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Actually I would go with interlocking rubber floring in the garage. More suitableto the location. A bale or two of 703 insulation spread around should be enough to tame the echoes in the garage.

I would stick with my recommendation for two layers of gypsum board on the ceiling and add a recommendation of adding somw unfaced pink fluffy insulation between the joists so that you have a mass-cushion-mass arrangement. I would also recommend making no penetrations in the ceiling. In other...

Maybe the cable, maybe the amp connector, but it definitly is a ground problem because you are creating an alternate ground route when you touch the input jack on your keyboard.

The MSH line is a good choice for your instrumentals but you might look toward something with a larger diameter for your vocals as your get further along. Your choice for an interface for your 'lab top' will depend on the number of tracks you are thinking of recording at the same time. The...

Yeah I know a lot of places use halogens, but honestly they give off a lot of heat and aren't energy efficient. Fluorescents used to be off limits because of transformer hum but Compact Fluorescents do not have that problem.

I would get a kickball, a SM57 for the Snare and a pair of MSH=1c's for the overhead. In particular the SM57 and the MSH's will be usefull on other instruments.

If your room sound isn't all that good I would suggest the C rather than the O.

It would probably sound fine. Rode already made a microphone called the Broadcaster and this looks like it was based on it. It is an end-addressed LDC so you would use it in other situations where you would use a LDC. As far as USB mics being a great idea i'm not so sure. You really are...

Here is the answer to your question about frequencies. Fortunately a saxaphone is not as much trouble to isolate as drums. Since you are already planning and bought lumber for a single rather than double stud wall what I would suggest is to go with two layers of gypsum board on the inside on...

You might also look at the stuff they sell as playground matting. I believe that is even thicker. Frankly the stuff should should be a reasonably priced alternative.

I don't have a big mic locker (I just do voiceovers and radio production) but my usual starting point isn't the voice, it is the quality of the end product that I am looking for. Do I want a ton of proximity effect, a smooth classic sound, really precise detail, and so forth.

Was it dark brown fiberous stuff? I see that at my home depot too. It is called soundboard and it is mostly usefull to go under floors in order to keeps footsteps from transmitting to the floor below. For walls you are likely to do better for the same money by adding another layer of gypsum...

You could just hang the absorber in front of the window period. Of course drapes aren't exactly as good as fiberglass absorbers, otherwise we would be hanging drapes all over the place instead of spending money on absorbers. But they are good enough to deaden the first reflection point...

Also most 'duct board' is faced.

Please don't feed the trolls

For the first reflection point next to the window if you don't want to lose the window try adding some heavy drapes that you can close while listening and recording.

Here's a clue. If maximum tube was always good they wouldn't have included a knob.

The B2 is a multipattern mic so the question about bleed has everything to do about what pattern you use. Your least bleed would come from using the cardiod pattern and point it directly away from the one source and directly toward the other. But the fact is I am guessing that in the kind of...

T-Bone is a rebrander of Chinese made microphones. That does not make them evil, nor does it necessarily make their microphones bad. It does mean that just because one model is good that the other models are good because they may be coming from entirely different manufacturers. If you look...

Ah, that explains a lot. I was wondering about heat issues on a completely sealed enclosure.