ASAP! Is it OK to transport a Hammond organ on it's back?

N

notCardio

I walk the line
Just typed out a really nice long post, ony to have it time out and log me out, losing everything!

Nutshell: I need to transport a Hammond, tonewheel, tube amp organ tomorrow.

Can I put it on it's back, or will something fall out of place or get damaged?

Thanks!
 
I've only tore into one of those, but I don't recall anything falling out of place by turning it on it's back.................but damn.....that was in the 60s.
 
c7sus said:
You're gonna have oil all over the place if you tip it onto it's back.
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Crap! I didn't think about that.

My guess is that this thing hasn't been oiled in decades, so it might be completely dry, but of course I wouldn't know for sure unless I tore it apart.

I might have to pass on it unless I can figure out how to get it home in the time frame allotted without it costing an arm and a leg.
 
Come to think of it, I'd have to literally tear it apart to see. Every one of the electrical connections for every note going to the tonewheel would have to be cut. I'd never get it back together without sending it to a pro.
 
There's not that much oil in there....maybe an ounce, if all the cups are full....and besides, when the tone wheel runs, it's getting oil all over everything anyway....that's why there's usually a fiberglass panel underneath...to catch the oil so it's not dripping on the bottom where the main amp/tubes are.

What model is it?
I have an L100 in my studio....1965 vintage.

If it hasn't been oiled in years....it most likely will not work at all or it will grind and squeal like crazy...so turn it on, and if it's quiet, you know it's been kept up.

Open the back, and look at the oil cups....if there's oil still in the cups, just soak it up with some cotton or some rags. There is also the metal drip channel that catches most of the excess oil coming off the tone wheel....you should be able to gently stick a couple of rags in there to soak up any excess oil.
After that....turn it on its side and drive it home. Then oil it before using....just enough to fill the cups, and a few drops at the motor (there should be a small cap where the oil goes). Check it once/twice a year.
When I moved mine, I didn’t even take out the tube….just avoid the pot holes and bumps on the way home.
 
The tone wheel is a spinning axle with lots and lots of circular metal discs, and there's the motor that turns it....the oil keeps the metal lubricated, since it has to spin at the right speed all the time.

I didn't check the oil in mine for about a year and half....last winter when I fired it up one time, it was running for about 10 minutes, and then I heard a little grind. I quickly shut it of, opened it up, and dabbed a little oil along the entire axle at ever disc....filled the cups...let it sit for about an hour....then fired her up again, and quiet as a mouse.
Now I put a small label by the power button with the date of the last oiling, so I don't ever let it go that long again.


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Ohhhh, epiphany. Thanks Miro. I knew organs used tonewheels, but that's far more complicated than I ever thought.
 
Slowrider said:
One of my old Morleys, was dry as a bone.
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The oil cans in Morley pedals are sealed with essentially a paint can lid, at least the one on my Rotating Wah is.

Ever tried to buy that oil? It's more expensive than Leslie oil!

I've got some around here somewhere.

My RW has some pitting on the disk that does the echos, so it makes a clicking sound with every revolution.
 
Well being as no one has mentioned...bunch a hacks..:facepalm:

Before you ever move a hammond you need to bolt it down..... bolt it down you say?

Yes .... not so important to unbolt it ...but I moved Hammond as a teen...easiest way to screw one up is not to bolt them down....

..when unbolted the tone generator floats..when bolted down the tone generator is stationary

Under the tone generator there are 4 bolts with these little metal tube things that pointed one way let it float, turned around hold it stationary...

Not sure about the oil and the spillage...never had to move one on it's side but if it leaks no big deal ...you clean it up and refill the cups with OEM Hammond oil....not 3 n 1 or some other bs oil..... genuine jet turbine hammond oil..


good luck!
 
Thanks, guys!

Man, this is getting complicated.

And I don't know what model it is, I can't find it indicated anywhere on the outside, and I didn't take the back off in the store.

After looking at a lot of pictures online, the closest I've seen to it is either an M2 or an M3.

I don't know why I'm even considering this. The last thing I need right now is another project that I will have neither the time nor money to finish, and it will just sit around taking up storage space that I don't have because I can't afford to pay to have someone move it back to Goodwill. Even if I get it working, I probably won't be able to get a sound I like out of it.
 
But it's just so cool looking. It's inspiring. If I ever get my music room/studio put together, it will lend a vibe that can't be created any other way. And it's not like I'm ever going to be able to afford a B3.
 
TAE said:
..when unbolted the tone generator floats..when bolted down the tone generator is stationary
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Not all the Hammond models have the Tone Generator locking bolts or a "floating design", the AFA I know, or require locking of the Tone Generator when moving...you just have to be gentle.
I'm not sure all the ones that do or don't, so you have to check whatever model you have to see if they are there.

I've not seen any on my L100, nor are they mentioned anywhere in the servicr manual....but next time I oil it, I'll take a closer look just to be 100% sure.

notCardio said:
But it's just so cool looking.
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I love my L100.
It's not one of the most sought-after Hammonds, but I can get some nice tones out of it, and I've used it on quite a few song recordings. It can really fill out a track without a lot of work.
I've been wanting to add a Leslie cab to it, but I would only want one with both horn and rotor....but they're not cheap, not easy to find somewhat locally, and in full operating condition with all the needed hook-ups and extras.
I keep looking.....
 
So, if it's bone dry and has been for years, do I risk doing damage to it if I try to fire it up without oiling it first?
 
I guess you have no choice but to give the power a quick flip and see if the generator spins. You could oil it up/clean it up and all that...and then try, but if you need to do it before buying it, you don't have that option...so just flip it on and see.

You'll hear it spin up and then run with a kind of gentle murmur if all is well ....though you might want to open the back and look at the motor/generator as you power up....so you can shut it off quick if needed.
 
miroslav said:
Not all the Hammond models have the Tone Generator locking bolts or a "floating design".
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If you want the Hammond sound it has to have a tone generator...I know of no hammonds with tone generators that don't float..as far as I know and remember they all have to be bolted down... I delivered hammonds up until 1971 they quit making them ( tone generator versions in 1975) from then on it was no bueno.

Miroslav just look underneath the wood directly below the tone generator there should be 4 nuts / bolts..You don't really need to unbolt them but they make more noise vibration...the floating allows them to run more quietly.

If it ain't a tone wheel generated hammond organ you don't want it...

If it only has one switch to turn it on ( no starter ) you're wasting your time.
 
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