any progress?
T
travelin travis
New member
********bump***********
G
GreenDank
New member
...
Sorry for the long delay....took me awhile to figure out the unit and then record. The final out come is....they are damn hard to play. I can't seem to stop the false triggering and sometimes no triggering during recording. Then I'll check it, and it will seem fine. Must be my nervousness or over-excitment when the record button is on.
I had to do record a song in stages because of my screw ups and the unit's (actually my poorly-designed board). I ended up sounding like a caveman (if you were to give a neanderthal a drum set and put him in a studio). Hence, the name of the new tune: Caveman Jam.
If anyone else tries the triggers all-on-one board thing, be very cautious, and use many layers of padding between the triggers and the board, or build little stand-ups off the board to prevent cross-triggering. If Yamaha's DD-50/55 gets around that problem...my hat is off to them. I would personally recommend going with separate triggers on a rack or something. Maybe the Alesis or Roland units would act differently, but I'll never know (or at least won't for a long time).
I think in the future, I'll need to record things not only in sections of the song, but also in drum sections (snare and bass, then the toms, then the cymbals, etc.). This may work to my advantage though, because then I can put them on different channels for more control during mixing.
Sorry for the long post.
Well, here it is....
Only the drums (ouch):
The whole song:
Sorry for the long delay....took me awhile to figure out the unit and then record. The final out come is....they are damn hard to play. I can't seem to stop the false triggering and sometimes no triggering during recording. Then I'll check it, and it will seem fine. Must be my nervousness or over-excitment when the record button is on.
I had to do record a song in stages because of my screw ups and the unit's (actually my poorly-designed board). I ended up sounding like a caveman (if you were to give a neanderthal a drum set and put him in a studio). Hence, the name of the new tune: Caveman Jam.
If anyone else tries the triggers all-on-one board thing, be very cautious, and use many layers of padding between the triggers and the board, or build little stand-ups off the board to prevent cross-triggering. If Yamaha's DD-50/55 gets around that problem...my hat is off to them. I would personally recommend going with separate triggers on a rack or something. Maybe the Alesis or Roland units would act differently, but I'll never know (or at least won't for a long time).
I think in the future, I'll need to record things not only in sections of the song, but also in drum sections (snare and bass, then the toms, then the cymbals, etc.). This may work to my advantage though, because then I can put them on different channels for more control during mixing.
Sorry for the long post.
Well, here it is....
Only the drums (ouch):
The whole song:
Tim Brown
New member
Okay,
how did you mount the triggers to the board?
Are the can lids mounted directly to the board? If so, that's going to cause all sorts of crosstalk and false triggering. You have the mount the metal pieces on foam, so that they float.
If you attached the directly to the wood - you'll have to rebuild it.
What you need to do, is use a hot glue gun and glue a foam "ring" (just a foam strip glued around the edge of the metal) between the wood and the metal to act as an insulator/isolation so that they strikes don't pass from one pad to the next.
I would have made fewer pads on the unit, and made them bigger.
Tim
how did you mount the triggers to the board?
Are the can lids mounted directly to the board? If so, that's going to cause all sorts of crosstalk and false triggering. You have the mount the metal pieces on foam, so that they float.
If you attached the directly to the wood - you'll have to rebuild it.
What you need to do, is use a hot glue gun and glue a foam "ring" (just a foam strip glued around the edge of the metal) between the wood and the metal to act as an insulator/isolation so that they strikes don't pass from one pad to the next.
I would have made fewer pads on the unit, and made them bigger.
Tim
G
GreenDank
New member
Tim Brown said:
you are correct - more foam would have been better. I used something like a 1/8 packing sheet-type foam (simply because I had it laying around), and screws went through the lids, through the foam, and into the board. what it should have been was either several sheets of thicker foam, or a really thick piece, with the lid then glued to that.
fewer pads may help. I'm not sure if bigger is better though, becuase even with the little guys, once you get towards the outside of the pad it starts going dead. But that may just be a function of my setting the unit to only accept certain hits due to the problem I caused by too little foam.
Thanks for the input, and I will likely re-build (but not this weekend, I'm spent!)
T
travelin travis
New member
thanks for posting your results, even though everything is'nt quite right yet. i'm sure some more tinkering will get you there though. the drum samples sound good but it sounds like there's a problem with the velocity of the hits. no offense, but it also sounds like you ain't been around a drum kit much, 
.
i'm still waiting on my tax return but when i get it, i think i'm gonna take a stab at diy edrums too. i might go with the remo practice pads though. although, i would like to have something that could just slide under a bed when not in use. keep us posted on any improvements that you make to your rig. good luck.
. i'm still waiting on my tax return but when i get it, i think i'm gonna take a stab at diy edrums too. i might go with the remo practice pads though. although, i would like to have something that could just slide under a bed when not in use. keep us posted on any improvements that you make to your rig. good luck.
T
travelin travis
New member
.......just heard your tune in the mp3 clinic. my apologies about what i said about you not having much experience around a kit. i guess i just heard the above clip out of context with the rest of the music. it makes alot more sense going along with the guitars. i stick my foot in my mouth sometimes. you'll have to forgive me.
Tim Brown
New member
Okay, here's part of the problem.
You screwed them in. You can't do that. You have to glue the foam between the metal and the wood. The Screws are a major part of the problem causing crosstalk.
What you need to get is like some weather stripping. glue that to the wood, and then glue the metal plates on top of that. (This is exactly how the inside of the ddrum pads were made. Then glue your top foam piece on top of that.
That way, you'll have isolation between each of the pads.
Tim
You screwed them in. You can't do that. You have to glue the foam between the metal and the wood. The Screws are a major part of the problem causing crosstalk.
What you need to get is like some weather stripping. glue that to the wood, and then glue the metal plates on top of that. (This is exactly how the inside of the ddrum pads were made. Then glue your top foam piece on top of that.
That way, you'll have isolation between each of the pads.
Tim
Tim Brown
New member
Now, if you guys want to try this, I've got a little better method.
Go to your local DIY hardware supply store, and look in the are where they have gutters. You can get little pieces of sheet metal that are say 4"x6".
Just use a piece of plywood, and make your pads rectangle in shape.
Get some carpet foam pat, and use as your isolator, and glue that to the plywood, glue your refraction plate or whatever you want to call it (the metal plate with the piezo disc glued beneath it to the foam, then glue a mousepad to the top of each plate.
Just remember to drill a hole in the board and feed the wired from the piezo through the hole in the board and foam prior to glueing the foam with the plate down.
Tim
Go to your local DIY hardware supply store, and look in the are where they have gutters. You can get little pieces of sheet metal that are say 4"x6".
Just use a piece of plywood, and make your pads rectangle in shape.
Get some carpet foam pat, and use as your isolator, and glue that to the plywood, glue your refraction plate or whatever you want to call it (the metal plate with the piezo disc glued beneath it to the foam, then glue a mousepad to the top of each plate.
Just remember to drill a hole in the board and feed the wired from the piezo through the hole in the board and foam prior to glueing the foam with the plate down.
Tim
G
GreenDank
New member
TravisinFlorida said:
doesn't bother me...because it's true. now if you had said something about my guitar playing....ah, that wouldn't bother me either.
G
GreenDank
New member
Tim Brown said:Now, if you guys want to try this, I've got a little better method.
Go to your local DIY hardware supply store, and look in the are where they have gutters. You can get little pieces of sheet metal that are say 4"x6".
Just use a piece of plywood, and make your pads rectangle in shape.
Get some carpet foam pat, and use as your isolator, and glue that to the plywood, glue your refraction plate or whatever you want to call it (the metal plate with the piezo disc glued beneath it to the foam, then glue a mousepad to the top of each plate.
Just remember to drill a hole in the board and feed the wired from the piezo through the hole in the board and foam prior to glueing the foam with the plate down.
Tim
I'll probably try it down the road when I get another chunk of time to work on stuff. Good ideas. And cool "101" website.
A
aspiring
Average Punter
I have just about finished my own set of edrums. It started as a small fill-in electronic project before Christmas. Next thing...I've just about got a whole rig set up! And it's loads of fun to play (never touched drums before in my life!).
Anyway, the key was getting a circuit simple enough that I could be build it on vero board (strip board), instead of having to build a pcb. I found one here:
http://www.siliconchip.com.au/cms/A_105432/article.html
You have to pay to download this now. Before Christmas it seemd to be free. Essentially, the circuit is 1x PIC16F88 chip programmed with code they have on their site (a hex dump provided), 2x LM384 chips for the analog inputs, and an LCD display module you can pick up anywhere. I ignored the RS-232 and games port output circuitry. Just need midi, right? The various chips and electronics are just wired point to point on the strip board. I do know something about electronics and audio, so I was careful to lay the circuit out as best I could, avoiding ground loops, and including plenty of decoupling capacitors. It works fine.
Built the whole thing in a week of evenings and stuck it in a case. Then experimented with a baking tin pad, but have now ended up building a couple (more to follow) of Remo Practice pad triggers. Many alternative ideas here: http://edrum.for.free.fr/
They work really well. I was gonna stick them on the table, but it was so much fun I've built up a PVC pipe rack that will hold the whole kit.
I guess I haven't anything to compare them with. And I've just started, so there might be problems later. But I'm pretty impressed and recommend that particular circuit if you want to keep things simple.
Perhaps the biggest disadvantage is that there are only 7 trigger inputs, plus a footswitch to change one input between two drums (for HH open/close). But that's enough to lay tracks (and learn drums). The latency is claimed to be <1.5 ms. I haven't tested this. I'm presently triggering "Roughrider" samples off my pc using sfz. My USB/midi/pc has latency, which is a little problem. I tried it with the midi drums on my Boss BR1200 stand alone studio and the response is 10x better there. Very playable. I'm thinking of getting a cheap Alesis SR16 to use as a standalone sample source for practicing.
I'm sure the electronics will be available as a kitset from Australian sources soon.
Anyway. Just wanted to say: it IS possible. It does work. And it is loads of fun
Good luck
aspiring
Anyway, the key was getting a circuit simple enough that I could be build it on vero board (strip board), instead of having to build a pcb. I found one here:
http://www.siliconchip.com.au/cms/A_105432/article.html
You have to pay to download this now. Before Christmas it seemd to be free. Essentially, the circuit is 1x PIC16F88 chip programmed with code they have on their site (a hex dump provided), 2x LM384 chips for the analog inputs, and an LCD display module you can pick up anywhere. I ignored the RS-232 and games port output circuitry. Just need midi, right? The various chips and electronics are just wired point to point on the strip board. I do know something about electronics and audio, so I was careful to lay the circuit out as best I could, avoiding ground loops, and including plenty of decoupling capacitors. It works fine.
Built the whole thing in a week of evenings and stuck it in a case. Then experimented with a baking tin pad, but have now ended up building a couple (more to follow) of Remo Practice pad triggers. Many alternative ideas here: http://edrum.for.free.fr/
They work really well. I was gonna stick them on the table, but it was so much fun I've built up a PVC pipe rack that will hold the whole kit.
I guess I haven't anything to compare them with. And I've just started, so there might be problems later. But I'm pretty impressed and recommend that particular circuit if you want to keep things simple.
Perhaps the biggest disadvantage is that there are only 7 trigger inputs, plus a footswitch to change one input between two drums (for HH open/close). But that's enough to lay tracks (and learn drums). The latency is claimed to be <1.5 ms. I haven't tested this. I'm presently triggering "Roughrider" samples off my pc using sfz. My USB/midi/pc has latency, which is a little problem. I tried it with the midi drums on my Boss BR1200 stand alone studio and the response is 10x better there. Very playable. I'm thinking of getting a cheap Alesis SR16 to use as a standalone sample source for practicing.
I'm sure the electronics will be available as a kitset from Australian sources soon.
Anyway. Just wanted to say: it IS possible. It does work. And it is loads of fun
Good luck
aspiring
G
GreenDank
New member
aspiring said:
That is very impressive!