Caulk/Sealant Specifications

  • Thread starter Thread starter Michael Jones
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Michael Jones

Michael Jones

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I have nearly completed the first layer of a multi-layer wall system for the EXTERIOR of my studio.

The construction is staggered stud, and the sheathing consists of the following:

1.) 1/2" OSB
2.) 1/2" R-MATE (This is an insulative material made of compressed fiberglass insulation. One side is reflective, and the other side is not. This material is required by LOCAL building and energy codes where the finished outside walls will be either brick or stone.)
3.) Tyvek House wrap.
4.) 1/2" wood siding
5.) Brick

The brick extends half way up on all sides except the front, and there it extends all the way up.
Because brick is required to have "weep holes" along the bottom course, I don't expect it to have an added benefit in STC ratings. It is there purely for asthetic reasons.

So getting back to the first layer; the OSB:
I am ready to caulk the joints and have chosen the caulk I intend to use. It is an elastomeric latex sealant with a tested 50 year durability guarantee.

It meets the specifications of ASTM C-920, Class 25.

A search for this specification yeilded only sites in which you have to pay for the actual specification document.

So given that, does anyone have access to ASTM documents, and if so, does this caulk prove adequate for studio construction?
 
"knightfly" one of our resident construction "experts", maintains that construction should be "...to cabinet makers tolerances...".
Attached is a close up picture of a typical OSB joint. Its hard to tell in the picture, but you can't even fit a razor blade between the joints!

This is NOT difficult to accomplish. Take your time, measure twice, cut once, and when placing the panels up to be nailed, pull the joints together tight, and then nail each panel with the nails driving into the stud at opposing angles. This actually pulls the joints together. Just a tip for anyone at this stage of constrtuction. ;)
 

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Here's a broader view. :p

A little "DIRT AND GRIME" for those of you that like to see that stuff.
 

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Hey Michael,

What are you going be placing above the brick ledge on the sides? The OSB seams look great BTW!
 
Michael,

Its looking good down there.

As far as the ASTM ratings go, I don't have any data, but a little bit of experience to throw out. In my case, it was an internal room, but I just bought a long-life latex type of caulk which I used to seal all gaps prior to mudwork (including floor, ceiling, corner, and door frame gaps). I used a staggered stud setup, but with a 2x4 plate and 2x3's for the studs, fully stuffed from both sides with R13. I can honestly say that the only noticeable sound transmission into or out of my room comes from the door. I was actually surprised at how well this worked with what I thought of as a major compromise.

So, my point is that as long as you seal everything carefully, I think what you have selected will accomplish what you intend.

Thats 2 cents worth from a complete amateur.

Anyway, have fun with it!!

Darryl.....
 
Re: Hey Michael,

MikeA said:
What are you going be placing above the brick ledge on the sides? The OSB seams look great BTW!
Click to expand...
Just hardwood siding.

Thanks for the comment! I'm getting sick of working with it. My hands are torn up.
 
Thanks DDev.
"Knightfly" said as long as its durable and non-hardening, it should be good to go.

I didn't know you were in Wichita Darryl? How long have you lived there?
I lived there many years ago. Still have 2 brother's and a sister that live there too.
 
Michael,

I think Knghtfly hit it on the head and I took too long to say the same thing (that is what I intended to say, I just write too much).

Anyway, I've been in Wichita for (gasp!) 17 years now. I'm originally from mid-Michigan, went to college in Arkansas, moved to Dallas for a couple of years to work at a small electronics company, and now I'm deeply entrenched in the aviation industry. At least my job is working with audio and video entertainment systems integration, so that's pretty fun (as long as there is work to be done).

If you ever get up this way, I'd love to show off my hole in the basement (although it's nothing compared to your new digs).

Cheers,
Darryl.....
 
DDEV........

I was just in Wichita Saturday...........I have a lot of In-Laws that Live in Wichita.......

Do you have a commercial studio in Wichita or a Home Studio......every now and then I have people ask me if I know of a good studio in Wichita........



Thanks...


Pick Man (KC,MO)
 
Pick Man,

Your in-laws in Wichita, and mine are in KC Kansas.

Have you been over to the Home Studio Musician shop in Olathe yet? Really cool place if you haven't had the chance to visit yet.

I just have a home studio (really just a control/mixing room). I've been doing all my recording remotely, but am getting ready to try my hand at my first band, recorded in my basement, in the next few weeks.

My studio is limited to 16 tracks at the moment (16-bit ADAT's). If I can figure out how to make it pay one of these days I intend to add a DAW, but at the moment my wife has put her foot down on any more equipment expenses until I get new windows.

Darryl.....
 
OK, guys, I just spent about 2 hours at my local Home Depot today, and came away with the realization that they have NOTHING that would work well for soundproof construction!

Not one of the offerings in their "Wall of Caulk" has the term "non-hardening" on the label - several use the term "stays flexible" but usually refer to their shrinkage as "minimal" - not good enough.

Who among us wants to have to take walls apart 3-4 years from now and re-caulk, chasing the 5-10 dB loss in sound isolation that happened because some "almost good enough" stuff decided to give us a free 1/16" crack? Certainly not me, building a studio ONCE is once too often, since it takes away from recording time.

After today's little excursion, I personally can't recommend using anything for caulk that isn't actually rated as an Acoustic product. What that means, is that it NEVER hardens totally, doesn't shrink, and has a heavy enough body to retard the transference of sound.

I'm chasing down brands/sources of this ASAP - right now, the only ones I'm aware of are from US Gypsum, OSI, and possibly Owens Corning.

The good news is, the real stuff seems to be available in either 29 oz tubes (large, pro caulk guns) or 5 gallon buckets, and the price is actually CHEAPER than some of the high grade silicon caulks in 10 oz tubes.

More to come when I get it... Steve
 
Michael

I know this isn't on subject per se, but the reason I asked about the type of siding you were going to put above the brick is because I have had some experience with Hardi-plank which is a concrete composite siding that Home Depot carries. You can get it in planks or 4'X8' sheets and it is some nice stuff. I just resided my house with it and it works great. You paint it once and you don't have to paint it again until you want to change the color. It's also got a 50 year warranty. And the price is within $1-$2 of the masonite stuff. The Hardi-plank brand is from an Australian company so John probably knows of it. I have been thrilled with how it has held up and how it looks on my house and it's been on part of it for 3 years now. Still looks great and I don't/won't have to fool with it. You may want to check into it. It sure would save a lot of work down the road. They even make soffit and trim material now from what I understand. That wasn't available when I was doing mine.
 
Mike A - Yeah, I've worked with "hardy plank" before. It's REALLY HEAVY! And I think the nailing pattern is different (not that that's a big deal)
I looked into their pre-made soffits, but I couldn't find anything over 16" wide. My soffits are about 22" wide.
I may still consider it, I haven't ordered the siding yet. The density of it, and its associated mass sure wouldn't hurt the STC!
 
Wow Steve. Thank you very much for saving me that time in home depot. When I'm just browsing/shopping in HD I easily spend that much time, and acoustic caulk possibilities I figured were no exception. Please keep us posted as to a good find. I'll do the same. I'm especially interested. Thanks again...lots!

Dan
 
No prob, Dan - actually, you might have better luck at your particular HD - mine just called back yesterday in response to my question about price and availability of RC-1 Resilient Channel - they told me they couldn't find it in their listings under that part #, and weren't even sure what it WAS until I explained it to them, after which time they just looked like a "deer caught in the headlights"...

Point being, at least one poster here in the last few months mentioned that they found RC-1 at THEIR local Home Depot, and pretty cheap. Apparently, it's a case of YMMV... Steve
 
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