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I used to tech for a guy who had a couple of Dake's guitars--they are excellent. The most I've spent on ANY guitar was $400.00 for a mint '65 Strat in 1977--played it for a couple years and sold it. The way I play and sweat it would've started looking like Rory's guitar before too long, and it...

Not just free, either. The spherical casters are much more sidewalk friendly than the old style flat casters. I found out the hard way--I had a VT-22 with the old style casters. Most of the time, you can pop the casters out with a small flat screwdriver or the screwdriver blade on a pocketknife.

That should be fixable, can't tell you much more than that because I've never done that repair on an Ovation. On a normal acoustic, I'd pull the binding on that side, clean the old glue from the seam, glue and reinforce the top cracks then glue it back to the body. The main problem would be if...

That looks nice, I haven't got to check out any GFS stuff locally, but it took until last year for Agiles and SX's to start turning up around here.

I have a TransTube Bandit 112 for my "big" amp--what I'd take if I were getting paid. I also like my Fender Sidekick 25 and Rocktron R50C (my Curbside Upgrade Jazz/Chorus). I also have a few tube amps, but they'd need some work to be gig-worthy.

Try a full size, thick wall glass slide. The truth is, any acoustic with slide is gonna have some noise--even Tampa Red couldn't get around it.

If 2 10's can fit the baffle board, fine. My concern is will there be enough wood left to hold the weight of the EV's--a pair of Jensens or similar would be fine, though.

Sometimes you have to pick your battles. I don't touch up anything other than the neck, especially if it's my own instrument. If somebody's paying me, I can go for the full treatment. Your best bet is auto touch-up paint, your best chance for getting a good match.

There's also the "flipper" factor--the guy may have had no more interest in the guitar except as a commodity to make money on. A cheap MIA would be easy to hype and sell to some headstock snob to make a couple hundred bucks.

That looks so far outside anything I've seen from Gretsch that I think somebody pulled the old flea market trick of cutting the logo out of a magazine and gluing it to the headstock (don't laugh, I've seen more than a few bolt neck LP copies get the "Gibson" treatment). And it's fugly.

It'd be a lot easier to fit a shorter bridge than do a neck reset, especially if you don't have the tools, clamps, etc.....

I've had both the Bandit 65 and the Transtube 112, and I like the Transtube much better--an FX loop on each channel, plus a footswitchable global loop is pretty good, reminds me of the Sunn Beta Lead I used to use, now all I need is two R2R's for Frippertronics. EQ is also much better, the lead...

Paying $300.00 for a Bandit would be painful, especially since I only paid $50.00 for mine. Have at it dude!!!

I live in an area with little access to musical equipment, let alone recording mics. A friend owns a small store and got a C-1 by accident in a shipment of other stuff, I was lucky to get there before he sent it back and snagged it. I haven't modded it yet, but my curiosity couldn't resist...

If you look at the output jack, there's a black collar around it. The collar has two notches cut into it that you can unscrew with a medium size pair of needle nose pliers. Once you have the ring off, the main part of the mic body slides off and there's your circuit board. I haven't tried to...

I got one of these at the Goodwill for $8.00, but it pretty well sucks. The company that distributes these gave a lot of people the runaround when the first issue were noisy and didn't work very well. They did finally correct the problem, but then wanted to make people jump through hoops to...

I have Beri C1 and C3 mics which work OK , at least they don't have the harsh high end a lot of Chinese mics have. Also, I live out in the sticks and these were the only condensers I could get which didn't cost over $200.00 or involve a trip to Pittsburgh. Plus, the C1 looks like a prime guinea...

I got some Allparts 5/8" diameter strap buttons and put them on most of my guitars. They were about .50 cents each and work well, unless your choosen strap is totally worn out.

I've had several resonator guitars, and they seem to be constructed to project to the front, so getting a few feet of distance might be the first thing to try. Sort of like how some bass cabs don't really sound right when you're right in front of them.

The bridge saddles don't look right, which can happen with some Fenders. I found that out trying to put DiMarzio Brass Strat saddles on a Tele Deluxe, the Tele saddles were narrow enough that I couldn't even get the B and E saddles to thread up.