Recent content by Walt-Dogg

So I've been sitting on this Mackie 1604-VLZ Pro with some problems with the L/R outs. I don't recall but the last time I used the mixer I think the left output was cutting out. Anywho, is there anything worthwhile in this mixer worth pulling, reworking and rehousing for new purposes? I know the...

I'm looking for the Radial Twin City ABY. The blue one with the single input on the side and with two outputs. Maybe you have one you don't use anymore, or never used? Let me know.

All items are in good working condition unless otherwise noted Sunn Concert Lead, 1976 red knob model - $500 (located in Orange County) Sunn Studio Lead 2x10, original leather cover included - $300 (located in Orange County) Danelectro Fish and Chips 7 band eq, brand new - $20 (located in San...

Yeah, done all that, thoroughly. This is the second assembly that's been on the cab now!

Yes it does have a switch, maybe I should check the solder joints on the switch to the board?

I have a Marshall 1960 cab and the 16 ohm mono input doesn't work, but when the cab is switched to stereo it does. Wat do? The jack plate has already been completely replaced once, I've checked the wiring inside the cab, it's not my amp or my cable and I went over the new plate and reheated and...

So I've been thinking today, instead of selling my Dan Armstrong to buy two guitars (one for C and one for E,Eb and drop D) I could just find a gauge of string in between heavy for C and light for E. For this I have in mind a set of strings that go .10-.50, does anyone have any experience with...

Yeah, I'm glad I got it. The problem seems to have gone away but I'll probably still take it to my tech to be on the safe side.

Yeah, nevermind, I fixed it. Turns out one of the hard wires coming from the bottom of the button was lose.

Yeah, nevermind, I fixed it. Turns out one of the hard wires coming from the bottom of the button was lose.

Ok, so I don't know how, but somehow my thread ended up in the Acoustic forum. Anyways, here's some copy pasta: So I've got a RAT that's getting up there in years and well, it's starting to die it seems. I turn the pedal on get a full signal out of it for a split second then it goes away and I...

So I got the PCB out of the pedal casing and took these pictures. Aside from a bit of corrosion, I'm not quite sure what to check specifically, should I just go through the whole thing reheating all the solder joints? Here's a couple of pictures, one of each side, of the PCB.

Yeah, I've tried, I can't get the PCB out of the case because of the on/off button and the shape of the casing. Maybe my tech can do something with it when I'm back home for the holidays, but I did manage to inspect the pedal while it was open, no loose wires and no components are hanging loose...

Sounds like a plan. Hopefully that solves it so I can get rid of the replacement RAT I got that doesn't sound as natural (serial number is only 5000 higher than the serial on my RAT that needs work and the chip in it was replaced with the chip from a Turbo RAT). EDIT: Working on it now, hit a...

So I've got a RAT that's getting up there in years and well, it's starting to die it seems. I turn the pedal on get a full signal out of it for a split second then it goes away and I then have to pick up pedal by its back at a 45 degree angle and slam/drop it down to the floor or top of my amp...