acoustic screens

  • Thread starter Thread starter guy
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guy

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Hi,
I'm planning to build acoustic screens to be able to change my studios live room chracter from deader to lifer and to block some spill between players playing together in the room.
My design is for a screen ca. 1.90m high and 1.20 wide wood frame (or mdf, what do you think?) I'll make 4 of these and 2 more with the size 1.20hX1.40w.
the screen will be build like this that one side will be hard wood (I'm even thinking about puting hard "skyline" defusers on 2 of the big screens) and on the other side will be a fram that will contain absorbing materialls and cover with fabrik.
what kind of absorbing material should I use (fiberglass?which kind? rock wool? how thick?)? what kind of fabrik? how low would this design be effective to?
the screens will be mounted on small wheels so i can move them around the studio.
I'll be happy if you can give me some morefeedback and info conserning material and building the screens.
I'll post pictures when they will be finished.
thanx
guy
 
Hi, I have the same questions than guy, but the link that is given here doesn't really help any more, so I want to re-open the thread.

I wonder (some newbie questions):

- Is mineral wool the same as rockwool?
- what to put over the rockwool.. foam?
- What treatment needs the reflecitve side?

thx for all help

Brett
 
Mineral wool and Rockwool are the same. Rockwool is a brand name.

Put cloth over the Rockwool. You can also put painter's plastic (the really lightweight stuff) over the insulation before you put the cloth cover on. that will diffuse the highs a bit, and ecapsulate the Rockwool.

You can use the reflective side for times when you want to bounce the source off something hard. In the 50's the jazz guys in NYC would bounce horns off hard surfaces for different effects.

You might also look into building slot resonator panels. They extend the low-end abilities of the insulation, and provide diffusion as well. If you use slot resonators, you can make the reflective side out of 1/4" or 3/8" plywood, because you want that surface to act as a "spring" behind the resonator and the insulation. Also, you can tune your slots. Best is to figure a layout that gives you a broadband response over at least a full octave.

So for example: 110-220Hz, 250-500Hz, etc.
 
thanks for the advice.

Maybe I'll post some pics when I have my first results.
 
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