9 to 10 gauge change - Opinions wanted

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aaroncomp said:
I'll be getting the intonation on my electric (Gibson LP Studio Lite) adjusted soon and had a quick question. I've always used 9s, but I'm interested in getting 10s. I play mainly rock - metal, classic, alternative, etc. - rhythm, plus alot of solo stuff (not a speed sweeper yet, but getting there :D ). Currently, I'm more focused on recording material, rather than live use. So, who thinks 10s would be a good choice? Anyone gone down this road before and regreted it? Loved it? Did it slow you down much? Let me hear you. Another thing; I've always used Ernie Ball super slinkies (the pink pack) - any strings that would be dramatically different than these anyone would highly recommend? Thanks in advance. :)
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The more metal you wave around over a pickup, the more response it gives. You will hear a marked increase in volume and improvement in tone when you switch from a 9 top to a 10 top. I changed from a 10 to 11 top and saw the same thing, and I never went back.

Some guys I know use a 12 or 13 top in rehearsal, and then switch to a 10 or 11 in performance. They say it's for training. I never did that, so I can't really testify.
 
Ever try the Zach Wylde strings??

Heaviest friggin strings I ever tried.. Even cracked the nut on my home-built Les Paul.. Basically they were the thickness of suspension cables that support bridges.. I found them useless..
 
I use 12's with a wound G on all my electrics. I played acoustic for so many years, that I bend the hell out of anything lighter just fretting. Plus, my Gretsch just won't sing with anything lighter.
 
10s? Try 11s - one of the real advantages of 11s over 10s (or 10s over 9s if we must talk about it) is that doing a big bend (talking 5 half tones) is really hard and hurts like hell, so when you achieve it you are automatically at the same time in the classic lead guitar pose with an agonisingly painful grimace on your face and blood dripping from your fingers. You will look like the real deal even if you are otherwise a sensitive book-reading cheese-eating interior decorating type.

Chick dig it...
 
Arm; You're a sick dog LOL!
10's all the way! I will try the 10's with with the lighter bottom strings suggestion though. I was unaware that they made those.
 
I have been using 11s for almost a year now, still haven't broken a string, and can bend the heck out of them. I'd bet I'm the only one who has heavier strings on their electric than on their acoustic, not counting people who detune electrics like crazy.
 
I played on 9-42 sets for years then discovered that I was bending too much, a switch to 10-48 has greatly improved this and they are not a lot harder to play, in fact after over a year of heavier strings I don't think I'll ever go back to lighter strings. Also the increase in sustain amazed me, I thought I needed hotter pickups.
 
From 9's I went to 10's with a wound 3rd simply because of tuning problems, ended up being more comfortable.
 
I dont think I could use 9 or even 10s anymore. I love 11s but the 6,5,4 strings are too thick.

what I think would be best would be to use 12, or 13s series for the 1,2,3 strings then use regular guage for the heavy strings
 
Tens

10's in my youth (60's and 70's there were no 9's whaddya talkinbout) as they were the light strings. Anyone ever try flatwounds. I thought they were cool for a few years in the 70's. Gibson flatwounds, noiseless strings. But mostly a set I still remember were called 340L's I have no idea if the numbers meant anything. In my old age I went to 9's for a decade or so, thinking I was doing my hands a favor, but as someone else stated, strings should match the guitar. Gibby's seem to sound better with 10's, while a strat or tele will do OK with 9's. As I tend to buy very large amounts of sets when I finally get around to it, (OK when the IGBW buys them for me) I'll order all light guage 10 type sets, with extra high strings as I play coated strings and the unwound's (SUPRISE) in those sets aren't coated at all, another myth shot to hell. SO I get bulk buys of prob 10's, 13's, and maybe 18 for the G. If someone makes a lightweight "wound" G, my old 340L's had that feature, and I'm waxing nostalgic, but I like the ring of a wound string better than a plain one every time. I'll go as high as 20, who makes one?
 
Great. Thanks for all of the great info/experience - looks like 10s it is!

Now another thing I've been considering is retrofitting this same guitar to the Buzz Feiten tuning system. Anyone here with any experience using an axe with this. All hype or the real deal?
 
aaroncomp said:
Great. Thanks for all of the great info/experience - looks like 10s it is!

Now another thing I've been considering is retrofitting this same guitar to the Buzz Feiten tuning system. Anyone here with any experience using an axe with this. All hype or the real deal?
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Do a search, there are threads here on Feiten.

Also a bit of light gauge history:

http://www.ernieball.com/mmonline/history/
 
keep on moving up to heavier strings. put the 10s on now, in a couple of months go up to 11s. the heavier the gauge of string you get, the deeper and more resonant your tone will be. i like ernie ball slinkies myself.
 
i played with DR 13s for years, but i had little technique/style. now i'm finding that i like a custom mix, which means that unless i want to pay between 6 and 10 bucks a set, i have to go with bulk strings from some corporate megalopoly. i do the same on acoustic and electric, though i will run them a little lighter on electric. i've generally found that 9's feel like i'm playing spaghetti, but a mixed set with a high e of .10 is pretty nice to play on either acoustic or electric. so it's a cross of sound and playability for me that i am still cultivating.
 
I use the 9 to 46. They are the 9's on the high strings and the tens on the heavier strings. I use the dean markley(Custom Lights) They seem pretty good. Haven't heard anyone here use them though.
 
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