Is Tuning my guitar up to Ab Db Gb B Eb Ab Gonna Break My Strings?

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High A is about as high as I've heard of anyone tuning on 25.5." So, you can probably do it, but there are a LOT of things to consider.

For one, you're going to need much lighter strings. I think D'Addario still makes sets of 7s, so go see if you can order those. This is less for the bass strings (though, tuning them up will put a ton of tension on the neck and make it very hard to bend) as it is for the treble strings, which under that kind of tension you'll be popping 9's like it's going out of style.

Also, you might want to look into special strings. Google Gary Goodman - he's an extended range bassist (ish) who plays something like a 12 or a 14 string, and ended up having strings made up out of a special alloy such that he could make a thinner, less prone to breakage string specifically for tuning to high A. He's an, um, opinionated cat, but he does sell these strings off his website (I believe), once you convince him you're not a potential rival who wants one to analyze and recreate yourself.

Here's the site: http://www.octave4plus.com/

Finally, if you're looking to tune up that far... Have you considered a seven string? A seven would allow you to have six strings tuned like a normal guitar but up to Ab, but still leave you a lower string in Eb to cover the normal range of a guitar as well as those higher notes you're after. Chording is a little different on the low strings (basically, the intervals (and in turn chord shapes) don't carry over exactly - remember that there's a major third between the G and B in standard tuning, so if you try to transpose chord shapes down to that lower string, there's a fourth where a major third normally is, and then a major third above that where you normally find a fourth. As long as you play on the lowest four strings though shapes carry over, and there are other chord forms you can use - I'd be happy to help you if you go this road), but basically it gives you the extended range you're looking for without losing all of the low end.
 
that's not correct.

They may look large to you compared to a guitar string but by piano terms they're light.

Yes...it's heavier than a guitar high E...and yet, CAN be tightend up pretty high without breaking.

I'll have to break a 10 gauge high E tonight JUST to see how high I can tighten it! :)
And then I'll try the same with an 08 gauge (if I even have anything that light :eek: ).
:D

I've gone way beyond the high E occasionally when changing strings and just winding them up tight by feel...
...and the 10s never broke.
I dunno...maybe I didn't hit the high Ab.....?

One thing though...tuned up that high, they will probably feel like rocks....try some bends, it will be good for the calluses!!! :p
 
Yes...it's heavier than a guitar high E...and yet, CAN be tightend up pretty high without breaking.

I'll have to break a 10 gauge high E tonight JUST to see how high I can tighten it! :)
And then I'll try the same with an 08 gauge (if I even have anything that light :eek: ).
:D

I've gone way beyond the high E occasionally when changing strings and just winding them up tight by feel...
...and the 10s never broke.
I dunno...maybe I didn't hit the high Ab.....?

One thing though...tuned up that high, they will probably feel like rocks....try some bends, it will be good for the calluses!!! :p

The other thing you have to remember is the additional stress you are placing on the guitars neck, body joint and bridge. I all likelihood the last two would be OK but the neck relief will definitely have increased with potentially problematic results.

The correct way to go about this would be to start with a given string length then asses what stress it is under from the current set of strings. Having done that use the string gauge calculator I linked to to calculate the string gauges required to achieve the pitch you want for each string. That will get you in the ball park and avoid damaging the guitar or needing to do any remedial set up.

It's also the way instrument design has always been done. You start with a string length and a given pitch and go from there.
 
Yes...it's heavier than a guitar high E...and yet, CAN be tightend up pretty high without breaking.
Pretty poor logic man, you're ignoring the fact that on a piano those highest strings are only a couple of inches long ..... that's why they get high ...... means exactly nothing as far as guitar goes.

It's the same thing as if you fret your guitar around the bridge pickup if you could ...... yeah, that's pretty high even on a larger string but it's because the thing's only got a few inches of speaking length.

It doesn't mean the laws of physics have suddenly been repealed and now heavier strings can go higher than thinner strings. It's simply not true in any fashion whatsoever.

Now, that doesn't mean I'm saying a .10 will break if you try to tune it up to Ab ..... I don't know. But if it does break, then a heavier string will break even sooner.
Plus it's a dumb idea when you can get the same thing out of a capo.
 
What about Nashville tuning????

Why not use the doubled strings from a 12-string set???
 
Now, that doesn't mean I'm saying a .10 will break if you try to tune it up to Ab ..... I don't know. But if it does break, then a heavier string will break even sooner.
Plus it's a dumb idea when you can get the same thing out of a capo.


This is the main point here...that a 10 will probably not break going up just a couple of steps.
The lighter VS heavier is a side issue...though you are right, lighter would be more correct rather than heavier for having less tension on the neck...
...I'm only making the point that just cause it's a heavier string (like on a piano) it doesn't mean it will break with a little extra tension on it as it is also stronger than a lighter gauge string would be.

AFA the capo...yeah, that’s the quick/simple solution... :) ....but maybe he doesn't want to play in that position on the neck. ;)
 
The other thing you have to remember is the additional stress you are placing on the guitars neck, body joint and bridge. I all likelihood the last two would be OK but the neck relief will definitely have increased with potentially problematic results.

If you go way back to the top of the thread...I mentioned checking the neck and adjusting the truss rod to compensate for the extra pull. :)
 
This is the main point here...that a 10 will probably not break going up just a couple of steps.

I'm not so sure... Effectively what we're talking about is exerting the amount of pressure (in the form of tension) required to do a two full step bend. For perspective, I don't know what you string with, fret the high E on the 12th fret, and try to bend it to G#. Then, remember that this guy says he does a lot of bending in his style, so that he's probably going to want to get another step to step and a half over that - suddenly we're talking about a string that needs to be able to sustain a change in tension equivalent to bending from an E at the 12th to a B at the 19th, a full 5th. I certainly can't do that, my calluses give out before then so I have no idea if the string can even take it.
 
muttley...your constant avatar changes are making me dizzy!!! :p

Identity crisis? ;)

Or legal issues? :D

And is Drew your alter ego? :)
 
If you go way back to the top of the thread...I mentioned checking the neck and adjusting the truss rod to compensate for the extra pull. :)

I'm not talking about making adjustments. I'm talking about the vaery real possibility that you can damage the guitar.
 
Buy a Baby Taylor and back if off a half-step.

Should be about same difference.
 
I'm not talking about making adjustments. I'm talking about the vaery real possibility that you can damage the guitar.

You would know that shit better than me...but are you saying that even if the increased tension was applied in say....2-3 "steps"...and with each an adjustment was done to the truss rod to counter the increase in tension....
...that it would STILL cause permanent damage to the neck or some other part of the guitar…the tailpiece or the machine heads...???

I figured if the truss rod had the adjustment room...and was itself up to the task, which I would think it should be for a mere 2 steps up in tuning...and the other pieces should hold for that much increase in tension….that it would be safe for the guitar.

Yes...no...???

What specific concerns do you have?
 
You would know that shit better than me...but are you saying that even if the increased tension was applied in say....2-3 "steps"...and with each an adjustment was done to the truss rod to counter the increase in tension....
...that it would STILL cause permanent damage to the neck or some other part of the guitar…the tailpiece or the machine heads...???

I figured if the truss rod had the adjustment room...and was itself up to the task, which I would think it should be for a mere 2 steps up in tuning...and the other pieces should hold for that much increase in tension….that it would be safe for the guitar.

Yes...no...???

What specific concerns do you have?

I'm just saying it's possible thats all. Everything depends on each individual situation. At a rough guess and I haven't crunched the figures that sort of increase in tension would be like going from a set of 09's to 14's. Not insignificant. You may be lucky you may not. All I was saying was that you can work out the correct gauge strings easily and try them with guaranteed no problems.
 
I usually play in standard, but I kinda wanna record something different, and said, I wanna tune my strings two tones higher lmao, i dunno why, but i really want too. Im just wondering if im, gonna go through five million high E strings every hour.


You know what I think? I think you're a big pussy and you should have just done it and told us what happened before we started thinking. :cool:
 
Cranked up the high E all the way to high A...didn't break.
I could still do some small bends with it...but it's pretty tight...probably like playing with 13s.


Didn't try any other strings...wasn't about to adjust my truss rod just for a goof! :D
 
Cranked up the high E all the way to high A...didn't break.
I could still do some small bends with it...but it's pretty tight...probably like playing with 13s.


Didn't try any other strings...wasn't about to adjust my truss rod just for a goof! :D

I rest may case.;)
 
I would get the octave G string out of a 12 string set to use for the high string and then just move the standard set over a slot. The high string would just be a half step up from normal and the rest would be a half step down. But why stop there? If you went another half tone up to A D G C E A, then all your chord transpositions in playing with folks with a normal tuning would be a lot simpler. When they are playing an A chord, play an E.
 
I usually play in standard, but I kinda wanna record something different, and said, I wanna tune my strings two tones higher lmao, i dunno why, but i really want too. Im just wondering if im, gonna go through five million high E strings every hour.
Try using a capo at the 7th fret and record with varispeed. Or better still, just do what you were going to do and take the risk. Guitar strings can't cost that much ! Are you really 14 ?
 
Try using a capo at the 7th fret and record with varispeed. Or better still, just do what you were going to do and take the risk. Guitar strings can't cost that much ! Are you really 14 ?
No, but guitar repair and setups can run a little high.
 
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