705 or 703

  • Thread starter Thread starter mixmkr
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mixmkr

mixmkr

we don't need rest!!
Ok...after reading about this stuff for years now and finally deciding to plaster this crap on my walls to see what the fuss is all about (not to mention, my mixes could improve a lot!), wonder which is best.

$$ is not a barrier.

Looking to treat a typical 14 x 17 paneled room (with A LOT of equipment in it and a couch at the back wall....), with hardwood floors and 8' ceiling with acoustic tile.

4" in all corners, some in the ceiling to wall corners behind the mix and rear maybe... a couple more 4" panels along the long walls.

that ought to do it, right? Do I need to get more scientific than that and 703 or 705 or combinations??

thx in advance.

http://www.atsacoustics.com seems a source and I am tired of reading Ethan's and Sayers site over and over again.
 
I think the ATS panels are not rigid fiberglass, they are mineral wool. Also, they have closed backs, which won't allow for a gap between the panel and the wall for more effective treatment of bass frequencies. I had quite a number of these in my old studio and replaced them when we built the new one.

In my opinion, a good low-cost alternative to Winer's excellent Real Traps are Ready Traps. I use a lot of them in our studio and I wrote a short review of them here:

https://homerecording.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=260402

They aren't the same product and I don't mean to imply that one is superior to the other. You decide, YMMV.
 
I wasn't going to buy the ATS finished products, or anyone else's for the matter. Not that $$ is the defining factor, but I was going to build them myself, and a place like ATS sells the insulation...several different kinds, actually.

Thanks for the reply, and I'll check the link.
 
btw, your studio looks very nice. Great job and looks very inviting to get some good tracks down and mixed. :)
 
and the 703 initially smells. hhhmmmm... that may a hard one to get by the wife.
 
You won't notice the smell after install and covering them. But when you open a bale of the stuff it smells like insulation.

If you follow Sayer's examples you can't go wrong. The applications you describe should make a marked difference if your room is entirely untreated.

You might look at some rugs as well, maybe one large and/or a couple runners.
 
Hello mixmkr. I have a suggestion for you. There is a equivilent substitute for
Owens Corning 703, as it can be difficult to find 703 in thicker panels such as 3" and 4"(for bass traps). I purchased Knauf 3" and 4" thick panels in FOUR BY TEN FEET panels, from Paragon Pacific, which is a subsidiary of SPI I believe.
http://www.knaufusa.com/products/co...ndling_insulation/knauf_insulation_board.aspx


Excellent absorption coefficients. Here is an SPI location in Kentucky
http://www.reedconstructiondata.com/companies/86289/

Specialty Products & Insulation Co
2512C Palumbo Dr
Lexington, KY 40509
Phone: (859) 269-6668
Toll Free: (800) 999-2531
Fax: (859) 269-9644



I paid $600 for (4) 4"x4'x10' panels and (2) 3"x4'x10' panels. Thats a LOT of fiberglass compared to Owens Corning I belive. Plus, you can cut it to the sizes you need, which in my case was a very unusual arrangement of panels.
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Here is the cut panels in a scaled model mockup. I used 1/2" thick cieling panel fiberglass for the model. Haven't finished the real deal yet, but this will illustrate my point.
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This is what its supposed to look like when finished. Not your typical 2'x4' Owens Corning panels.
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Thats the point of buying 4'x10' panels.

You can cut this stuff real easy with an electric knife, or table saw, or any sharp blade. I found an electric knife at a thrift store for a buck:D Jigged the electric knife like a sabersaw upside down in a table, or use it by hand.



fitZ:)
 
Great reply, and I have to mention, I've seen your truckload and control room pics on the other threads....I'm a lurker!!

Excellent suggestions.

However is there a problem stacking two pieces of 2" thick pieces of 703 together to make 4" thickness? I can't for the life of me think there would be any sacrifices.

I'm pretty handy making things, have a nice shop and don't mind paying a little extra to have the stuff shipped directly to me. Finding the stuff online seems pretty easy. Lexington is a round trip 6 hour drive for me, even though I've got a nice trailer, etc. I've looked at the Knauff products as well as Roxul, etc. I'm not married to any particular brand, as they do all seem similar.

I'll be eager to see some of your finished products. I'll post some here as well, as I know it makes for fun reading for others.

I'm just coming from a old school background that I never saw this stuff mounted in studios back when. A LOT of gobos, but that was about it. Rather, it was just good stuidio design it seemed. Now recently, I have seen this A LOT in churches, and places like that, mounted around on the walls and in nice performance centers too. Wonder if they're using the same type of materials when you see "clouds" in college recital rooms.

I do plan on making these "nice looking" as done correctly, I have to say can add quite a bit to the overall look and feel of a studio...to the good, for sure. I think that's why people plaster this wedge foam all over the place... the studio aestetics, so to speak. Yours when done, will definately be in this "easy on the eyes" catagory.

thanks for the help, much appreciated.
 
Most big-time studios have this stuff integrated into the construction rather than mount it on a finished wall/ceiling. It's there, though, along with fancier sorts of treatment.
 
Most big-time studios have this stuff integrated into the construction rather than mount it on a finished wall/ceiling.
Click to expand...
I beg your pardon. Just HOW would they do that and keep the interior TL evelope penetration free Supercreep? What may appear to be integrated into the construction is actually Contermporary design schemes that make the absorption/diffusion fixturing APPEAR to be a boundary. In reality, they ARE mounted and or decoupled from the actual TL boundarys...at least from what I've seen. However, these fixture units take up space and must be planned from the outset to allow for finished square footage to the face of the fixtures.
 
whoa!! I think I just found a great deal. My local lumber company can get me 1" 4x8 sheets of OC 703 for $8.96 each. They said their distributors have a bunch they are trying to get rid of.

I figure since this in going in a "frame" I can spray glue it together if nec, or it will just be fine in the frame. This way I can make whatever shape and thickness needed.

And.... it will be in tomorrow. Projects for the rest of the holidays!
 
So...
has anyone ever used any speaker grill cloth for covering?

Not to use for all of them, but I thought something like some Fender grillcloth, and maybe even their little logo plate would look "different" on some absorbers hanging on the wall. Kinda like a bunch of dual showman cabinets!


maybe get some Marshall basketweave grillcloth.... hhhhmmm
 
That sounds like a great deal on the 703. I'd snap that up. It's fine to stack multiple layers to get the thickness you need.

You can certainly use grille cloth. If you want something a little beefier behind it, try muslin fabric from Hancocks or JoAnn's or whatever your local fabric store is. Muslin is very inexpensive and works great in this application.

Bryan
 
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