ugly sounding toms, need help

  • Thread starter Thread starter musicsdarkangel
  • Start date Start date
M

musicsdarkangel

New member
ok, I try to tune them, but all of my toms sound like crap. The snare is fine, along with the 2 cymbals, (hi hat, crash). However, the toms always boing way too much and sound way way too echoey. Its horrible, ugly. Should I tighten them? loosen them? or should i put pillows somewhere?? take the bottoms off?? i have no clue.
 
well

does it mute the drums?? cause i still need em to be full sound.
 
they just get rid of the ring the mic picks up,That ring is what makes the drums sound thin.You will end up with a fuller sound.You wont be taking to much of a gamble for 5 dollars.
 
heh

you have a point =). i think i'll go for it, but it might be risky for my broke ass!
 
I dont think you will be disappointed Best 5 bucks i ever spent
 
You can also try Remo Sound Rings. They're just rings of thin plastic that fit your head size. They stop the ringing nicely. I alway keep one on the snare for recording. But I've taken them off the toms because I just couldn't get a full resonant sound I like to tape. I didn't spend much time to fix it with miking techniques. They do sound good live in the room but it might be my crappy mikes that are the problem. You may like them though. Then again, some adhesive tape around the edge of the head could work for you too.
 
I just spent the last 2 mounths working on a drum sound .I tried all the houshold things people say to try(taped on toilet paper,cotton,duct tape, old cut out heads )they all sucked.I tried the moon gel pads out I got the sound i was looking for as soon as i put them on.They just take the ring out they dont take anything from the drum sound .
 
yea

i've tried all the household crap too, heh. Where can i get the pads?
 
moon gel

I also am a fan of Moon Gel. Although I've used the masking tape/toilet paper method for more years than I can count (well actually about 30) with very good results, the first time I tried Moon Gel I was sold.

You can move it where you need it (with no tape residue), you can cut it to a smaller size (for just the right effect) and you can re-use it (you can even wash it to get rid of the fuzz/dust that any sticky surface eventually grabs).

In the drum shop where I work, we all use it and all recommend it to our customers.

By the way musicsdarkangel - not meaning to state the obvious, but have you considered different heads (yeah I understand you're broke) - but most drums come with crap heads - and most drummers don't think to replace heads often enough.

Some Remo Pinstripes or Evans G2's (my 1st choice) can really improve the sound of average quality toms.
 
yea

actually that's a very good suggestion. My heads to suck, and they're really cheap. Would new heads really help?? How much can a good pair cost?? Yea my drum teacher had gotten me a new snare head, it sounded way better afterwards.

Hmm these moon gel pads, either everyone works and endorses them or they're extremely good =) i think i'll try em out.
 
new heads

If we're talking just the toms (and assuming you have a 12", 13" & 16" - which are standard sizes) you're looking at about $30-$40. Yes new heads will make a big improvement even if the drums are some entry level (Pearl Forum, etc.) kit.

Naturally, this assumes the drums have a good bearing edge and the tuning lugs aren't trashed, etc.
 
mikeh, maybe you could share your professional "work in a drum shop" tricks for improving the bearing edge, and fixing tuning lug problems. ;)

Personally, I find toms that ring out nicely to be a benefit to the sound. I don't like ANYTHING on the head. If the tom is in good shape, newer heads, and tuned properly, it will sound great with no deadening stuff on the heads. But with bad tuning lugs and a bad bearing edge, little can be done to make the drum sound good. Everything you try will be like using toilet paper as a bandaid. It looks bad, and isn't really fixing the real problem.

Ed
 
New Heads

I'm still quite a newbie as far as drumming goes (6 months) but once I replaced the factory heads on my Pearl Forum kit with Remo Pinstripes all the toms sound great. This was not the case when I first purchased and installed the new heads. It has taken me a few months to get everything tuned appropriately but now the whole kit sounds great with no dampening on the heads on any drum.

My suggestion is to:

1: replace the factory heads with some other heads suggested in this thread.
2: play the heck out of your kit and tune during (pre - post) each session.
3: if you are recording your drum tracks then adjust the mic placement to get the sound you like for your recording.
4: go to the drum tuning bible (grrr...I can't find the link here) which I hope someone will post after this.
5: Do not use tape, toilet paper, or other dampening devices unless absolutely necessary or unless you are going for a particular sound. There are folks here who swear by those techinques but as I've yet to encounter a need for them I'll suggest you learn how to properly tune your kit even if it means trying 5 different kinds of heads to achieve the results.

-b
 
Re: New Heads

Bedubs said:
I'm still quite a newbie as far as drumming goes (6 months) but once I replaced the factory heads on my Pearl Forum kit with Remo Pinstripes all the toms sound great. This was not the case when I first purchased and installed the new heads. It has taken me a few months to get everything tuned appropriately but now the whole kit sounds great with no dampening on the heads on any drum.

My suggestion is to:

1: replace the factory heads with some other heads suggested in this thread.
2: play the heck out of your kit and tune during (pre - post) each session.
3: if you are recording your drum tracks then adjust the mic placement to get the sound you like for your recording.
4: go to the drum tuning bible (grrr...I can't find the link here) which I hope someone will post after this.
5: Do not use tape, toilet paper, or other dampening devices unless absolutely necessary or unless you are going for a particular sound. There are folks here who swear by those techinques but as I've yet to encounter a need for them I'll suggest you learn how to properly tune your kit even if it means trying 5 different kinds of heads to achieve the results.

-b

For a guy who has just played 6 months, not bad advice! :)

Been recording drums for years, and all the above applies and is mostly the norm. Yeah, I have polished a bunch of turd drum tracks, but the best ones I have ever mixed needed no screwing with after they were tracked, and they were always tracks with no dampening on the drums themselves. Just a decent engineer who demanded that the drummer tune them up right, and who moved the mics until a great sound happened. Takes a bit of patience to do. But seeing how this is "home recording .com" you all should have all the time in the world to figure this out eh?.....;)

Dampening is usually for those that can't make it happen with tuning and mic placement.

Still waiting for those nice tips on improving bearing edge and tuning lug fixes mikeh!!! :D

Ed
 
All excellent advice, especially the part about putting new heads on. Replacing the heads and tuning them properly before recording makes a HUGE difference.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned which REALLY helps to seat a new head on the bearing edge more quickly: when you put the new head on, take a blow dryer and cook the rim for awhile BEFORE you tighten the lugs down. Get it good and hot for about 10 minutes, then tighten them down. The head will seat better and quicker that way - otherwise it's best to tighten them down as far as possible and leave them that way overnight, so they stretch out. The hair dryer trick works better, though.

And I agree about dampening material - I hate it, and drums sound much better without it, and there's no need for it if the heads are good and well tuned.

Of course a lot of your drum's tone also comes from the way you hit it. Hitting a tom as hard as you can, for example, is not necessarily the way to make it resonate the best, especially in a recording situation. The more experience you gain with playing in the studio, the better you'll come to know what sounds good and what doesn't.

--Lee
 
wow

thank you all so much. I think you guys really answered my question, heh, with many options. I'll try new heads out =) peace.
 
Ed, I haven't been on the site for a couple of days, and did not see your request on "tricks for bearing edges and tuning lugs".

First off, let me state I don't have any "tricks" - if a bearing edge is bad, there is little you can do (other than re-cutting - which requires skills, tools and knowledge that most drummers don't have). If a bearing edge is damaged, it is best to take it to a qualified drum tech (there aren't many) - at a respected drum shop. Trying to re-cut a bearing edge, without proper training can ruin the drums. If it is not a quality set of drums, the cost of re-cutting the edge may not make economic sense. If tuning lugs (or the casings) are damaged, it is best to replace them. However, there are maintenance steps which can be taken.

When I make reference to good bearing edge I mean an edge that is true (no damage, no uneven surfaces, etc.) Different drum makers have different angles on the edge - normally a bearing edge with a shaper angle creates a brighter tone with more attack (since there is less contact with the head). A more rounded bearing edge tends to give less attack but a "warmer tone" (since there is more contact with the head).

When putting on a new head, it is best to wipe off the edge and wipe off the rim (to remove dust, etc. Some drummers like to place a small wax coating on the edge to protect the wood (I however don't believe in this - since uneven wax buildup can compromise the edge). Obviously, don't lay the edge on an surface which can damage it (like a gravel driveway - I saw it happen)

As flier stated in a previous post, when placing the head on the edge it is important to "seat it properly" (which means the head sits evenly on the edge). I've heard drummers endorse the "heated rim" concept but I've never tried it myself. Short of heating the rim, it helps to "spin" the head to allow it to find where it wants to lay on the drum. Start with getting the lugs as tight as you can with finger pressure, then tighten the lugs in a star pattern (like you tighten lugs on a tire) to assure even tension. After the head has enough tension to remove the wringles, press down on the head to make it seat (this means grip the edge). Tighten more and press more until you get the tone you're looking for. I won't attempt to discuss proper tuning since there are many opinions and sources of information.

Regarding care and maintenance on the tuning lugs, keep them lubricated (some people use oil, grease, vasoline, (I like to place my lugs in a small container of a light weight oil - obviously just the threads) - but I've heard of drummers placing the lug casing and all in oil. When tightening the lug into the casing, make sure it goes in straight, if you feel resistance, back off and try again to make sure it catches the thread correctly - if the lugs or casings start to strip you will not get even tuning.

Some lugs tend to loosen more than others (in particular on the snare - where the head is hit in the same place). There are products called "lug locks" (which are simply square plastic tabs that fit on the lug) which can help address that problem.

Proper maintenance, goes a long way in keeping drums (or anything else) in good working order.

For the record, I too like a fairly open (resonant) drum sound, certainly on the toms. and I completely endorse replacing factory heads, and replacing worn heads, to get the best sound possible, and nothing replaces the ability to properly tune drums - but the fact remains that certain drums, rooms, ambient weather conditions, the location of the moon and a hundred other things can create the need for some tyoe of drum "treatment" - and although I hate the sound of drums that are "dampened" to the point of death, a well placed (small) piece of dampening material can be helpful, if not mandatory.
 
Back
Top