Basement studio...noise from above...

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rgraves

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Hey guys,

I have a question about having a studio in the basement.
Currently I have a basement studio and it works out great when it's just me and other musicians in the basement, but when others are over that don't care about recording (wife,kids) it's quite a hassle. If they are on the 2nd floor, there is no problem. But when they are on the main floor, walking in the kitchen or going up and down stairs, it's horribly loud and basically ruins any recording I might have been working on.

There are loud thumps from the footsteps, etc.

So, what I was wondering is, when we are ready to move to a new house (in the near future) is there a way to prevent this problem? That is, prevent noise from the upper floors, so that people can go about their business in the upper floors, while I record in the basement.

Cost isn't really an issue, within reason, but I really need to address this because it limits my recording time EXTREMELY.
 
http://www.auralex.com/c_studio_construction/c_studio_construction.asp

You might be able to find out some stuff there about treating the inside of the walls/floors/ceiling before they are finished...

Basically what you need is sound isolation, not acoustic treatment (adding a whole lot foam probably won't be the solution). That sheetblok stuff is used for isolation (and you could probably find a cheaper alternative)...because really all you want is dense material or a lot of dead air between your basement and the upper floors to prevent sound from getting in and out...I have no real personal experience with sound isolation however I've done my fair share of research...

hope that helps
 
Yeah, the term lumberintoad said, ISOLATION. That is your goal to achieve for keeping unwanted noise out and keeping unwanted noise within from escaping. Decoupling and mass, two terms you may want to search this forum for, are means to achieve isolation. Mass means dense stuff that sound doesn't easily pentrate, which would ideally result in transmission loss. Transmission loss, if you think about the term, means exactly what it is...loss of transmitting, I guess in this case audio, and what some people refer to as "soundproofing". Let's exaggerate a little just to understand the principle of the terms you will run across when you do your search in here and on Ethan Winer's website and John L Sayers's website, which I'm sure you are going to do as your next step ;) ...imagine that you had a 1' thick concrete box sealed on all six planes (4 walls, 1 ceiling and 1 floor, and we're pretending here so don't worry about the door, etc in this little scenario). Probably not alot of mid or high frequencies are going to escape from the inside out (though it would seem that low frequency vibrations may as concrete still passes vibrations, I believe only low frequencies...help me if I'm wrong guys :confused: ). Anyway, that "mass" would be a good step in isolating the sound from within to keeping it within. Now introduce the term decoupling, which helps to further isolate your inner environment. So if you built a wood room inside of that concrete box and used the concept of shock absorbing components (rubber pucks seem to be popular talk around here, though I used expansion joint material for my walls and slab connections) that minimize passing of vibration from your inner box (the wood-framed room walls, floor and ceiling) to the inner walls of your outer box (the sealed concrete room I'm hypothetically talking about) and physically separate the two surfaces with only the absorbant medium (rubber pucks) connecting the two rooms. So you have limited the vibrations's abilities to travel through things like walls, floors, and ceilings by separating the surfaces of the vibration-transferring mediums such as wood, drywall, and concrete. So then the sound is isolated in your studio room(s), your "room within a room". Now you need to treat the inside of your room(s) to control all of this sound you wanted not to get out. Now you enter the world of room design (angles of walls and ceiling to channel sound relative to your mix position after you have a decoupling plan in place) and room treatment (medium to absorb or diffuse different sound frequencies...to control them). The above is just a way to describe in practical language (hopefully) what you would ideally want to do to isolate from the inside out and vice-versa so you understand the concept of what it sounds like you are wanting to do. This was hypothetical to explain the concept, but there are several products and methods not so enveloping that you could use to help your situation, but may not give you absolute isolation. Anyway, that's the best stab I could take at explaining the principle of what you are looking to do.

Those condensors are pretty sensitive, huh? I used to track in my Florida room in my house. Even with no one home, I would still hear little things through the windows and even the hum of a refrigerator in the next room. For your new house, basement would be good for transmission lost through walls and floor. For the ceiling, www.johnlsayers.com may have some ideas. Three that come to mind are the resilient channel and sheeblok mentioned by lumberintoad, and maybe a suspended ceiling for your studio space attached to the upper floor's joists by metal iron connectors. I believe someone had recommended in a similar situation here before, insulation between the joists and double drywall to cut down on sound transmission.
 
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Hmm, lots of good ideas...it seems this won't be something that could be accomplished normally through making some simple requests from the home builder...it sounds like it would require modification after the fact. I doubt any of the home builders run into this kind of request very often.

Looks like I've got a lot of reading to do...
 
yeah builders would be like wtf are you gonna be doin in that basement, a meth lab??

isolation, using concrete subwalls, sheetblock, flameretartdent materials etc all raise eyebrows :) :D :D
 
If you're planning on a NEW house being built for YOU (as opposed to shopping for an already-built house) you could start by

specifying higher dead-load specs for the ground floor joist system so it can handle the extra weight of at least three layers of 5/8" drywall; two below the joists and one layer cut into strips and inserted between joists, for increased mass in both leaves of the studio's ceiling (the ground floor)

Specifying more "cushiony" floor coverings for upstairs - thicker, deluxe pad under carpets, thicker underlayment or "floated" hardwood (carpet's better for the impact noise of footfalls)

Specifying that the basement be left UN-finished - you won't find a local drywall or carpenter guy that has clue # 1 about the RIGHT way to isolate sound. You'll need to either hire a specialist or do it yourself (with guidance of course :=)

Specify that the stairs do NOT get fastened directly to your wall framing - there is (IIRC) a section of Rod's book (which you'd be a complete idiot NOT to buy if you're going this far) that shows this done right.

Specify solid SLAB door into the basement, with NO molding covering the jamb - you'll want to kill this MAJOR sound leak by stuffing insulation in the cracks all around the door, pushing it back at least the depth of the drywall, and filling the edges with joint compound and THEN adding the molding. You'll also need some sort of drop seal on the doors - Zero International is a good source for seal kits.

There are a ton more things to watch for - again, the best investment you could possibly make is Rod's book, "Home Recording Studio - build it like the Pros" - I was starting to work on a better "FAQ" for John's site til Rod had his published, now I just tell people to get his book - if you can't afford the book, you shouldn't try to build anything anyway, and he covers things so well it's not worth my time to "re-invent the wheel"... Steve
 
>>> As long as you are having a basement put in, get them to dig it an extra foor or two deeper. The #3 problem with basement studios (after water infiltration and noise from above) is not enough headroom to do good ceiling/floor treatments. Consider the ductwork, plumbing, etc that you want to hide above a ceiling and eliminate noise from also.
 
TragikRemix said:
yeah builders would be like wtf are you gonna be doin in that basement, a meth lab??
:) :D :D

In my little project, I'm wondering if my neighbors are thinking the same thing. The ones to either side I talk to and know what it is, but the ones in back I rarely do. Let's see, a new addition with no windows, I'm in and out of the space at odd hours in the night, located in a general Miami area location... hmmm... :D
 
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