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drum riser - just make it out of an 1" of heavy carpet padding (or 2" 3pcf rigid insulation) on the floor, 3" of MDF, and topped with 1 layer of 29/32 plywood. glue and screw MDF together, screw on ply - so you can replace it over time. nice mass and won't act as a bass trap to kill your kick...

like i said - priorities - if the hobby shop is important, then treat as you can to get the best possible balance. if the space needs to be the best it can be for acoustic reasons, then i think you need to tear out the cabinets etc to get the space to be as large as possible, then treat to get...

i guess its a matter of priorities. if you want good acoustics in the space, then make the room good acoustically - reconfigure it, build up the treatments as necessary to get a good mix position and good live acoustics, OR, keep it as a shop and live with the results as-is with some basic...

you mean placing them on approx a 6' per-leg triangle? (spreading them 9' apart is probably not a good idea) are they baffle mounted or free standing? is the room full treated or not? what type of equipment is feeding the signal to the speakers? a few of studios i've designed over the past 3...

generally speaking, its done with a lot of expense to create a detailed design and to build the HVAC system - it has to move enough (fresh) air to keep the temperature and humidity nearly constant without transmitting sound between rooms, conducting vibrations, or producing noise (or even air...

if the long portion is side to side, that actually might help a bit because of being trapped between windows. definitely add enough absorption overhead and the rear wall to deal with reflections. the slant doesn't help much in terms of reflection control when top to bottom but would help a bit...

FitZ - tried to register but it returned me to the are you 13 and older page... fwiw, i've worked around various bits of the US Army and government agencies so none of this surprises me... people assume Hollywood is advanced in their portrayal of insidious government actions but are really way...

ah, i was going by the original drawing showing 17' across...

sure. this way you have easy access to plumbing, plus in the CR you can escape without going through the live room...

it's my patented FitZ Mind Reader® product that allows me (and others) to peer into your thoughts and write them down before you do... you're getting sleepy, very sleepy... ;) on the room subject - you could build a two dividing walls floor-to-ceiling and then have the tall ceiling for the live...

what is the ceiling height of the space?

absolutely. one part of creating a RFZ is to use angled walls to avoid a purely absorptive solution (such as a LEDE). and in cases where conserving floor space is important (or more important than other choices) then using splayed boundary walls can work quite well.

Rick has it right - splayed walls typically make it much harder to compute modes and standing waves, and it can also impact the resale of your home (if you're building a studio in your home) because of the odd shaped rooms. from a designer (mine) perspective, you choose angled walls when you...

i'd split it up into 3 rectangular rooms. make the CR capable of becoming a "home theater", the vox booth as a "wine cellar", the live room as a "very nice sounding living room" ;-)

you need space for trapping. and broadband needs variations. by building rectangular walls, you can easily calculate the expected modes and MSM characteristics, and then build out treatments on angles to break up the space and get that 1-2.5' (0.3m-0.75m) deep traps and slats, diffusors, etc...

you're right! i made it 11m x 7.5m :-( dyslexia kicking in...

here's one idea. i'd make the ceilings 4m high.

turn the desk to face the wall to the left of the desk - you will then have a view into either room and be pointing down the long portion of the room. if necessary, have the windows angled front to back to get reflections past you. if not an option, put up heavy drapes you can close over each...

i think the existing 2x6 might be on the margin for supporting the new weight. one thought - build the new inner walls about 2" lower than the joists and rest a new set of 2x10 joists in-between them (say 26"oc) on the inner walls, and build your inner ceiling on that. since its a square room...

i would probably use large slider doors between the rooms to enable you to open it up, this way you could rehearse with people in both rooms and potentially record that way whenever you didn't need full isolation.