My portable vocal booth plans

Garak

New member
Here is a sketch of the parts for a vocal booth I'm planing on building.

The lighter brown/orange is 2"x4" or 2"x2" the dark is OSB or MDF. I'm trying to make this as cheeply as posiable. Maybe as low as $200. Not including the window and door. I think I'm going to make the window from the doors from a department store display box. The stuff is designed to be fairly tough and I'm getting it for free :)

The full thing is going to be moduler so I can take it apart and move it later because right now I have no place to build a studio but my aunt is letting me use her basement to build and store the booth untill I can find a place to use.

The idea is for everything to just screw and bolt together like the booths from vocalbooth.com and whisper room.

I might even cover it in carpet to make it look as cool as the ones you can buy.

Is there anything out there that I can put between all the joints to seal between the sheeting and the lumber? Would weather stripping or something simlar work? I can't really use glue because that would make it hard to take a part.

Anyone built anything like this before?

Any comments? Ideas? Suggestions? Please post!

Bah what happed to the attachment.... ok lets try an img... ok that didn't work, lets just go with the link :P
http://garak.dyndns.org/forum/upload/Isobooth.jpg
 
Is there anything out there that I can put between all the joints to seal between the sheeting and the lumber? Would weather stripping or something simlar work? I can't really use glue because that would make it hard to take a part

I would think a decent rubber weather strip clamped down tight would work OK.

I am assuming you will be building the 4 walls as separate units and bolting them together at the corners. i.e. mid wall has no joints. So, you should glue and caulk where the MDF and 2x stock are connected together, just weather strip between the 2x's where they join.

If you go with carpeting the outside, you could try making the carpet overlap the joints and velcro down or otherwise glue/staple it.

How often do you expect to be taking it apart?

Cheers
Kevin.
 
Yes the 4 walls are seperate and will be glued and screwed together. Where I need to make a good seal is in the corners where the walls meet each other and where the walls meet the floor and roof.

Take a look at the drawing below on how I'm going to join the corners. The purple part is a 2"x2" that is screwed and glued to the top wall. I'm thinking of putting somekind of seal between the purple 2"x2" and the brown one and where the sheeting meets the other wall and all that will be bolted tight together.

http://garak.dyndns.org/forum/upload/walljoin.jpg
 
I should rephrase that, The studs and the sheeting that make up the walls will be glued and screwed together, the walls will be bolted together.

In the for seeable future twice I will have to take it apart. Its going to be built in my aunts basement where it will be setup untill may or june when we will be moving it in to some space we are going to rent in the industrial park for the summer to record my friends band's CD. After that it will be taken apark again and put somewhere in storage until next summer when I have money to rent somewhere to put it again.
 
Garak said:
I should rephrase that, The studs and the sheeting that make up the walls will be glued and screwed together, the walls will be bolted together.

In the for seeable future twice I will have to take it apart. Its going to be built in my aunts basement where it will be setup untill may or june when we will be moving it in to some space we are going to rent in the industrial park for the summer to record my friends band's CD. After that it will be taken apark again and put somewhere in storage until next summer when I have money to rent somewhere to put it again.

If you are looking to make a seal while bolting the walls together, between the two walls put a strip of thin rubber or foam, then bolt them together. This will make the seal for you. Once its installed in its permanent location, you can caulk or use silicon it for a better seal.

Think "gasket". In fact, if you work in the automotive industry, ordinary gasket paper would also work, if you have access to it.
 
ordinary gasket paper would also work, if you have access to it.

Ordinary gasket paper works well between two machined surfaces. I'm not sure it would work so well between two 2x's... I'd stick with the rubber seal.

Kevin.
 
longsoughtfor said:


Ordinary gasket paper works well between two machined surfaces. I'm not sure it would work so well between two 2x's... I'd stick with the rubber seal.

Kevin.

Felpro does because its typically a little thicker - assuming the 2x4's are straight. Of course not all 2x4's are straight... but thats another story. Every 2x4 I've purchased from home depot requires me to toss aside about 6-7 of them as rejects. I usually leave a nice large pile on the floor :)
 
I hear you about the Home Depot 2x4's man... I just don't get that stuff from them any more. The local lumber yard is tremendous and most of the time cheaper then HD.


Kevin.
 
Garak - you know, you may be able to get away with putting a decent bead of silicon caulking down on one of the mating surfaces prior to bolting them together... It will seal it but won't keep you from taking it apart at all. It can then be scraped off and done again....

Kevin.
 
>frederic
I think I'm going to buy 2'x2' and rip them down on the table saw so they are strait.

>longsoughtfor
I'm going try that, I know in my old house the windows were cauked shut for the winter and opened in the spring. So it should work fine. But I think I'm going to get some rubber or something to put along the joins before I bolt them together.

Now time to shop around and find the best price on the sheeting. Once I got that I can start on construction. :)
 
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