RICK FITZPATRICK
New member
I know a hollow core door is of no use in a studio, except as this. I used one for my first console deck. I bet a lot of peole have a used one laying around. And a 8' 2 x 6. In fact, for those of you who are looking for a cheap desk, heres a proven idea. Cheap too. I still use the concept in my present set up. Only more elaborate. Its only for small bedroom size spaces, where space is at a premium. It is simply a hollow core door(any width up to 36", still on hinges, fastened to a 2x6 the length of the door(like a door jamb), which is in turn, fastened to (2) 2'x 6" x 8"L spacer blocks(cut from the 8 footer, that are fastend to wall studs with (2)countersunk lag bolts. Once the console positition determined, mark a level line on the wall, the length of the door, 44" from the floor. Usually 80" long(door length), then mark a line perpendicular to the level line, where the ends of the door in a horizontal position will be. Imagine a hinged drafting board on the wall. Thats exactly where this came from. Somewhere between these marks will be 3 or 4 studs. Find the centerline of the 2 outermost studs and mark a plumb center line.(should be about 64" between.(16" o.c. studs) Find the middle of the blocks which is 4" from the ends(8" long).Mark a centerline across the face Drill and countersink(2) holes 3/4" from the edge, on the centerline,for (2) 5/16" lag bolts(5/16"pilot hole with a 1"d countersink 1/2" deep. Drill the countersink first with a spade bit. Then drill the pilot holes. Align the centerline of the blocks with the stud centers, and the top edge of the block aligned with the level line. Predrill through the block holes, into the sheetrock and stud, a 3/16" pilot hole, about 2" deep.
Now fasten the blocks to the wall with (2) 3 1/2" long 5/16" lagbolts each block, with 5/16" washers, 1" dia. Now, these blocks provide 2 things. A mounting surface for 80" long 2 x 6, and a cable gap. Now to align it to the blocks. Since this mounting plate(jamb) is the length of the door, cut the remaining 2 x 6 to length, and align one end to the marks on the wall indicating the end of the door, and the top edge of this plate, to the top edge of the 2 blocks. Have someone help hold it. Mark a plumb line across the face in line with the center line of the blocks and lags. Lay the plate on a flat surface and mark another set of lines(2), 2" to each side of the alignment line. Measure in from each edge 3/4" on each of the 2 outside lines, and drill a 3/16" pilot hole. Thats 4 holes at each block for mounting the plate to the blocks.
Heres where I differ from most builders. Any thing I fasten together with screws, I do not use Phillip head screws. They suck. I use square head recess screws which are sheetrook screws with a #1 or #2 square head recess. I buy them in bulk at Ace, and since I build a lot of different things, keep about a pound of each size in the shop. They are fantastic. No stripping. Drives right in. You'll like them. Buy a #1 and #2 square head driver bit, and use a cordless drill. Works fantastic.
Ok, now, realign the plate as before, haveing help to hold it. Now you can simply drive some 3" #2 or 3 screws directly into the blocks, through the plate. 4 at ea. block.
Now to mount the door. Imagine the plate is simply a door jamb mounted to the blocks. Position the door face against the wall as if it were hanging by the hinges, on the plate(jamb), and align the door ends with the plate ends. Be sure to orient the hinge pins inwards towards the wall.Then simply raise the door to the bottom edge of the plate, untill the hinge knuckles are up against the bottom of the plate. Wedge or hold in place. Fold the hinges up against the face of the plate, drive in 3 hinge screws per hinge, and voila! A fold down console desk! Now comes the fun. Raise the door up to an angle you are comfortable with. Put a chair, or board under it to keep it from falling. Now imagine, fastening a 2 x 4 cut to the proper angle, as a leg at ea. end, but mounted at an angle from the front edge of the door, down to the floor wall juncture.
I simply mounted a hinge to the end of the 2 x 4 at the door, and fastend it to both, on the under side face of the door.. Once in position, this creates a brace to the floor and wall, and upon removal of the hinge pin, allows folding the door downward to the wall.
Now comes the interesting part. Imagine, now the bottom door face is flush with the bottom edge of the plate when in folded up position. You now have a surface(the top edge of the plate, to fasten a 3/4" mdf or plywood shelf. I used a 12" wide hollow core folding door! Simply pre drill pilot holes along one edge, 3/4" from the edge, 6" on center. This will take about 12 or 13 screws, length determined by shelf thickness. Imagine if you will, if you position the rear edge of the shelf, on top of the plate, flush with the plate ends, and flush with the rear face of the plate(facing the blocks and wall) drive screws through the pilot holes into the centerline of the plate edge. Voila! You now have a adjustable/fold down console with a CANTILEVERED monitor shelf. Works fantastic. My present shelf, is only 3/4" black MDF, and supports 2 Absolute Zero audio monitors, 2 Commodore Video monitors(old computer monitors that work fantastic as video monitors), and 2 computor monitors. Thats how strong it is. Thats why all the screws along the edge of the shelf. One more thing, since the edge of the shelf is aligned with the rear face of the plate(jamb) you now have a 1 1/2" wide gap, to run cables from the shelf equipment, between the wall and plate, and under the door. Put in a cabinet undernieth for patchbays etc. Glue a piece of cheap commercial carpet, about 6" wider than the door. Wrap it around the front edge of the door, and staple it undernieth. Voila!
I've used various incarnations of this for years. Its not the best solution, but it works, especially if you have more time than money like me! And little space.Sit your monitors on mouse pads on the shelf. Not perfect. Not pro. Just cheap. Works great though. Well, sorry for the long idea. Hope it helps someone. It did me.
cheers, fitz
Now fasten the blocks to the wall with (2) 3 1/2" long 5/16" lagbolts each block, with 5/16" washers, 1" dia. Now, these blocks provide 2 things. A mounting surface for 80" long 2 x 6, and a cable gap. Now to align it to the blocks. Since this mounting plate(jamb) is the length of the door, cut the remaining 2 x 6 to length, and align one end to the marks on the wall indicating the end of the door, and the top edge of this plate, to the top edge of the 2 blocks. Have someone help hold it. Mark a plumb line across the face in line with the center line of the blocks and lags. Lay the plate on a flat surface and mark another set of lines(2), 2" to each side of the alignment line. Measure in from each edge 3/4" on each of the 2 outside lines, and drill a 3/16" pilot hole. Thats 4 holes at each block for mounting the plate to the blocks.
Heres where I differ from most builders. Any thing I fasten together with screws, I do not use Phillip head screws. They suck. I use square head recess screws which are sheetrook screws with a #1 or #2 square head recess. I buy them in bulk at Ace, and since I build a lot of different things, keep about a pound of each size in the shop. They are fantastic. No stripping. Drives right in. You'll like them. Buy a #1 and #2 square head driver bit, and use a cordless drill. Works fantastic.
Ok, now, realign the plate as before, haveing help to hold it. Now you can simply drive some 3" #2 or 3 screws directly into the blocks, through the plate. 4 at ea. block.
Now to mount the door. Imagine the plate is simply a door jamb mounted to the blocks. Position the door face against the wall as if it were hanging by the hinges, on the plate(jamb), and align the door ends with the plate ends. Be sure to orient the hinge pins inwards towards the wall.Then simply raise the door to the bottom edge of the plate, untill the hinge knuckles are up against the bottom of the plate. Wedge or hold in place. Fold the hinges up against the face of the plate, drive in 3 hinge screws per hinge, and voila! A fold down console desk! Now comes the fun. Raise the door up to an angle you are comfortable with. Put a chair, or board under it to keep it from falling. Now imagine, fastening a 2 x 4 cut to the proper angle, as a leg at ea. end, but mounted at an angle from the front edge of the door, down to the floor wall juncture.
I simply mounted a hinge to the end of the 2 x 4 at the door, and fastend it to both, on the under side face of the door.. Once in position, this creates a brace to the floor and wall, and upon removal of the hinge pin, allows folding the door downward to the wall.
Now comes the interesting part. Imagine, now the bottom door face is flush with the bottom edge of the plate when in folded up position. You now have a surface(the top edge of the plate, to fasten a 3/4" mdf or plywood shelf. I used a 12" wide hollow core folding door! Simply pre drill pilot holes along one edge, 3/4" from the edge, 6" on center. This will take about 12 or 13 screws, length determined by shelf thickness. Imagine if you will, if you position the rear edge of the shelf, on top of the plate, flush with the plate ends, and flush with the rear face of the plate(facing the blocks and wall) drive screws through the pilot holes into the centerline of the plate edge. Voila! You now have a adjustable/fold down console with a CANTILEVERED monitor shelf. Works fantastic. My present shelf, is only 3/4" black MDF, and supports 2 Absolute Zero audio monitors, 2 Commodore Video monitors(old computer monitors that work fantastic as video monitors), and 2 computor monitors. Thats how strong it is. Thats why all the screws along the edge of the shelf. One more thing, since the edge of the shelf is aligned with the rear face of the plate(jamb) you now have a 1 1/2" wide gap, to run cables from the shelf equipment, between the wall and plate, and under the door. Put in a cabinet undernieth for patchbays etc. Glue a piece of cheap commercial carpet, about 6" wider than the door. Wrap it around the front edge of the door, and staple it undernieth. Voila!
I've used various incarnations of this for years. Its not the best solution, but it works, especially if you have more time than money like me! And little space.Sit your monitors on mouse pads on the shelf. Not perfect. Not pro. Just cheap. Works great though. Well, sorry for the long idea. Hope it helps someone. It did me.
cheers, fitz
But it works for me. I'll post a current picture too. BTW, my current shelf was machined on a CNC for the Zero's and video monitors, but you can do it with a router/template. But I would bet that if you did this on a wall adjacent to another room, you woud get direct mechanical sound transmission to the next room which negates it if you monitor loud. I partially filled in a 3' x 6' window on with a support frame for the shelf mount(blocks and plate) and ran the shelf the complete length of the room. Thats so the cable trough under the shelf dies into wall mounted cable troughs for my snakes. Works for me. But this is an exterior stucco wall and it didn't matter. Thats why I did it. Its certainly not what I would do for my "real" design.