Changing tubes

  • Thread starter Thread starter Lo-Fi Mike
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Lo-Fi Mike

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So I'm thinking about getting an MPA Gold, but i don't want to use the stock tubes.
Are there any suggestions on what tubes i should be looking for? and which place is best to get them from.

I use to own an La-610 and although i know it will not sound the same, i would like to get this box as close as possible.

Thanks for all your help,
---mike---
 
Lo-Fi Mike said:
So I'm thinking about getting an MPA Gold, but i don't want to use the stock tubes.
Are there any suggestions on what tubes i should be looking for? and which place is best to get them from.

I use to own an La-610 and although i know it will not sound the same, i would like to get this box as close as possible.

Thanks for all your help,
---mike---
Click to expand...

I also have an mpa gold..the most common tubes that I have herd of that people use for it are.

jj tubes
JAN Philips
Mullard

If you have the cash I would get some old telefunkin tubes!!
try and atleast get nos tubes (new old stock)

here is a well known store!!

http://thetubestore.com/12ax70ectyp.html
 
Changing tubes CAN greatly change the way something sounds and its overall characteristics. If you are really interested, I have a pretty sizable collection of tubes that I am about to put up for sale so send me a PM :)
 
I have an MPA with a pair of Telefunken AX7's and an MPA with a pair of Amperex AX7's. The T'funkens are really warm and buttery...smooth distortion. The Amperex's are much brighter...I like them at lower gain levels...great for kick and snare.

So many choices....

Frank
 
I put Mullard 12AT7 tubes in an MPA Gold.
The ATs have a bit less gain than the AX's, but the Mullards sound real nice.
They cost about $30 each at Doug's Tubes.
T
 
Thanks

I really appreciate all the helpful feedback!!!
i'm pretty excited about doing this. I think i might go with Mullard 12Ax7 ,

So how easy are these things to replace. Is it like a small light bulb?

---mike---
 
Lo-Fi Mike said:
ISo how easy are these things to replace.
Click to expand...

They're not too hard to change. Make sure you ground pin #1 to the chassis of the preamp and bridge pins #2 & #7 with a small copper jumper wire. Beyond that, all you have to worry about is rolling it in (in reverse order 7 down to 1) so the pins touch the contacts in the socket in sequence.





:D

Not really. It's more like changing a light bulb.
 
WhiteStrat said:
They're not too hard to change. Make sure you ground pin #1 to the chassis of the preamp and bridge pins #2 & #7 with a small copper jumper wire. Beyond that, all you have to worry about is rolling it in (in reverse order 7 down to 1) so the pins touch the contacts in the socket in sequence.

:D

Not really. It's more like changing a light bulb.
Click to expand...

You had me going there for a few spaces :-)
Actually, you want to be careful when removing the screws...
And careful when you stick your big paws in there too.
Gentle when removing and replacing tubes.
Some people wear gloves (not chopper mitts)!

T
 
Twinnesota said:
You had me going there for a few spaces :-)
Actually, you want to be careful when removing the screws...
And careful when you stick your big paws in there too.
Gentle when removing and replacing tubes.
Some people wear gloves (not chopper mitts)!

T
Click to expand...

+1..I had an old art mp studio years ago and I ripped that thing apart when pulling out the tube..

The mpa is easy..just remove the metal tube cover (don't loose the spring) and replace them!!!
 
WhiteStrat said:
They're not too hard to change. Make sure you ground pin #1 to the chassis of the preamp and bridge pins #2 & #7 with a small copper jumper wire. Beyond that, all you have to worry about is rolling it in (in reverse order 7 down to 1) so the pins touch the contacts in the socket in sequence..
Click to expand...

Bad White Strat! Bad Boy!::D
 
BTW... try and keep from getting fingerprints on the tubes when you put them in. I find a piece of klenex works just fine to hold the tubes while you pop them in.
 
BudgetMC said:
BTW... try and keep from getting fingerprints on the tubes when you put them in. I find a piece of klenex works just fine to hold the tubes while you pop them in.
Click to expand...
Dude... they're vacuum tubes not haligon bulbs... but if you hate finger prints on you're tubes... then by all means...
 
MOFO Pro said:
Dude... they're vacuum tubes not haligon bulbs... but if you hate finger prints on you're tubes... then by all means...
Click to expand...

Just like halogen bulbs, vacuum tubes are pieces of glass that get hot. Particularly with power tubes, finger oil is a bad thing. For preamp tubes, it probably isn't an issue, but it can't hurt to avoid it anyway.

Basically, when you get finger oil on hot glass, you create hot spots because the oil prevents the glass from dissipating heat as effectively in that region. The resulting uneven heating around the margins can lead to premature envelope failure (cracking). Whether this is likely to happen years after the tube has exceeded its useful life or not is a matter of debate, of course, and likely depends almost entirely on how hot the tube runs, on the level of impurities in the glass (which can weaken it and make it more susceptible to thermal stress), and on how quickly the glass was cooled during manufacturing (which apparently has a huge impact on how it responds to thermal stress).

That said, IANAME (I am not a materials engineer), so take that with a grain of salt. :D
 
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