Auralex Sheet Block.....how effective is it?

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drumphil

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I've converted the 2-car garage of my split level house into a studio. With a house of this design the garage is very much connected to the rest of the house. So 100% soundproofing is not a reality. However, I'm wondering if using Auralex Sheet Block would make enough of a significant difference to be worth the extra cost.
My question is, has anyone out there ever used Sheet Block on a studio similar to mine? And, if so, how effective was it?
PHIL
 
This stuff is expensive, but it DOES work. I have it on a wall between layers of sheetrock...which is what you'll have to do if you want it to hang correctly. It's a bitch to work with because of it's weight (you'll need at least two guys to install it) and you'll want to make all your cuts before you hang it, but it's worth the work. Of course, if you have a door on that same wall going into the house, you'll need to do some extensive work on that also, otherwise it'll be a bit of a waste installing sheetblock.

My install is on one half of a double wall system (from outside layer to outside layer goes like this: 5/8" sheetrock -layer of sheetblock -5/8" sheetrock - metal studs with 3" mineral wool - 6" space - metal studs with 3" mineral wool - 5/8" sheetrock - 5/8" sheetrock). These walls are between my control room and my tracking room and each wall has a door and a 4'x8' window. I get a miniscule amount of sound through the doors, but the walls and windows are solid. I'm sure the sheetblock has a lot to do with that.

If you can't get that extreme, you could put the sheetblock over the existing wall and cover that with another layer of sheetrock. I'm sure that will make a significant difference...but you'll still have to work on the door. A lot of sound gets through doors.

So, after all that, my opinion is...go with the sheetblock. It definitely can't hurt. But if you're not going to cover it with sheetrock or do any work to your door, save your money. It's up to you...you know how much money you want to spend and how much work you have to do.

And, I've never used the Auralex brand. I got mine for Silent Source (bought a huge roll of it and still have quite a bit left), but I could drive there and pick it up so I save a boatload on shipping.
 
Just a couple of points...

If you're going to use limp mass vinyl (generic term) then it should be mounted limply (hence the name) on the stud surface - not between the layers of drywall. Between the drywall, all it does is add mass. You can do that a lot cheaper and easier by just adding another layer of drywall.

If you want something between the layers to help with isolation, look at a viscoelastic solution like Audio Alloy's Green Glue. It tests out BETTER and is cheaper than using vinyl between the layers.
 
bpape said:
Just a couple of points...

If you're going to use limp mass vinyl (generic term) then it should be mounted limply (hence the name) on the stud surface - not between the layers of drywall. Between the drywall, all it does is add mass. You can do that a lot cheaper and easier by just adding another layer of drywall.

If you want something between the layers to help with isolation, look at a viscoelastic solution like Audio Alloy's Green Glue. It tests out BETTER and is cheaper than using vinyl between the layers.

This post is right on the money - if it's going between sheets - green glue is a much better buy for the money - and it out-performs any of the mass loaded vinyls by leaps and bounds.

Rod
 
Sheetblock is really for saving space. If you don't want to take up another inch of square footage in your studio, sheetblock is only 1/8" thick.

I like the picture in that pdf... Big red arrow on this side of the wall, little yellow arrow on the other side. ahh, I get it now! :D
 
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