i LOVE you man.pohaku said:Update -- because there's more, of course
1969 Martin 0-16NY (set up with Thomastik-Infeld Plectrum strings)
1965 Martin D-28
1961 Martin 0-18 (an absolutely great recording guitar)
1930's Martin 2-17 (Martin's first guitar built for steel strings - twangy)
1966 Gibson J-45 (PUTW in this one)
1966 Gibson B-25 (essentially a small bodied J-45 - records real well - I have a Sunrise in this one)
1983 Les Paul Standard (paid $300 for this one out of the newspaper - red metal flake - SD Antiquity Pickups and recapped so the tone pots actually work and the volume really rolls off)
1993 Paul Reed Smith Custom 24 (10 top with birds)
1967 Gibson Byrdland (short scale neck which is great since I have small hands - set up with flatwounds, but I still can't play jazz worth a damn)
2003 Leach Cremona (OM size)
1991 Godin Acousticaster (a complete impulse buy after seeing Roseanne Cash's band)
Rick Turner RB-4 Bass (I'm deluding myself that I can actually play this effectively - but it's fun)
Yamaha FG-450S (D-28 knockoff)
LaSiDo parlor size guitar (campfire beater)
Gibson 1917 Style A mandolin
Gibson 1959 F-12 mandolin
Martin 50s T-15 Tiple (kind of like a 12 string uke)
Magnatone lap steel (in mother-of-toilet-seat, of course)
Martin style 0M uke (2)
Martin style 1M uke
Martin style 2M uke
Martin style 3M uke
Gibson T-1 tenor uke
Gretsch uke
That's 24...................pohaku said:Update -- because there's more, of course
1969 Martin 0-16NY (set up with Thomastik-Infeld Plectrum strings)
1965 Martin D-28
1961 Martin 0-18 (an absolutely great recording guitar)
1930's Martin 2-17 (Martin's first guitar built for steel strings - twangy)
1966 Gibson J-45 (PUTW in this one)
1966 Gibson B-25 (essentially a small bodied J-45 - records real well - I have a Sunrise in this one)
1983 Les Paul Standard (paid $300 for this one out of the newspaper - red metal flake - SD Antiquity Pickups and recapped so the tone pots actually work and the volume really rolls off)
1993 Paul Reed Smith Custom 24 (10 top with birds)
1967 Gibson Byrdland (short scale neck which is great since I have small hands - set up with flatwounds, but I still can't play jazz worth a damn)
2003 Leach Cremona (OM size)
1991 Godin Acousticaster (a complete impulse buy after seeing Roseanne Cash's band)
Rick Turner RB-4 Bass (I'm deluding myself that I can actually play this effectively - but it's fun)
Yamaha FG-450S (D-28 knockoff)
LaSiDo parlor size guitar (campfire beater)
Gibson 1917 Style A mandolin
Gibson 1959 F-12 mandolin
Martin 50s T-15 Tiple (kind of like a 12 string uke)
Magnatone lap steel (in mother-of-toilet-seat, of course)
Martin style 0M uke (2)
Martin style 1M uke
Martin style 2M uke
Martin style 3M uke
Gibson T-1 tenor uke
Gretsch uke
pohaku said:Here's some pics of the ukes and mandos. I probably could use a 12 step program.
pohaku said:It's hard to know what would be available in Ireland. There are lots of good small luthier Hawaiian ukes, but I suspect they would be pretty scarce where you are. If you can find a used Kamaka uke, that would be a good purchase. They are probably the largest and oldest current Hawaiian manufacturer, but their prices have gone up as well. Sometimes used ones pop up reasonably though. Mass market ukes that are decent include the Fluke (get the tenor size, not the Flea), Bushman, and Applause. Another used brand that is worth looking for is Favilla. In particular, their baritone ukes are very nice.
I got my daughter a Fluke and it plays and sounds amazingly good for the price. It is a plastic body, wood top instrument in a non-traditional shape, but plays nicely. If you can get the upgraded version with metal frets, that would allow you to use metal wrapped strings which sound better. The basic version has plastic frets and metal wrapped strings will trash the frets.
If you have a choice, you might prefer getting a tenor or at least a concert size uke rather than the standard soprano size. Better intonation and easier to play.
pohaku said:Typically you will find friction tuners in older used ukes. All of the Martin and Gibson ukes (which are the best two brands of vintage ukes) are friction tuners. I wouldn't make a decision on a uke based on the tuners. Frankly, I'd rather they put more money in the body and the neck than the tuners. The Fluke has friction tuners. I've got no complaints. The neck on the Fluke is wood as well as the top. They also make an electric model which rocks, but is pricey. The Fluke is actually just a bit bigger than a concert and just smaller than a tenor. Ooops, I see thay also now make a tenor size Fluke as well. So you would have your choice. I'd go with the tenor if it was me.
Be careful if you are considering an older Gretsch and can't play it first. They are hit and miss. I have one that looks great, but doesn't tune or play worth a damn. I've played others that were very decent.
Generally, bigger sizes (tenor, baritone, concert) will tune and intonate better. That's not to say that a soprano won't play well, but I've found that the bigger sizes are a bit less fussy. I used to own a Kamaka soprano uke that played wonderfully, but my sister absconded with it.
pohaku said:When you get your uke, consider tuning it Hawaiian style - GCEA - with a low G. This is the same tuning as a soprano, except the G is tuned low. What you do to accomodate this is move the strings around. This is the so called IZ method named after the late Israel Kamakawiwo'ole.
"In the last several years of his life IZ mostly played a 1930s Martin
tenor, tuned GCEA, with a low G. This is the instrument you hear on
most of his solo recordings. The famous IZ way of stringing the uke is
like this:
1) take the C string and put it where the G goes (the thickest string)
2) take the E string and put it where the C goes
3) take the G string and put it where the E goes
4) the A string leave em."
Then tune it GCEA with a low G.
Since the C string (second from top) is normally the thickest string, this is moved to the top. The third string - second thickest is moved up to the second string position and the top string is moved down to replace the third string. The A string on the bottom is left where it is. This essentially moves all the strings around so that they run thickest to thinnest (from top to bottom). Then top string is tuned to low G. This will give you much more bottom end and presence.
Let me know if this is confusing. It seems a little odd until you have a uke and a set of strings in front of you.