Search results

I've never seen that, but I guess it's possible. All I've ever seen have been loosely braided uninsulated wires. For the flexibility, yes, not for any electrical reason.

Push the card back onto the rivet. Put a dab of JB Weld on the head of the rivet and on the card surrounding it. Place the speaker in such a way that the card is flat so that the stuff doesn't run, and let it set. If you use JB Quick (quick setting JB Weld), you can be playing again in an hour...

It looks to me like the two flexible wires (tensor wires?) that run from the card to the voice coil were touching each other when the speaker cone moved. They are not (cannot be) insulated. Either single wire touching the speaker frame wouldn't cause a problem because the speaker frame is...

Sorry, that's just not universally (or even mostly) true. Many speakers that can handle high power levels are also very efficient. I have a 6 watt Supro amp that sounds great through my 200 watt Marshall cab.

Actually, that sounds like a pretty complex waveform... :eek:

In your defense, what he told you would work, though at best it's a temporary measure and not what I would recommend as a permanent solution. I still maintain that it's not something that would make any difference in the value of the amp, and it would be much safer. But anyway, last night on...

Putting a humbucker on a Strat is tantamount to heresy, IMO. :D

And then she made your life a living, hell, right? :D

Th OP is long gone. We gave him good advice along with a little good-natured ribbing. He took offense, vented a bit of spleen, and left the building.

That's my take, too. The internet is not for the thin of skin. :D

What the hell are you talking about? You came up with a Rube Goldberg approach to a potentially dangerous grounding problem. We told you how to fix it right. It's free advice and worth every penny you paid for it; take it or leave it, I don't give a flying F. The "nugget of golden truth" is...

In the first place, all original or not, that amp isn't worth all that much, and in the second place, a grounded plug conversion is easily reversible. Ground it and hum no more. :D

Well, the third prongs are still connected to each other through the power strip even though they are separated from ground, so the loop is still there. Are you sure you have nothing else interconnected with cables that is grounded? No, it is not that simple; the articles on grounding in the...

Yes, sort of, but why not spend a few minutes and a few bucks and convert to a grounded plug?

What you have is a ground loop and the lights confirm it. The power strip is "seeing" ground through the shield of the connected components. Ground loops can be a real problem; they occur when a piece of gear has two connections to ground with different impedances. The third prong of a...

The first thing I'd do is run an extension cord from the "clean" circuit into the room where you have the problem and see if it still makes a difference. It may have more to do with the level of RF in the room than with the circuit you are plugged into. This business about "clean" and "dirty"...

With preamp tubes, just swap them; preamp tubes don't have a bias. For power tubes, it depends.

300W is a good size, IMO. I use my 300W 2-10 Ashdown (http://bass-guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/Ashdown-MAG-C210T300-EVO-II-Bass-Combo-Amp?sku=485033 - I found a "blemished" one for about $450) combo for everything from back porch "acoustic" jams on up. I have a 1-15 extension cab that...

You are just starting out on electric guitar and you are already worried about how you are going to fill large venues? Well, you are certainly optimistic, I'll give you that. :D

You are right - $1250 is way expensive. Ashdown makes some nice combo amps for a third that price. I gig with a 300W Ashdown 2X10 combo (with a 1X15 extension cab for not-so-tiny stages) that serves me very well.