Building a Mixing/Recording Room

[kennycarvajal]

Hello! Interested in getting some pointers and what to look out for. Hope some of you could provide some tips.

I'm currently recording and mixing in a spare room and have decided to finish a basement in the spring to turn into my studio. I want to build the room so that it could also appeal as a living space if we ever decide to sell the house and move. The room is going to be sufficient size for what I need. Roughly 13 x 20

My concern is that the ceiling is quite low. Roughly 7 feet tall (6' 7", 6' 9" in some areas). The floor is slanted a little bit, which I was planning on correcting by laying a floor board to level it out. I would like to insulate and drywall the ceiling to help minimize the sound from travelling to the upstairs bedrooms. But the thing is it has exposed pipes going across the floor joists, which means that the ceiling would drop lower by another 3 inches or so.

My question is, what type of problems would I have mixing in such a low celing room? I realize I would have to treat it but minimal treatment would be ideal.

Any tips would be lovely.

Thanks in advance!

Kenny

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

I realize I would have to treat it but minimal treatment would be ideal.

You will need ALL the absorption you can provide. For isolation, I would suggest adding 2 layers of 5/8" drywall TO THE UNDERSIDE of the existing sub flooring, using screws, adhesive, or cleats, and CAULKING EVERY SEAM, JOINT AND gap. Then stuff batt type insulation in the joist cavities, using plastic strapping to hold it up. However, the next step needs to be PRE PLANNED prior to doing the previous work. This solution requires dropping a SUSPENDED ceiling using Risc isolators and hatchannel with 2 or more layers of 5/8 drywall fastened to the hatchannel. The hatchannel can suspend as little as a 1/2" belowthe lowest exposed elements such as pipes. However, this all presumes all other flanking paths such as HVAC ducting, stair envelopes, pipes, doors, furnaces and structural pathways from UN DECOUPLED wall surfaces etc are fully addressed, as "weak link" syndrome can waste all your hard work and money.

I would suggest reading as much as you can here(especially the "stickys")
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=2&sid=f8f186822f24bb012e5d73978154c7ca

As far as treating the ceiling, you have two options. One, if HIGH ISOLATION not an issue, then leave out the suspended ceiling(only do the multiple layered drywall between joists), substitute RIGID FIBERGLASS instead of BATT type insulation, and nail furring strups over it for stapling fabric over it. Remember to treat the fabric with a fire retardant though prior to installing.

However, if you still need Hi SPL isolation, do the suspended ceiling, and add a "cloud" of 4" Owens Corning 703 over the engineering position for ceiling treatment. as well as corner bass traps made of "superchunks" of same, even at wall/ceiling intersections as well as wall/wall intersections. Also, liberal use of broadband absorption panels at early reflection points along sidewalls(the cloud takes care of ER points on the ceiling), and a combination of broadband absorbers/diffusers on the rear wall. This all has many budget/skill/tool/time and knowlege caveats. Information is king in this regard. Don't hesitate to ask pertinent questions. Same at the linked site.
Here is a TON of info as well as the "superchunk" suggestion for basstraps.
Scroll down to the "treatment section"
http://forum.studiotips.com/index.php
Heres more.
http://www.realtraps.com/art_studio.htm
fitZ

 

[kennycarvajal]

Rick, thank you very much for your very informative reply. I will definitely be reading the links you provided.

Kenny

 

[jonnyc]

You will need ALL the absorption you can provide. For isolation, I would suggest adding 2 layers of 5/8" drywall TO THE UNDERSIDE of the existing sub flooring, using screws, adhesive, or cleats, and CAULKING EVERY SEAM, JOINT AND gap. Then stuff batt type insulation in the joist cavities, using plastic strapping to hold it up. However, the next step needs to be PRE PLANNED prior to doing the previous work. This solution requires dropping a SUSPENDED ceiling using Risc isolators and hatchannel with 2 or more layers of 5/8 drywall fastened to the hatchannel. The hatchannel can suspend as little as a 1/2" belowthe lowest exposed elements such as pipes. However, this all presumes all other flanking paths such as HVAC ducting, stair envelopes, pipes, doors, furnaces and structural pathways from UN DECOUPLED wall surfaces etc are fully addressed, as "weak link" syndrome can waste all your hard work and money.

I would suggest reading as much as you can here(especially the "stickys")
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=2&sid=f8f186822f24bb012e5d73978154c7ca

As far as treating the ceiling, you have two options. One, if HIGH ISOLATION not an issue, then leave out the suspended ceiling(only do the multiple layered drywall between joists), substitute RIGID FIBERGLASS instead of BATT type insulation, and nail furring strups over it for stapling fabric over it. Remember to treat the fabric with a fire retardant though prior to installing.

However, if you still need Hi SPL isolation, do the suspended ceiling, and add a "cloud" of 4" Owens Corning 703 over the engineering position for ceiling treatment. as well as corner bass traps made of "superchunks" of same, even at wall/ceiling intersections as well as wall/wall intersections. Also, liberal use of broadband absorption panels at early reflection points along sidewalls(the cloud takes care of ER points on the ceiling), and a combination of broadband absorbers/diffusers on the rear wall. This all has many budget/skill/tool/time and knowlege caveats. Information is king in this regard. Don't hesitate to ask pertinent questions. Same at the linked site.
Here is a TON of info as well as the "superchunk" suggestion for basstraps.
Scroll down to the "treatment section"
http://forum.studiotips.com/index.php
Heres more.
http://www.realtraps.com/art_studio.htm
fitZ

If he did a drop ceiling then wouldn't that shrink down his overall height to about 6 and a half feet? I'd think that was way too low. I have a set up in my basement and used two layers of drywall screwed straight the the floor joists. May not be the most acoustical way to do it but if you ever plan on reselling it may be a problem to some people having a ceiling at less than 6 and a half feet. But what the hell do I know.

 

[RICK FITZPATRICK]

If he did a drop ceiling then wouldn't that shrink down his overall height to about 6 and a half feet?

So? If he needs isolation, what would YOU suggest? Many people mix in similar conditions, as basements are notoriously low. But once you put a cloud up, who cares. The reflections disappear. So, whats the problem. Like I said, if HIGH SPL isolation ISN"T a problem, then a couple of layers of drywall added to the underside of the subfloor should HELP, and the rigid fiberglass with fabric over it will make the ceiling virtually disappear, reflection wise, and given the fact that joists are relatively deep, if FILLED with rigid fiberglass(allowing a 1" airgap between the fiberglass and drywall above) should make for very effective bass trapping as well as broadband absorption. The only real problem is visual, if you are clasustraphobic or are 6'6" tall
I would say don't worry about things you can't do anything about, especially if the solution WORKS.

 

[kennycarvajal]

Rick,

To correct my slanted floor issue, would it work by simply using multiple Neoprene pads (like shims) to raise the lower areas when laying the 2x4's for the floors?

HIGH SPL isolation isn't really an issue. I would just simply like to reduce the noise somewhat, compared to an exposed ceiling.

Just wanted to get something cleared though. When you say...

"The rigid fiberglass with fabric over it"

Do you mean this behind the dual layered drywall? Is the fabric (stapled I assume) the peice that's going to hold the fiberglass up 1" from the drywall?

I'm very interested in the bass-trapping idea since my music usually consists of alot of bass.

Thanks again!

Kenny