Basement studio Ideas (with Pics!)

Go to my website and look at what was done in my basement room.
We got rid of cheap paneling and went with double layer drywall.
Interior walls are 9 inches thick.
Insullation is R-24.
Yours is looking good so far!
 
Kjv1993 said:
What did you use to make your walls 9 inches thick? and how effective was 2 layers of drywall?
Click to expand...
We just added another layer framing to the wall frames already there.
The 2-layers of drywall along with the R-24 insullation works really nice, especially on the ceiling as it keeps the upstairs noise pretty much upstairs.
It's not perfect but it is light-years better than the drop-ceiling I had before.
 
homestudioguy said:
We just added another layer framing to the wall frames already there.
The 2-layers of drywall along with the R-24 insullation works really nice, especially on the ceiling as it keeps the upstairs noise pretty much upstairs.
It's not perfect but it is light-years better than the drop-ceiling I had before.
Click to expand...

so basically if I frame a new room and put up 2 layers of drywall (like I planned on doing) I will have near perfect isolation? Thanks for the help btw
 
Kjv1993 said:
so basically if I frame a new room and put up 2 layers of drywall (like I planned on doing) I will have near perfect isolation? Thanks for the help btw
Click to expand...
I won't say near perfect Isolation but it should be pretty darn good.
I don't think you need double layer drywall against the block walls that are underground as nothing should be coming in from the dirt ;).
However, on internal walls, double drywall on the studio side and non-studio side of those wall will really help.
Put some R-30 in there too!
Check out this link!!: http://www.soundproofing101.com/soundproofing_2.htm
 
Well I just got done hanging the second layer of drywall on the ceiling. And next is the framing! But I have a question about that:
We will be framing the walls completely independent from the ceiling by screwing kickers to the brick wall and screwing the stud onto that. But The ceiling will be an issue because there is no room for 2x6's for the new inside joists. And if we use just 2x4's for the new ceiling, my dad says it will defiantly sag from 2 layers of drywall. So Would it affect the soundproofing to have a few big screws right in the middle to support the inside joists screwed into the original joists? See diagram:
bi8pk9.jpg


If these support screws would affect the soundproofing, what other way could I support the ceiling without a support beam.

And BTW if I do use the support screws, there will still be a small air gap to keep the two ceilings as separate as possible.
Thanks Alot
 
Sound will flank thru the screws. How much? IDK.... Maybe not enough to care. Why can't you use more 2x4's? 2x4's are cheap, you could totally double or even triple up on them for practically nothing..

Can you put these joists so that they go inside the cavities of the old joists? Then ceiling level could be about the same as just screwing drywall into the joists you have.. Your pic looks like the top of the 2x4's are under the bottom of the joists. Put em in between, so that the bottom of your 2x4's are like 1" below the bottom of your joists. You'd gain some extra headroom and still keep your total isolation. And you could prolly go with 2x6's then too.
 
suprstar said:
Can you put these joists so that they go inside the cavities of the old joists?
Click to expand...

That would work except that there is insulation covered up with 2 layers of drywall in the existing joist space.
What if I used a few sound isolation clips down the middle to support the new ceiling that way there is no direct contact?
 
M1Fanatic said:
What is the free span of the room and what is your ceiling height up to the bottom of the old ceiling?
Click to expand...

From the floor to the double drywall ceiling is 83 inches. And the sq footage of the room is 76.65 sq feet. (10.5'' x 7.3'') if that's what you mean by free span.
Thanks for the replys!
 
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