Building a studio in the Basement

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youngdpeso

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Whats good peeps, my name is Dutch, im a 19 yr old rapper/ producer from chicago and i want to build a studio seperate from my room on the other side of my basement.
The measurements are 104"x 118"x 82"
im looking for needed materials beside wood fro framing and mineral fiber for insulation i plan on building an isolation booth in side the room also

can someone help me from here i have been doing alot of searching and see there are alot of ways i could go. my projected budget is 1500 to 2000 dollars
i have the music equipment now i just need the room can you guys give me some direction i will very grateful thank you for your time
 
Draw a basic plan of the WHOLE basement, tell us EVERYTHING about the space, including HVAC, ducts, furnaces, doors, stairs, pipes, and anything else thats there. Include what is above, what the cieling/floor above is constructed of, direction of joists, materials on floor above, conditions in basement, where you are located, who owns the building and ANYTHING relevant to building something in a city that has juristiction over construction(building inspection department)

Also, do you have tools, construction experience and or knowlege, space to lay out 4'x8' sheets of drywall and or ply, do you have PERMISSION from the owner? Do you sleep down there? Any moisture? Any noise making machinery, and what is right outside the building(trains, buses, freeways, roads, manufacturing plants, airports etc)
 
OK i cleaned out the space today and the measurements are 10x9x8
i wanted to draw out the plan but i cant draw well with a mouse. so i made a list of things you should no

1. there is no evidence of moisture but im waiting on a thunderstorm to see if that is fact.
2. there are no ducts or pipes near this space
3. this is a residential area so no busses no trains only airplane,and the nearest noise maker is a washer and dryer.
4. the basement is unfinished so the ceiling has nothing but joist and they are runnig north and south as my house faces east
5. the floor is concrete but level
6. the stairs to and from the basement is located in the middle so it split the basement in half
7. on one half is my room which i sleep and entertain in on the other is empty space
what is HVAC?
8. it is also a furnace but the furnace and water heater are located in the back of the basement away from the purposed building area
anything else you need to know.

Also i will not need a live room just a room to record vocals as this will be a hip hop and r n b based studio
 
Hello again youngdpeso. Well, I still need to know the following.

1. Who is above, (neighbors or family and what room of the house is it)
2. Are you trying to keep sound from entering the space above COMPLETELY?
3.What is the FINISH floor above(carpet, tile, wood flooring, linoleum?)
4. What kind of room is above?(bedroom?kitchen? living room or what?)
5. DEPTH of cieling/floor joists, from the bottom edge to the underside of the sub flooring of the floor above. (please measure) Most likely they are 2x10 or better.
6. And what type of wood is this sub floor(tongue and groove boards?
Plywood? 2x6 or wider boards with gaps between them or what.
7. Who owns this building?
8. Is there electrical outlets already in the space somewhere? What about lights?

9. Are there any windows?
10. Are the basement walls all concrete or is any walls constructed of framed wood. And if any are framed wood, is there drywall on it already?
Any signs of moisture leakage through the floor or walls?
11. Is the furnace a FORCE AIR FURNACE..in other words, are there ducts going to rooms above? Are there ducts carrying warm air to the basement?
If not, how is the basement heated?
12. Is there walls on each side of the stairway?
13. Where is the washer/dryer. If theres no pipes, how does the washer get water? :rolleyes: And if there is no ducts, how does the furnace heat the rooms? See what I mean. Do NOT assume anything.

Last question for now. HOW BAD DO YOU NEED THIS and WHY?

Now a few about your sound. First off, you must understand that RAP is mostly LOW FREQUENCY sounds. Bass drum and bass being the most prominent. And it is those sounds that are the worst to try and isolate from other spaces. Structural vibration is your worst enemy. Low frequency sound can transmit very easily through the concrete by your speakers being coupled with the floor through a stand, table, desk etc. Also, LF sound will vibrate walls, and everything else as well, which in turn vibrates the air in adjacent spaces and even to the outside. This is called TRANSMISSION. It is this exact problem that we must address when designing the wall/cieling and monitor isolation solutions. Hence, all the questions. When sound meets a boundary, and vibrates this boundary, sound looses SOME of its energy. It is this loss of energy that we are interested in, and is called TRANSMISSION LOSS. This is what we want. LOTS of transmission LOSS. ;) And there are only two ways to get it.

MASS

However, mass alone won't help you if the sound flanks via structural transmission.

Hence, we must use :

"DECOUPLED" MASS

However, once you achieve ISOLATION, because the sound reflections have no where to go, now you need to ABSORB them. More on that later.
Ok, thats enough for the moment. :D Answer those questions and I'll be back to help you sort out a plan of action.

im looking for needed materials beside wood fro framing and mineral fiber for insulation i plan on building an isolation booth in side the room also

Well, untill we know exactly what we are dealing with it makes no sense to even go there yet. In the mean time, I'm going to post a drawing of your basement for you to correct, since you say you can't draw with a mouse. Although, even a simple floor plan done in MS paint would help a lot. Show the space, stairs, furnace etc, and give dimensions( measure each thing and punch in the dimensions by hand in the drawing. This is REAL important.

Or if you have a digital camera, post some pics of the space but that still don't give me dimensions. Untill then, here is a drawing for you to correct. I am totally guessing at this point so bear with me.
Take a look and tell me whats wrong, and give me the dimensions for each of the letters. Well, thats all for now. Later.
fitz
 

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1. Family and it is the tv room
2. completely
3. Wood floor
4. Tv Room / Den
5. not sure if i under stood you but i got 8.5'
6.?
7. My mom
8. no outlest but it is a light in the area
9. 1 glass block window
10. Concrete, no signs of leakage but will still water proof to be sure
11. Force air furnace but the basement isnt heated, and none of the ducts are in the proposed area
12. no
13. the washer and dryer are along the back wall but none of the pipes are in the proposed area
14. Very bad. im trying to cut back my studio cost and this will do the job as well i like the comfort of my home when working and getting up and just walking across the hall and getting to business.
Also my mom has complained about the present noise i make from 6 pm to 5 am everyday of the week so she gave me the go to build on the unused space in the basement.
 

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:eek: :D Cool. That wasn't hard was it? :p Now we can get down to business. Ok, lets look at each statement and expand on its implications.

Q. 1. Who is above, (neighbors or family and what room of the house is it)
A. 1. Family and it is the tv room.

This implys that at certain times, people will be generating noise at the same time you are. This translates into a ROBUST MASS ceiling solution. What this means is ADDING MASS to the UNDERSIDE of the floor above. This is called the 2nd LEAF. Once this is installed CORRECTLY, and I do mean correctly, then other things can be done. However, there are many other things to do prior to this step. I'll give you a list of things to do once our schedule of solutions is in place. One thing I ask here.

DO NOT JUMP THE GUN AND START ANYTHING UNTILL EVERY DETAIL IS ADDRESSED. Otherwise, you could jeprodize the entire project by overlooking an important step before I can post it. OK? Ok. Now that we are clear, lets move on.

Q. 2. Are you trying to keep sound from entering the space above COMPLETELY?
A. 2. completely
:eek: Let me make something absolutely clear here. There is NO such thing as absolute "soundproof", especially with LOW FREQUENCY. But what we can do, is guarantee we meet a TRANSMISSION LOSS RATING. Let me explain.

The ONLY way designers of structures know that what they are designing will meet "sound transmission criteria", is to know what that criteria is, and trust the RATING given to a type of assembly by a TESTING LABRATORY.
These ratings are usualy given in whats known as STC ratings, which means SOUND TRANSMISSION CLASS. For instance, a standard residential wall assembly built with WOOD STUDS and ONE layer of 1/2" drywall on each face is given a rating by a labratory after testing for SOUND TRANSMISSION through it. Here are a set of examples showing the ratings of various types of WALL ASSEMBLIES. However, STC is a rating of how the assembly inhibits the transmission of SPEECH, not music. But it will serve to illustrate some concepts.

partitions2c_663_146.gif


Notice that the one on the far left is a standard residential wall assembly. This is called a TWO LEAF assembly, as it has ONE LEAF of mass, an airgap, and another LEAF of mass on the opposite side of the framing. Note it has an STC rating of 33. Now look at the next one. It is also a TWO LEAF system. However, the stud cavity, or airgap, has been filled with batt type insulation, and the STC rating has improved to 36.
Now look at the next one. This is a DOUBLE WALL, with drywall on each face of BOTH walls, and it has an improved STC rating of 40. This assembly is called a FOUR LEAF system, as it has four leafs of mass, and THREE AIRGAPS, two of which are filled with insulation in the stud cavitys, just as in the prior example. The airgap between the walls is empty. But now look at the next example.
:eek: HOLY SHIT. In this example, one leaf of mass has been removed, and the STC rating JUMPS to 50!!!! This is called a THREE LEAF system, and it has a better rating than the four leaf system. WTF????? :confused:
Now look at the next example.
GOOOOOOOOOOOD GRIEF...In this example, ANOTHER interior leaf is removed, one layer of drywall is added to each leaf, and the STC skyrockets to 63...AND, we are back to a TWO LEAF system. However, because each leaf of mass is DECOUPLED from each other by virtue of their OWN FRAMING. :eek: :eek: :D Now do you begin to see why we must use DECOUPLED MASS?????? My friend, this is called PHYSICS. These are proven concepts, and this is why, in order to achieve the rating we are after, you MUST ADHERE to the concepts. This means paying attention to EVERY SINGLE DETAIL, in order to keep the decoupling intact. However, there are a ton of details to address. Later on those issues though.
But now we have a problem :confused:

How do you know the rating you need to COMPLETELY stop the transmission of sound through the existing structure, if you don't know how much sound transmission you have currently? I'll tell you how. MEASURE IT :eek: ;) And how do we measure it? With a sound level meter, thats how!!! So, your first assignment is to purchase a sound meter. You can get one from Radio Shack.
They're not very expensive, and fairly easy to use. More on that later. But here is what you have to do. Move your setup to this space you are going to enclose, and set up the speakers in the general location that you will ultimately have them setup(More on that subject later). Proceed to playback some TYPICAL music like you will be recording, at the TYPICAL volume. Now you will measure the sound at 1', 3', & 10' from the speakers(you will have to set the meter to an "A" wieghting I believe. More on that later} Once you know the TYPICAL sound level you will be generating, THEN, its time to do the same thing in the ROOM ABOVE. Once you know what sound level you are generating(db profile), and how loud it is in the room above, we will have an idea of how good/bad the EXISTING transmission loss through the floor and structure is. However, even though this is something only experienced acousticians can ABSOLUTELY determine and interpret into a solution, it will give us an approximate idea of what you are up against. Once we have these values, there are some experts here that we can call on to interpret them, and suggest an appropriate set of solutions. More on that later, although I'm sure our experts have an opinion on this suggestion, good or bad. Lets hope good :D In any event, this is what I would do in your shoes without the luxury of hiring an acoustician. Hey, whatta ya want for free? :rolleyes: ;) :p :D

Ok, listen, for the moment I'm outta time, but I'll be back later to carry on.
And PUUUUUUUUUUULESE, excuse my verbose replys, but how else can one TRULY help someone under these circumstances. Simply telling you a MASS AIR MASS system is what you need, actually tells you nothing in regard to actually BUILDING THE DAMN THING. So hang in there, I'll be back.
fitZ
 
Hello youngdpeso. Say, I haven't forgot about you. ;) I work and have my own daily stuff, so I don't always get a chance to progress on a thread. And this one is no exception. Frankly, an isolation project of this scope, no matter how small, requires the same level of forethought that many bigger projects need, its just a smaller scale. But here is something to think about. No matter the size, when you start building walls and partitioning off space, installing electrical, doors and things of this nature, it is usually under the permission of your local building inspection department by way of a permit. I suggest you visit them and explain what you plan to do and see if it is. In the meantime READ this. It is self explanitory.
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4442&sid=35bf20235b559565bffd29788edcab72

Time for work. Later.
 
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