Thanks all for everything so far...
dementedchord:
mid -low end gear use mid-low end parts... duh??? so if we're talking bout this kinda gear then any electrolytic that's in the 15 yr range is suspect... especialy if it has gone sometime without being used... yes lack of use can be VERY bad for electrolytics... do you find that adjacent channels dont sound reasonably alike???? that's a cap problem... have you cleaned the controlls but still find it's scratchy sounding??? often that's coupling caps...
I'm asking this question in regard to any of my older Tascam gear: 58-OB (RC-50 and 51 remotes too), 48-OB, M520, PE-40, MX-80, RS-20B. Some of it...most of it, is surely about 25 years old at this point. Hmm....
Dr ZEE:
Would not it be great if there was such thing as a free of 'inability to not inflict harm' cap?
fisheric:
if you can do general soldering than you should be able take care of the project in a couple hours, depending on the number of caps.
Also you ONLY have to change electrolytic caps, dont replace all the small ceramic disc and others. unless you dig that sorta thing.
I'm pretty comfortable with a soldering iron, but there's a lot of 25 year old gear in my studio...
Can't really afford the time to go through it all, so I guess I'm just really wanting to know the best route to take that can hone me in on the problem gear and prevent damage.
Everybody, maybe this would be a better thread for the DIY forum...
I think it is time for a new soldering iron. The one I use is a simple 15/30W iron, but I often feel like I wish it had a setting in between.
The 30W setting tends to be a bit much...have to be quick to keep stuff from scorching, but the 15W often doesn't have enough heat to get the solder liquefied enough to wick into the joint. Suggestions?
Just so you all know, my experience soldering components on a PCB is pretty limited. Done quite a bit of cabling, but just minor repairs to my 58 and my MX-80, and some mods to an A & H GL3300.