Burning Redbook CDs????

D

dantell

New member
Okay somebody without "geekspeak" or "computer nerd tech" terms tell me how to burn a redbook cd that will play on anything. I have Nero and a cd burner that will burn data and wave files. So will this work or not? and why if not? and can I burn a glass master? What is a glass master? Where do you get glass masters to burn? I thought I had my cd ready to send off for replication and I have a cd that was burned from the guy who mastered my music and it sounds great. He's on vacation so does anyone know how to tell if this is a redbook-glass master or a plastic fuckin' frisbee?
thanks
 
This topic has been covered over and over. Do a search. Nero does not burn Red Book compliant CDs. The least expensive software I know of that does is CD Architect, which you can find for $200US.
 
I believe Nero actually WILL burn RedBook, but I would imagine the important parts (frame-accurate PQ editing, spacing, crossfades, PQ log) are what's missing.

If you're burning discs for yourself, you won't miss a lot of the features. If you're burning for clients, you owe it to them to use the proper tools on something as critical as the final mix discs. Error-checking also (which is also spec'd in the RedBook), but that's for another thread.
 
I think wavelab will burn redbook CDs.

As far as a glass master goes, a pressing plant makes a glass master to press CDs. (i think). It's not like you can buy glass CDRs and burn away.
 
fenix said:
I think wavelab will burn redbook CDs.

As far as a glass master goes, a pressing plant makes a glass master to press CDs. (i think). It's not like you can buy glass CDRs and burn away.
Click to expand...
Wavelabs will burn Redbook,,,,,,,dont ask me about cause I have never been concerned with it to figure it out for myself. I havent had to do runs of cd's.
 
The real importance of RB CDs is not in doing "runs" (I mean, your CDRs will last maybe a couple of years), but in sending a master off to be manufactured. The last thing you want is 1000 coasters.
 
okay so...........

From what I've been reading, a redbook cd needs to be recorded in a "disc at once" format. My Nero has this. It also needs to put a short gap between songs around 2 seconds and my Nero does this. I also own Cakewalk Pyro and it seems to do the same thing. So in other words according to some old posts the only thing that qualifies in making a cd a redbood is being able to record "disk at once" and having a gap between the songs.......Correct?
 
That isn't it. First off, you don't need gaps between the songs. You need a 2 second gap at the beginning of the disk. It has to be done in 'disc at once' mode. It has to have less than a certain amount of errors and a whole host of other things. If you are sending something out for duplication, you also need to provide a PQ sheet and a couple of other things as well. The standard has been stretched lately, to include CDs longer than 74 minutes and CD's with video and other things included on the same disc.
 
Well, when we had our CD duplicated, the duplication company took care of most of the things for us.

They said our master was bad or had a scratch or something... so we ripped the audio and sent another copy. It then passed their tests.
 
I think it's better to KNOW whether there's a problem before you send it out, but maybe that's just me.
 
okay.............. next question

So the duplication house should check and make sure everything's kosher before they duplicate. kewl.... So I've been noticing that some cd's have the burn mark and some don't. From what I'm reading, there is a thing called replication. Hmmmmmmmm. That means they stamp the disc instead of burning it. WHF? and Why theF#*#? Does it sound better? I've also noticed that when they include video in the disc that you can see the break in the disc for video and the burn marks, so a lot of commercial releases have used the cheaper duplication services instead of replication services? I'm actually thinking of checking into a holiday inn express so I can become smart.
 
So the duplication house should check...

That's one way of looking at it. My way is: **I** should check to make sure everything's kosher! I wouldn't take a chance on the dupe house doing or not doing it. In fact, the last one we had manufactured, the literature never said a word about checking what we sent them. Since I did that myself, I didn't worry about it.

CDs work because they have areas of differing reflectivity that act on an optical sensor when the laser beam is bounced off the CD.

In a "manufactured" CD, this difference in reflectivity is caused by pits that are formed in the substrate of the disc. Since this surface is protected by a plastic coating, a CD that has not been abused will last a long long time. You can damage the disc by marring the surface of the plastic coating, but that can be repaired with a Skip Dr or other device that polishes the surface. You can also scratch the label side, which cannot be repaired, since that usually damages the layer that carries the pits as well.

A CDR uses layers of dyes to emulate the pits: that is, the laser zaps the dye and leaves a trail of altered zones that reflect the playback laser in the same fashion that the pits do in a "real" CD. All the things that can happen to a CD can happen to a CDR as well, with the additional problems of heat and light melting the dye layers and leaving you with an unplayable coaster.

For that reason I believe CDRs are good for giveaways but not to sell.

There should be no difference in sound between a manufactured CD and a CDR, at least, until the CDR begins to deteriorate.
 
(A) They should check. I've encountered jobs that haven't been checked, and it wasn't pretty.

(B) Yellow, Green, Orange book stuff - Again, should play on a CD player. Some older players will get fussy. Many "Pro" decks will get VERY fussy.

(C) Typically, "Duplication" refers to short-runs on CD-R stock. "Replication" refers to traditional glass-masster, father, mother, pits-and-valleys-in-molded-plastic with an aluminum reflective sheet stuff.

(D) Either rep/dup technique doesn't sound different - If you only need a couple hundred units, the creation of a glass master, the clean room, (overly simplified version here... http://www.softpack.com/CDROMmanufac.htm ) - It's just cheaper to use CD-R stock if you don't need too many.

(E) There are few, if any commercial releases on CD-R. "Maybe" radio edits that are going to go to 100 markets (again, cheaper than the setup for 1,000 or so units).
 
so manufacturers use cds not cdrs

So what you are saying is you can't use a cd burner to make a CD? Only a CDR? and the duplication service at musician's friend makes CDs without the use of CDRs? Is that correct?
Thanks,

If I wasn't a moron, I could be upgraded to an idiot
 
okay I get it now

CDRs are burned from a replicated glass master. Commercial releases are basically sometimes selling you a higher quality CDR or a cheaper glass master. Some of them are burned and some stamped. So the Silver CDRs are best, with the low end being the blue ones?
 
dantell said:
CDRs are burned from a replicated glass master. Commercial releases are basically sometimes selling you a higher quality CDR or a cheaper glass master. Some of them are burned and some stamped. So the Silver CDRs are best, with the low end being the blue ones?
Click to expand...
What?
A glass master is the CD equivelent of the mold for a vinyl record. It is the master that they stamp the CDs from. A glass master is not something you can make. A manufacturing house makes it from the data that is transfered from the CDR that you submit.

Glass masters have nothing to do with CDRs.

I have never seen a commercial release that was a CDR.

A CD that is manufactured (stamped) is not a CDR, it is just a CD.

The break in the 'burn marks' that you see when there is video (or any data) included on the disc is because, in order for a CD player to play the music, The space the music is on has to have a beginning and an end that is all music. A CD player will ignore anything outside of the music portion, so they put the space between it and the video. It has nothing to do with whether or not it is a CD or a CDR.
 
Ignore the color thing also... Although I have to admit, the DARK blue ones always gave me slightly higher error rates, the others - gold, silver, light blue, green, etc., if they're from a quality factory (as most Japanese discs are), they're fine.

Brand specific? Tayio Yuden is the choice of most pros.
 
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