A question for Ethan? Corner Bass traps

RichHead

New member
Ethan, in this writeup you did on acoustic treatment (http://www.recording.org/users/acoustics/), you talk a bit about corner traps for po' folk like me. Unfortunately, I am going to have to stick with my wall/ceiling corners for bass traps (thanks for this info btw, I am trying to incoporate your know-how as much as possible). Anyhow, in the drawing you have a peice of 705 fastened to the corner (I assume using the screw and fender washer), but you didn't mention any kind of cover on it. Could you simply attach the fiberglass as you say, cover it in cloth, and it still be as effective? Thanks in advance.....

Or does anybody know?
 
Ethan seems to be spread pretty thin these days (wonder when he sleeps :=) but I'll see if I can clarify a bit -

First, the way bass traps work is that they present an "acoustic resistance" to sound waves. This is the function of the rigid fiberglas inulation board. Moving air (sound wave) can't get thru the insulation board as easily as it can move in free air, so the energy it uses to pass thru is partially converted to heat. Less sound energy, less sound.

Every sound has its own wavelength, which is expressed in (normally) either feet or meters; in feet, the formula is Wavelength=1130/f, with 1130 being the speed of sound in feet per second (approximate) at sea level, and f being the frequency in Hertz.

A wall, floor or ceiling is referred to as a "boundary" in acoustics - if we consider these boundaries to be impenetrable for sake of discussion, then at any boundary the air velocity from a sound wave striking it perpendicularly, will be ZERO, while its sound PRESSURE will be maximum.

If you move away from the wall a distance of 1/4 wavelength of the sound (just one frequency for this example) at that point, the sound VELOCITY will be maximum, and the sound PRESSURE will be zero. This is important, because

The only place it does any good to place an acoustic resistance in order to trap sound, is where there is air movement, or velocity. The more velocity, the more sound energy is converted to heat.

This is why absorbent traps need air space behind them - the more distance included in the trap cavity, with all other things equal, the lower frequency the trap will attenuate. The closer to 1/4 wavelength the absorbent is placed from the boundary, the better that frequency is absorbed.

Using the wavelength formula, if we plug in 100 hZ we find that the wavelength is 11.3 FEET ?!?!! sooo, 1/4 wavelength would be 2.825 feet, or nearly 34 inches. That would be the optimum depth of a trap that would work at 100 hZ - just one example, so you can see some of the problems of making low bass traps.

One of the benefits of a corner trap is that the depth is varied, so the trap works at a broader range of frequencies.

Keeping in mind that in order for the trap to work, the sound wave must pass THROUGH it, not AROUND it, then it makes sense that one important criteria is that the absorbent material is SEALED around the edges so the sound must pass THROUGH it.

The frame is mainly there to support the absorbent, and give you a place to tack a cloth cover, and for looks. The important part is the type and thickness of absorbent, the depth of the cavity behind the absorbent, the thoroughness of seal,and somewhat the angle of incidence that the sound strikes the absorbent. Perpendicular gives more absorbency than a glancing blow, for example.

Most if not all this information can be found in F. Alton Everest's Master Handbook of Acoustics, available at Amazon.com for about $25. Well worth the $, if you want even more detail... Steve
 
Ethan's the man over at recording.org....


Here, he still has to compete with Mr. Sayers for space to express his genius


ETHAN, COME BACK :)
 
In that article, when it talks about placing the 705 across the corner, it doesn't show it being sealed in any way. How would one accomplish that? In the drawing it looks like there are 2 pieces of 1"x2" or similar that the fiberglass is attached to. Do you have to make some sort of top and bottom "CAP"?
 
Rich,

> you have a peice of 705 fastened to the corner ... but you didn't mention any kind of cover on it. <

Yes, cloth is all you need.

Thanks to Steve and everyone else for chiming in. I still visit here daily, but as Steve mentioned I'm really busy these days and I can't comment on every issue raised.

--Ethan
 
Thanks Ethan. Thanks for taking the time for somebody you don't even know.

Hawg - On some of mine I have to build caps, I don't have a choice. I'm guessing its best to seal from the inside with caulk like the other boxes....then hang them up. Hawg, I wonder if the caps should be 705 too, or just a solid cap made out of wood? I'm guessing wood to be better....just a guess though
 
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