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anemicrock
New member
Oh yea. The only reason I'm asking this is because I was mainly wondering if applying this triple stud system in the corners would effect the sound escaping or something like that somehow. I have done my research for basic frame building so I'm not just jumping on this board asking question without doing a bit of homework.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Roguetitan
New member
looks good to me
and once you have your walls built you will want to put bass traps in the corners. You will want to use material that will absorb the sound wave, don't use dense foamor other dense materials which will only cause the sound wave to bounce off of the walls. Or if you do use dense materials for bulk make sure to use some kind of absorbent material on the outer side JM.02
and once you have your walls built you will want to put bass traps in the corners. You will want to use material that will absorb the sound wave, don't use dense foamor other dense materials which will only cause the sound wave to bounce off of the walls. Or if you do use dense materials for bulk make sure to use some kind of absorbent material on the outer side JM.02
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anemicrock
New member
Cool. Glad to hear that using three studs for the corners shouldn't cause any problems.
For the bass traps I was just going to make them out of the same 4" Mineral Wool I will be using to stuff between the studs in my wall. Here is the http://customaudiodesigns.co.uk/soundproofing/amw.htm
For the bass traps I was just going to make them out of the same 4" Mineral Wool I will be using to stuff between the studs in my wall. Here is the http://customaudiodesigns.co.uk/soundproofing/amw.htm
Roguetitan
New member
that is pretty much what everyone makes bass traps out of, inexpensive and very effective
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anemicrock
New member
Thanks Roguetitan for that bit of info. I was wondering what's best for bass traps. I would assume the 4' option would be the way to go. But my main concern now is, can I use this 4' Mineral wool for my insulation between the studs or will this not suffice for soundproofing?
RICK FITZPATRICK
New member
Hello anemicrock. It's all about density. You don't need to use the same stuff in the stud cavities as you do for bass traps. In fact, you can use standard "fluffy" fiberglass batt type insulation in the stud cavities. Don't stuff more in than a standard wall. As to "soundproofing", there is more to this than the insulation. Can you describe your OVERALL proposed assemblies. I mean describe what the floor, wall, cieling, HVAC, and door assemblies are going to be comprised of? This is really where "soundproofing" can be compromised. For instance, is this a room in a room design? Is this on a second floor? Are you tieing in to existing HVAC? Please tell us all you can.
fitZ
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anemicrock
New member
Hello RICK FITZPATRICK. Thank you very much for the info. I'm glad to hear that I can use the normal "fluffy stuff" in my studs as the so called "miracle wool" was starting to get pricey.
My apologies for the lack of details regarding my project. Hopefully this shall clear things up.
I'm making a 6 foot by 9 foot floor. Those calculations will be on the "Inside of the drum booth" and the ceiling will probably be 7 1/2 or 8 foot tall. I will be using a mass-spring-mass type wall system using staggered studs and a 3' spring gap. The thickest plasterboard I can get. Using green Glue to sandwich them together. Exactly like the far right design in the attached pic. The floor will be raised using U-boats or something similar to cut down on cost and using MDF,Green Glue,Plasterboard and then whatever I decide on for the nice finish floor. I will most probably assemble the ceiling the same way. I'm think of leaving a 1/4 gap at the top and bottom of my walls to stuff some foam rods in and sealing it up with some Everflex AC50 and every other place needed. The build will take place on my roof top terrace. The structure will defiantly hold. I live with an architect so I have been given the all clear. My only concerns are A/C and the doors. I don't know what's best for A/C and I am NOT going to skimp out on the doors. Tha's where I will spend the money if I have to. I want to get Proper Sound doors. I don't see the point in building perfect walls just to have a shitty door.
I hope this is all making sense and you can get a better idea of what I'm trying to achieve. Oh and the room will be used for heavy rock drums and guitar cabs. Not all going at once. I prefer to track one at a time.
By the way I live in the UK so any materials recommended I will need to be able to get here. One last thing, What's the best material I get get in the UK for bass traps in the room once it's built? I need it for my control room also. I only ask as I have heard conflicting info about this.
Thank you once again guys for all your advise.
Kevin
My apologies for the lack of details regarding my project. Hopefully this shall clear things up.
I'm making a 6 foot by 9 foot floor. Those calculations will be on the "Inside of the drum booth" and the ceiling will probably be 7 1/2 or 8 foot tall. I will be using a mass-spring-mass type wall system using staggered studs and a 3' spring gap. The thickest plasterboard I can get. Using green Glue to sandwich them together. Exactly like the far right design in the attached pic. The floor will be raised using U-boats or something similar to cut down on cost and using MDF,Green Glue,Plasterboard and then whatever I decide on for the nice finish floor. I will most probably assemble the ceiling the same way. I'm think of leaving a 1/4 gap at the top and bottom of my walls to stuff some foam rods in and sealing it up with some Everflex AC50 and every other place needed. The build will take place on my roof top terrace. The structure will defiantly hold. I live with an architect so I have been given the all clear. My only concerns are A/C and the doors. I don't know what's best for A/C and I am NOT going to skimp out on the doors. Tha's where I will spend the money if I have to. I want to get Proper Sound doors. I don't see the point in building perfect walls just to have a shitty door.
I hope this is all making sense and you can get a better idea of what I'm trying to achieve. Oh and the room will be used for heavy rock drums and guitar cabs. Not all going at once. I prefer to track one at a time.
By the way I live in the UK so any materials recommended I will need to be able to get here. One last thing, What's the best material I get get in the UK for bass traps in the room once it's built? I need it for my control room also. I only ask as I have heard conflicting info about this.
Thank you once again guys for all your advise.
Kevin
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RICK FITZPATRICK
New member
How does one get a THREE FOOT spring gap in a STAGGERED STUD design. Unless the plates are 3' wide!!
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anemicrock
New member
I meant THREE INCHES!
Roguetitan
New member
This is just my opinion so take it for what it is worth.
i perferr to use the term of sound deadning/deflecting because unless you are a rich person you will never get a totally sound proof room.
in my opinion you need to use something with more density in the walls such as pink foam insulation perferrably 2 pieces of 2" put together in the walls before sheet rocking the interior. This dense foam will do a better job to deflect any outside sounds such as barking dogs, loud veichles and car stereo sub woofers, then you can use 2 " wool fiber board outside of the sheet rock and cover the wool with some fabric or either sound treatment foam for even more sound absorption properties and a more pro studio look and feel. this will help to absorb any outside noises that were not deflected by the dense inner walls and will also absorb the sound in the room.
like I said before if you can afford a block structure and fill the block cells with either concrete or foam this is your best option
you also may want to consider by the time you spend the money it takes to properly treat a room you could have built a block structure.
JM.02
oh yes you would be better off to use thicker material for any bass traps and any sound deadning drum platforms.
Roguetitan
New member
dont take everything so literally
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anemicrock
New member
I know you we're only kidding. It's just been a long long day reading up on how to do this right. Looks like the only trouble i'm going to have is buying a good sound lock door in the uk. Or how to make a really good one.
RICK FITZPATRICK
New member
With all due respect...BULLSHIT!! Foam does NOTHING for TRANSMISSION LOSS!!!! It has no MASS! In fact, foam(hard foam or soft foam has NO Transmission Loss qualities. I think you better read up on this stuff Roguetitan
Using batt type insulation helps dampen the drywall as well as absorb SOME hi frequency. Dense foam actuall will INCREASE structural transmission from one drywall to the other, if it touchs both planes of studs and or the drywalls, as it is HARD. In other words, it COUPLES the two LEAFS TOGEATHER!fitZ
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anemicrock
New member
Just about to say the same thing!
Roguetitan
New member
With all due respect...BULLSHIT!! Foam does NOTHING for TRANSMISSION LOSS!!!! It has no MASS! In fact, foam(hard foam or soft foam has NO Transmission Loss qualities. I think you better read up on this stuff Roguetitan
fitZ
well, like I said; My opinion,that is what I used in my walls and it works very well for keeping outside noises outside FYI.
It may not be the way you would do it but that is the way I did it
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anemicrock
New member
That's great it worked for you. Glad to hear it but my problem is I got to keep inside noise from getting out mainly.
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