Help proofing room

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Chewie

Chewie

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Greetings, this is most in the section of the forum. I hope I'm not asking stupid questions.

I have a choice of two rooms I can turn into studios.

One is a 12x12x8 feet. This room has three walls of solid concrete. It's a basement but there are other rooms next to it which people rent. The forth wall is wooden with the door. There are plans to remove that wall and put another. From my reading it seems that the double stud construction is a good plan. But the door has to go in it and I'm not sure how to do that. I'm also not sure how this wall should attach to the rest of the room in order to maintain its sound proofing properties.

There is also another room which is 12x9x12. All the walls are clay bricks but I'm not sure how to proof this room with the current walls as these walls have to stay. I haven't found anything that seems will work like carpet, drapes and sponge, etc.

Can anyone give me some advice.
 
Chewie said:
Greetings, this is most in the section of the forum. I hope I'm not asking stupid questions.

I have a choice of two rooms I can turn into studios.

One is a 12x12x8 feet. This room has three walls of solid concrete. It's a basement but there are other rooms next to it which people rent. The forth wall is wooden with the door. There are plans to remove that wall and put another. From my reading it seems that the double stud construction is a good plan. But the door has to go in it and I'm not sure how to do that. I'm also not sure how this wall should attach to the rest of the room in order to maintain its sound proofing properties.

There is also another room which is 12x9x12. All the walls are clay bricks but I'm not sure how to proof this room with the current walls as these walls have to stay. I haven't found anything that seems will work like carpet, drapes and sponge, etc.

Can anyone give me some advice.
Click to expand...

The 12x9x12 room will be better. Square rooms are best avoided. Rigid fibreglass is what you want for acoustic treatment.

Read this arcticle 20 times and you will get a better understanding.

Here: http://www.ethanwiner.com/acoustics.html
 
That was an INCREDIBLE article!!!

However, I need information more on soundproofing and the article specifically states that sound isolation is beyond the scope of the article.
 
Chewie said:
Wow! Thanks a whole lot!!
Click to expand...
You're welcome!
Honestly, read that arcticle, particulary about the room treatments and setting up a room. I have learnt so much from that arcticle, it will take quite a few reads for the information to really sink in....but it will! :)
 
Chewie said:
That was an INCREDIBLE article!!!

However, I need information more on soundproofing and the article specifically states that sound isolation is beyond the scope of the article.
Click to expand...

OK, Try using the search function in this forum to bring up previous threads on this subject, I'm sure they have been covered before!
 
Actually, either room will be hard to make sound good - acoustics doesn't care which dimension is which, BOTH of those rooms are "square" since two dimensions are equal.

If you wanna know about sound ISOLATION, try googling the phrase mass-air-mass... Steve
 
Yup; the BBC has papers on small rooms, one of which (don't remember) talks about setting up VO booths and comments that if you have the ceiling height, the other two dim's can be smaller because it doesn't matter which dimension is longer, the modes of the space remain the same whether you "stand it on end" or not. They were trying to save floor space so made the vertical dimension the longer one of the three... Steve
 
knightfly said:
Yup; the BBC has papers on small rooms, one of which (don't remember) talks about setting up VO booths and comments that if you have the ceiling height, the other two dim's can be smaller because it doesn't matter which dimension is longer, the modes of the space remain the same whether you "stand it on end" or not. They were trying to save floor space so made the vertical dimension the longer one of the three... Steve
Click to expand...

You learn something everyday! :)
 
Isolation of an already existing structure that was not designed with isolation in mind is always difficult. Start with a good solid core exterior door and seals. Caulk around all joints at the floor under the trim. 'Butter' the back of all electrical boxes.

If you're serious, also consider a 2nd layer of drywall with Green Glue between and building 'plugs' for any windows.

Bryan
 
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